ECU Powers On at Wrong Time
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 323
Likes: 37
From: Eugene, Oregon
ECU Powers On at Wrong Time
Hey guys, I'm mid Haltech/single turbo swap and I've been re-wiring a lot of my car and implementing some things back in to the OEM harness and on paper, I thought everything was correct.
To start out. I bought an Elite 1500 and a basic universal wiring harness straight from Haltech that I've trimmed and de-pinned down in to what I need. So I got all of my wiring trimmed and spliced and pulled and I'm waiting on heat shrink before pinning all of the connectors and testing everything completely.
I decided I wanted to update my firmware and load up my base map so I could check to see if the ecu would turn on and also prime my fuel system to check for leaks.
The wires I hooked up were:
A13 (Pink wire on the Haltech) to the 12v ignition output from the key. (OEM Pin 1B)
B11 (Red/White on Haltech) to the 12v constant (OEM Pin 1A)
A10/A11 (Black wire on Haltech) directly to my battery ground
A24 (Black/Yellow wire on Haltech) to the ground side of my fuel pump relay
That's all I had wired up for the test and the FSM and my multimeter confirmed these pins are operating correctly.
Here's my issue.
The ecu turns on and stays on as soon as I turn my battery isolator switch to the ON position and the ecu triggers the fuel pump priming procedure at that time. Nothing changes when I turn my key to the ON position or cycle it in any way. I was assuming the ecu would be triggered to turn on with the key with it being wired this way.
Does anyone have any insight on why the ecu doesn't turn on only when the key is in the ON or START position? Is it possible that the Haltech needs A26 to be wired to the Injector output from the main relay in order to function properly?
Thank you for your time.
To start out. I bought an Elite 1500 and a basic universal wiring harness straight from Haltech that I've trimmed and de-pinned down in to what I need. So I got all of my wiring trimmed and spliced and pulled and I'm waiting on heat shrink before pinning all of the connectors and testing everything completely.
I decided I wanted to update my firmware and load up my base map so I could check to see if the ecu would turn on and also prime my fuel system to check for leaks.
The wires I hooked up were:
A13 (Pink wire on the Haltech) to the 12v ignition output from the key. (OEM Pin 1B)
B11 (Red/White on Haltech) to the 12v constant (OEM Pin 1A)
A10/A11 (Black wire on Haltech) directly to my battery ground
A24 (Black/Yellow wire on Haltech) to the ground side of my fuel pump relay
That's all I had wired up for the test and the FSM and my multimeter confirmed these pins are operating correctly.
Here's my issue.
The ecu turns on and stays on as soon as I turn my battery isolator switch to the ON position and the ecu triggers the fuel pump priming procedure at that time. Nothing changes when I turn my key to the ON position or cycle it in any way. I was assuming the ecu would be triggered to turn on with the key with it being wired this way.
Does anyone have any insight on why the ecu doesn't turn on only when the key is in the ON or START position? Is it possible that the Haltech needs A26 to be wired to the Injector output from the main relay in order to function properly?
Thank you for your time.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 323
Likes: 37
From: Eugene, Oregon
So I fiddled around with it a bit today and have believed to solve my issue. I'll still send my starting map once I bring my laptop back to my house just in case anything needs to be addressed.
All I did was splice A13 in to B11 and then am running that off of OEM pin 1B since that gives battery voltage with the key in the on position so now the ecu does turn on if and only if the key is in the ON position. I'm not using the A25 DPO6 function as I am not running the premium harness/relay box and am incorporating the OEM system if that makes any difference.
All I did was splice A13 in to B11 and then am running that off of OEM pin 1B since that gives battery voltage with the key in the on position so now the ecu does turn on if and only if the key is in the ON position. I'm not using the A25 DPO6 function as I am not running the premium harness/relay box and am incorporating the OEM system if that makes any difference.
So I fiddled around with it a bit today and have believed to solve my issue. I'll still send my starting map once I bring my laptop back to my house just in case anything needs to be addressed.
All I did was splice A13 in to B11 and then am running that off of OEM pin 1B since that gives battery voltage with the key in the on position so now the ecu does turn on if and only if the key is in the ON position. I'm not using the A25 DPO6 function as I am not running the premium harness/relay box and am incorporating the OEM system if that makes any difference.
All I did was splice A13 in to B11 and then am running that off of OEM pin 1B since that gives battery voltage with the key in the on position so now the ecu does turn on if and only if the key is in the ON position. I'm not using the A25 DPO6 function as I am not running the premium harness/relay box and am incorporating the OEM system if that makes any difference.
Man its been quite a while since we talked, but its great to see you're finally getting setup on the haltech over that other. You're going to love tuning on this in comparison. Feel free to hit me up if you need any help with the setup or the software to get you going.
Skeese
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