johnrx2

Finally get closer to switching from my microtech to the elite 1500, and would like map out and build my harness outside of car over winter.
i have a few questions that will help me get started , I want to keep my set up as much as possible but have it run w Haltech .

1. greddy profec b solenoid , can I use this ? It’s already installed and working just want Haltech to control it not the greddy.
any performance loss vs the MAC solenoid?

2. microtech x4 w hec 17 coils . I’ll attach wiring diagram
These are already neatly tucked under intake and made power before w microtech, just want to drive w Haltech
slso how much dwell can u run?

3. Aem oil pressure sensor , can I tap into this for Haltech and still use for gauge?

4. internal map vs external ,map probably not gonna run more than 29 psi , any need for external?

5. zeitronix ethanol sensor , used for gauge only but want to tap into for Haltech

I’m sure there will be more to come any input on the above is appreciated
thank you
john

johnrx2

dguy

iTrader: (8)

Most of the parts you're describing are just rebadged pieces. Depending on the sensor the AEM is most likely a Honeywell pressure transducer, the MAC valve is a known quantity but last I used a Greddy branded valve in a different setup it was fine, though required a bit of fiddling which may or may not have even been the valve. As far as the ethanol sensor they're almost all the same that I've run across, the zeitronix also looks like the same body as the haltech branded parts.

Can't help you with the coils, never really heard of them. For simplicity in troubleshooting down the line I'd always suggest just using IGN-1a's as they've become the industry standard but I understand where you're coming from with being neatly tucked away.

johnrx2

How would I wire this to my existing plug

johnrx2

Wiring the greddy seems easy enough . Any performance loss spool time by using this vs Mac solenoid

johnrx2

johnrx2

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

You may as well swap over to a 3 port or 4 port MAC solenoid and just use the haltech's boost control functions to run it. The between the wastegate duty mapping options and the optional closed loop boost control, you can tune it to function however best suits the car and your goals. I've had great success with both a 3 port and 4 port when using an elite 1500 and have been able to control boost spot on across a large range of boost levels.

With direct fire ignition on a rotary, it will really depend on the specs of the coils. Do you have the data sheet for them? I googled it and didn't find anything, but I admittedly didn't look very hard.

Yes, you'll just need to pin the white white in that diagram (0-5V positive output) to an open AVI on the haltech and connect the brown wire to one of the ECUs sensor grounds. You'll just need to plug in output calibration of the aem oil pressure sensor in the tune file under the oil pressure function and you'll be set.

I've run both the internal onboard haltech map sensor and external map sensors. For simplicity, I'd just run the internal until you are at a boost level that requires a larger range sensor. You'll have better map sensor resolution with the 3 bar than a larger range sensor, so until you actually need to there isn't much point in running an external.

If you plan on running ethanol, you'll most definitely want to wire the sensor to the haltech. Aside from the +12V power and ground that I'm assuming you already have wired in, you'll just need to pin the white/blue ethanol percentage output wire from the sensor to an open AVI on the haltech and then setup the tune file for flex fuel and add the sensor calibration into the flex fuel function and you should be set.

Skeese

johnrx2

With the greddy solenoid is there any boost control functions I can not use w the Haltech?
also for the zeitronix ethanol is there no sensor ground like there is for the aem oil pressure?
ive got the coil wiring figured out and will be keeping the coil set up

on a FC were is the ac input and output found at ac compressor or by the ac logo on?
thanks

johnrx2

I spent about 5 hours working on my harness yesterday, and it’s about halfway there just a few things holding me back.
1. The harness I have had cut CAS wires so I got one lms efi along w all my sensor clips and sensor s I needed. I’m having trouble de pinning the ecu plug so I can install a new shielded cable. Anyone know what I can use with out buying haltechs 180$ crimped set w depinning tool?

2 . The above zeitronix question. Can I just run the input wire to the White / blue wire ? No sensor ground?

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

To depin a wire you just need to push the white retainer open and pull on the wire. Use a small screwdriver to push the single white tab in, the other side has two white tabs and they’ll pop up when the lock is released. After you do that, the terminals will just pull out.

Yes. Just connect the output from the Zeitronix to an analog input. No ground needed.

johnrx2

Thanks Chris I’ll try it when I get back home,

where are the ac request and outputs ran to?
to compressor or to ac logicon?

johnrx2

Well that was easy , now do I just leave the signal power grounds alone? And just wrap the earth ground w the others?

also my knock sensor shielded wire was cut .
Grey/ green

and grey / black. I have set to front wheel speed? Do I need to replace these ?

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Since when can a Flex sensor connect to an analog input?

dguy

iTrader: (8)

Since its inception as far as I remember, the flex fuel sensor peaks at 150hz.

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

Since the data sheet provided by the OP above specifies this sensor outputs fuel composition as a 0-5V analog signal, it would appropriately be wired to an Analog Voltage Input and the calibration setup accordingly. Wiring it to a Digital Pulsed Input will only allow for the signal to be read as a function of frequency, however the DPIs can still serve as an AVI as it is still technically an analog voltage input and the ECU can be set to monitor the frequency of the pulse and the voltage of the pulse. In this case, the output is characterized as a simple 0-5V analog signal and the sensor does not output a digital pulse so there isn't a reason to burn one of your DPIs when an AVI is all that is required run the sensor.

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Yes I can see that now.

Thanks

johnrx2

i have knocked out a lot on my harness, I’m going to post pics of wiring print out, if any one sees any thing off let me know

still looking for info on
fc ac input /output

for the fuel temp , there is also a option to select fuel composition temp?

my Dpo1 tachometer output ? I’m planning to just connect to the tach out put wire that the microtech is currently connected to? Sound right

anyone know what pin to find drivetrain speed from factory ecu

johnrx2

Pic of tach o

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

I took another look at the data sheet for the zeitronix sensor that you posted and now it makes a more sense. Traditionally, the ethanol content sensor is wired directly to the ECU to a DPI and the sensor outputs a 50-150Hz pulsed signal representative of the ethanol content sensed. That DPI is then dual purposed to also measure fuel temperature by reading the actual voltage level of the pulse. As most of these sensors are all internally the same, that dual purpose signal will be what is coming out of the sensor output. This is where the confusion came from with the others earlier in the thread as this is what they had been expecting to be the case.

BUT...in your case, you are also using the zeitronix ethanol content analyzer (ECA) control box/gauge. The output wire from your sensor runs to an input on the ECA and that box then processes the frequency and voltage level aspects of that signal into 2 separate 0-5V analog outputs that you can then run to your ECU inputs where the 0-5V ethanol percentage is the blue/white wire coming out of the ECA and the fuel temp 0-5V is carried by the blue wire from the ECA box.


So you really have three options here:

1. Forget measuring fuel temp, leave it as-is where the white/blue wire runs the ethanol content signal to the ECU.
2. Run the blue wire that carries the fuel temp signal to an open AVI on the ECU allowing the ECU to now read ethanol content and fuel temp from the ECA box on 2 separate AVIs
3. Scrap the ECA box and run the output from the sensor directly to a DPI on the ECU, which allows fuel temp and ethanol composition one input, but you'd lose the live time display unless you either spliced the output wire to feed both or setup an output from the ECU to feed the signal to the display box.

I don't necessarily believe fuel temp to be something you HAVE to monitor when tuning, its probably good to spot check if you have to but so long as your fuel system isn't horrific then this shouldn't be an issue anyways.

Hope this helps, was the first time I've come across the ECA box setup so it didn't register at first but it makes sense now.

Skeese

dguy

iTrader: (8)

^Just clarifying for him that an AVI can still be used instead of a DPI for that sensor if used to interface directly with the ECU as an AVI can be tasked with slower waveform inputs.

johnrx2

I wAnt to keep the Eca so I can have the live readout . I’m not sure I need the fuel temp but c Ludwig said there’s tuning ways to compensate if the fuel is getting hot. I don’t think I have any issue with the fuel but who knows?


any one for ac ?
or fc traction control?



also looking at my wire allocation print out
am I missing anything

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

Ah, that I didn't know. Do you know if there is a specific limit at which the AVI caps out and you have to go DPI?

I don't think it is necessary to have the fuel temp reading. IF you have reason to suspect that your fuel temps are too high down the road, you can always just swap out the pins and set it for fuel temp to check or measure it directly off the fuel temp wire with a meter. Either way, not critical to have live feed signal to the ECU. I'd just run the single fuel composition output wire from the ECA box to an AVI on the ECU and be done with it.

I can't help you with the A/C stuff as I have little to no experience in that field.

For traction control, you'll need two references. One that tells the ECU how fast the front wheels are spinning and one that reads the rear wheel speed. When the ECU sees that the speed of the rear wheels is exceeding that of the fronts, it knows that you're spinning. You'll definitely need a wheel speed sensor wired to an SPI on one of the front wheels but then you can either use another wheel speed sensor on the rear of use the transmission speed sensor to determine the speed of the rears, either of which would also be wired to an SPI.

Skeese

dguy

iTrader: (8)

^ 1.5khz IIRC.

johnrx2

I found a site that has all wiring diagrams for the fc, I’m hoping to figure out what pin at the ecu is for drivetrain speed,
I will post pics soon

For now
new question
water injection
ill post pic of my cooling mist stage 1 kit diagram .
how would I wire it up to have haltech control, also plan to buy the flow sensor to add safety