newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

Ok guys, I have about had it with the e6x and ready to toss it out the window and just get a ps1000. Im having trouble with how the car is running, it has very sluggish throttle and its very hard to cold start and normally floods most of time. When i do get it running for a few seconds and try to apply throttle it wants to fall on its face and stall.
Its a S5 N/A engine with a Large streetport, I've wired it for Ls1 coils and I'm running the injectors staged. I have noticed that it seems like the L2 plug isn't firing like the L1 plug, L1 plug is dry black color and the L2 plug almost looks brand new but shows some signs of spark. These plugs are brand new just installed today.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

RX7(613)

iTrader: (9)

Most likely not the ecu hardware, but map setup.

easiest to start from zero:

1) is timing set property ( lock timing in haltech, turn off injectors, check timing with timming gun )
2) Set TPS ( go to software and zero out TPS )
3) what fuel pressure regulator are you using, if aftermarket is it set correctly at 38 to 42 psi
4) are coils wired correctly
5) injectors wired correctly
7) is CAS wired correctly
6) what injectors are you running and how do you have them setup in the haltech
7) are you sure your leadings are firing
) is your map setup correctly, what are you using for map sensor ( 1 bar, 2 bar ? ) is haltech setup to match sensor
8) start car , test for vaccum leaks ,
9) tune idle and free rev car , does it brake up . do you get a stead RPM signal



I ran a few motors with e6k and e6x with no issues at all. from 150 hp NAs to 400 hp turbos. It does the job well



thats a start above.

you mentioned looks like plugs are not firing, I would test all four. either against the car chassi or with a spark tester.

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

Im running LS1 coils packs with the leading coil packs wired for wasted spark.
I reset the TPS and calibrated it
Not running a fuel pressure regulator because I'm running on the stock fuel pump
I have both leading coils wired to ING 1 light green lead and T1 wired to W/B lead and T2 wired to blue lead
Injectors are wired Primary 1 to Inj-1 light blue lead, Primary 2 to Inj-2 Blue/red lead , Secondary 1 to Green/Red lead, and Secondary 2 to Pink lead
All four injectors are 550cc
Leadings are firing according to timing gun
Im not sure about the map settings but i think I'm the map sensor that i was provided with the haltech unit is a 3-Bar
When i did get the car started today it runs perfect at around the 1200rpm and up range but starts to shake and rattle you to death under that. Im thinking its running to rich right?

RX7(613)

iTrader: (9)

Have you checked timing is set right ? . locked in correctly.

(you can lock the cas, and make the adjustments in the software to get it to match what ever you are checking 5 or 20 ATDC if stock pulley, or what -10 0 10 20 if aftermarket main pulley ) .

what software are you using with the e6x. halwin 1.26 or dos software

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

The timing is being a pain to check cause I'm having a hard time getting it to idle long enough to get a timing light on it but i am aware of the lock timing feature, I'm using halwin 1.26 software. I have my windows xp computer that has my map on it if you would like me to send it to you.

RX7(613)

iTrader: (9)

you can check timing with the car not running .


What pulley do you have ? stock or RB aluminum style.

If stock , use the 5 degrees after top dead center ( ATDC )

Go to software, turn off injectors. ( now car will crank, fire plugs but not run ) .

go to timming options, lock timming at 5 degrees ATDC

check timing with both leadings. This will tell you if you are getting spark and if the haltech is synced correctly.



http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wack...04790.jpg.html

This would be the first step before any tuning .

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

Im running the stock one, I will give it a go tomorrow after work and tell you how it goes!

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

Ok, so I re stabbed CAS (HITman way) and doubled checked my trigger wires and settings on the Haltech. Dis-abled the injectors and my two leading coils are firing spot on with 5 degree mark on pulley.
She still runs the same no change in anything. But I have noticed if I change Trim Control under Input/Output settings Nothing to Fuel (coarse) It starts easier and runs very smooth under light throttle. Thats with my trim box maxed out as well.

RX7(613)

iTrader: (9)

Now that we know timming is syncd , have you set the TPS ?

this would be next step.

then Checking MAP sensor you have installed, and what map sensor you have set in halwin.

( i think i asked before, yours is using an external map sensor correct ? and not a nipple on the e6x box ? )

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

I have synced TPS and the MAP Sensor is a 3 Bar. Yes I have an external one mounted with vacuum line, but my haltech also has a nipple on the opposite side where the harness connects.

Don't tell me this is an internal MAP sensor and has been my problem all along!

RX7(613)

iTrader: (9)

So, by the sounds of it , your haltech has the 2.5 internal map sensor as well.

what is your e6x calibration using ? the 2.5 bar or 3 bar .

As your non turbo. I would go with the 2.5 bar .

reroute the vaccum line to the ecu, then go to software and set to 2.5 bar and retune idle once the car is warm. (


Also what are you using for your vaccum source, you have to insure it sees vaccum .

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

Ok ill get to it as soon as the rain lets up tomorrow.

I have the settings set for 3 bar and I'm using the bottom nipple on the upper intake above where the throttle cable hooks up to the throttle body.

Should I re-route the internal one to where the stock pressure sensor fed from?

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

Im not sure if i answered your question about the MAP calibration though, I wasn't aware there was a calibration for the MAP. If thats what you were asking.

RX7(613)

iTrader: (9)

by calibration I was askign about the one you are trying to run the car.

hmm it should of not made a difference if you were set at 3 bar and running a 3 bar. But either way . I would run the line to the ECU nipple, and in the software select 2.5 bar. turn ignition off and back on to make change in e6x.


now we have narroed down the the following:

Timming syncd ( you have since unlocked timming correct ? )
leading plugs verfied to make sure they are both firing
TPS set
Map sensor running the internal 2.5 bar and your calibration also using 2.5 bar
Now checked your map, to make sure it is setup correctly to run a 13B .

Now lets move on the map signal, I dont remember too well my 6 port motors, so I would start the car, and look at the map signal, does it move around. it should start at 0, then once running go into negatives.


Is the above happening. Then your map signal is seeing vacuum

Once above is done, its time to warm up car and try to make it idle and check for vacuum leaks.
you can google the many methods ( WD40, propane gas, smoke, etc ) .

IF you change in idle while checking for vacuum leaks, move onto tuning.

What leading plugs do you have ?, as your non turbo, I would suggest running 7s and 9s.

try to rev car up to 3K and let it fall, then 5 k and let it fall, can it keep idle ? .

.

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

Went ahead and switched over the internal MAP sensor. Switched the settings in the computer to the internal 2.5MAPSENSOR

Once I got it started I noticed in the Engine Data that the MAP was only seeing about -0.2 pressure while idling and about -0.9 while under throttle.

Now like I mentioned above, in the Input/Output page under settings the car will only run while the trim control is set to Fuel (Coarse) and the trim **** set to 50%

After I go it started I adjusted the screw on the top of the throttle body and she idled at a very smooth 850ish, I revved up the engine to notice that it wanted to stall, so I let out the throttle and tried it very slowly and got it to rev up to 3k and released the throttle, and it did keep idle!

I forgot to check the spark plugs for their numbers I apologize about that. But after it warmed up, it was very hard to keep it running. It wanted to idle at a very low 550rpm and quickly die. When I would try to apply throttle it wanted to break up and not throttle up.

I tried checking for vacuum leaks but it was starting to get dark on me, but the map sensor readings seem very off to me. -0.2 and -0.9 just not enough negative pressure leading me to believe i have a vacuum leak

RX7(613)

iTrader: (9)

It seems we are moving forward. You shouldnt be tuning with the input/output fuel trim at this moment.

you should be working off the fuel map.

It sounds like your car either is not getting enough fuel, or is getting too much.

it seems to run right , while it is warming up due to probably the coolant compensation map adding fuel. Once it is at running temperature and your comp map is not adding fuel. It is rough.

Try adding 10% fuel accross the board.

What map are you using ? a turbo based map, ( most of these take into consideration having 550 primaries ) , and if you are running a 6 port you probably have 460cc primaries. so youll need to add 15to 20% fuel accross the board

RX7(613)

iTrader: (9)

Maybe I missed it, can you list your full mods list.


Engine year, porting, injector sizes, fuel pump, rotor compression (S4/S5 turbo , non turbo, etc ) .
exhaust, intake. flywheel.

and what units do you have your map set to . kpi or psi. im assuming PSI due to the readings you have. it is moving a little so , this is good. Have you driven on the highway. with no load you should see more along -4 to 0 psi with load.

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

Its a 1990 6-port engine (do not have the VDI or 6-Port solenoids wired in yet), large pineapple racing street port, 550cc injectors primaries and secondaries, stock fuel pump, S5 rotors, racing beat collected header going into a racing beat silencer to a apexi N1 dual system, stock s5 intake, and stock flywheel.

Well i have the unit of measure on the Haltech set to Imperial, not Metric. No i have not drove it. Every time I try to put a load on it, it wants to stall.

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

I am also using the stock map from haltech. The only things that i have changed are just the basic things fuel and ignition. Have not touched maps yet.

RX7(613)

iTrader: (9)

hmm it should be pretty close, unless your coils are not setup right, but you said both leadings are firing.

can you add 15% fuel accross the board. go into table mode for fuel map, select all . up by 10% .


can you post screen shots of your ignition setup. aka wasted spark, direct fire. did you set it up to run the LS coils .

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

To the best of my knowledge I have the coils setup correctly.
Direct fire
Constant Charge/Charge Time 5.5ms

And yes the leading plugs are firing

RX7(613)

iTrader: (9)

Are your coils setup as such:

LS1 coils are Output Type: Constant Charge, Coil Charge Time: 5ms, Spark Output Edge: Falling.



add 15 % fuel to the map, and let us know how it goes.

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

Yes, they are set up as such

Chickenman35

Now, I'm not that familiar with Mazda FI, but I've never seen a Fuel Injected engine that can run without a Fuel Pressure regulator. Doesn't matter if pump is stock or not. Fuel Pressure has to be precisely regulated and FI fuel pumps don't have built in regulators.

Edit: Just checked Parts Catalog for a 91 FC, and Mazda Fuel Pressure Regulator is incorporated into the stock fuel rail. If you changed the rail and didn't add an aftermarket FPR, that is very likely your problem. 99.999% sure of that...

Have you ever physically checked your Fuel Pressure? It's one of the first things you do when diagnosing running issues, particularity with the fuel Rich symptoms you have.

RX7(613)

iTrader: (9)

Im pretty sure he is running the stock fuel rail with built in FPR . so the fuel pressure issue should be in check .





did you have a chance to add 15% fuel to the whole map. , maybe scale off the start up portion, as your car is starting up right now.

if you wanted to know easiest way, go into text mode of the fuel map. i believe shift and select a bunch of cells ( all maybe ? ) . then hit 5 or ctrl 5. and add multiplier as " 1.15 " this will increase everything selected by 15 %.