newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

Ok sorry guys I haven't been wrenching on the car lately due the weather but I haven't touched any of the fuel maps or any timing maps. I did however switch back to my external map sensor and reset the setting for such in the computer. I believe my Haltech has a vacuum leak which would indicate the low vacuum pressure I was seeing on the engine data. Now, I have done some reasearch to learn that my external map sensor is a 2 BAR. I started the engine to my amazement ran with out a trim control setting and had very good throttle response and much more of powerful note in the exhaust. But shortly after it running, i noticed I'm getting a small backfire while running, its also running very rich. If i let the engine run it sounds like a have plug firing intermittent almost like it will foul then burn, foul than burn and repeat the process. When I try to let it idle it seems to flood and than stall. It will than back fire very loudly while re-starting and than will start again with some throttle applied. Could this be a bad MAP sensor? Im not to sure whats going on now but I think I'm heading in the right direction now that its seems the engine whats to run strong.

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

Anyone have any new thoughts or ideas? Would greatly appreciate it!

RX7(613)

iTrader: (9)

Where did we left off ?

so You are now using a 2 bar map sensor, and set the haltech to 2 bar.

You have to re tune your idle and every other load point.

Chances are map sensor is good and you just need to retune, if not. You can test the map sensor.

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

Yes! Im using the GM 2 Bar MAP sensor. Before i start messing with fuel maps and ignition maps I want to bring up that the MAP sensor seemed to stay at one value no matter what the throttle position was. I wanna say it stayed at -3 PSI and would stay the same with the engine off ignition switch on. It only changed value if i unplugged it, where it fell to 0. Do you know what the procedure is for testing the MAP sensor?

RX7(613)

iTrader: (9)

you might be right then, it sounds like map sensor is either:

1) not wired correctly
2)not getting a correct vaccum source
3)bad


____

When you were running the internal 2.5 bar map sensor, did the vaccum signal change at all ? .

if not then its easy to say you dont have it hooked up to a vacuum source.

____________

follow this link to trouble shoot your map sensor

Part 1 -MAP Sensor Test (P0106, P0107, P0108) (GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L)

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

Well i bought a brand new GM 2 bar map sensor and I'm reading about -2.2psi on the text engine data with the engine off, key to the on position. I changed my vacuum source and re stabbed the CAS.
I could not get it to start tonight, but i am noticing that the engine will "kick back" while starting. Im pretty sure thats timing, correct?
Im lining up the front cover mark with the right pulley mark, and stabbed the CAS with the pickups pointing to the screw holes.
This is correct, right?
I have verified spark on both leadings and trailings as well.

RX7(613)

iTrader: (9)

how is the map sensor wired ? , Trace all your wires

it seems you have a map sensor setup issue.



check you map sensor wiring,

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

I didn't mess with the MAP today but i did take off the upper and mid intake to check voltage on the primary injectors. Just trying to cover all my bases but Im getting good voltage on the front rotor injector clip, one wire reading battery voltage and little to none on the second wire, as the rear rotor injector clip shows about 10v on one wire and 11v on the other. That can't be right.

I will check out the MAP sensor wiring tomorrow along with the injector voltage problem as well, as long as the flooding rain were are having will come to a stop.

But is there something in the software that could be causing the MAP to read the -2.2 psi and not the wiring? Just curious incase i messed something up in the setup.

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

I found out that some how my 12v power wire to my injector was sending 12v to other signal wire coming from the Haltech. I re heat shrinked and tape that injector and then i started to see normal voltage on all 4 injector clips.
Following this i bought i brand new MAP sensor GM 2 bar from auto zone. I am now reading -.3 psi on engine data which i think is a lot better than my previous -2psi.
I attempted starting and to my surprisal started a lot easier then previously but now it will only run for a short few seconds before it dies.
The MAP sensor is working as i can see the values changed during cranking and quick startup but I'm pretty sure it has something to do with fuel maps or possibly fuel pump? Adjusting the fuel maps is beyond me though. I've tried adjusting the fuel map but made no progress in doing so. Im at complete loss with this thing.

RX7(613)

iTrader: (9)

Seems like you have sorted most of the bugs, next thing is actual tune.

Do you know anyone near by who can tune it for you, it will be worth the few hundred bucks to have a fully enjoyable car.

With a non turbo car, you wont really blow the motor up, like a turbo car. But it can take a long time to get everything set ( if you are starting from zero and dont have someone close by to help you. )


I tried looking for my old non turbo maps, but couldnt find anything.

when car is running, does it feel like it has too much fuel ? what is it idling at ( 10 afrs or richer ? ) or over 13 AFrs ?

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

Thats another thing i need to get a AFR gauge!!! Its really hard to tell cause the car will start and run then die about 4 or 5 seconds later, applying throttle does not help at all either but i think your right Ill just have to haul it down to wilmington about 45 min away and have them take a look at it. The closest rotary shop is about 5 hours away unfortunately.

RX7(613)

iTrader: (9)

first priority is getting a wideband, I thought you had one.

to tune the car, it doesnt need to be a rotary tuner. Anyone in your area have knoledge on haltech or willing to tune it with the e6x , might be worth a try.

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I've been putting that off ill be sure to order one very soon.

Now i can't even get the car to start. I don know what to do to it any more ill just have to let a tuner take a look at it.

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

Good news! I found out my grounds were not grounded good so I extended them out and sent them to the negative side of battery and it fired right up. Its running insanely rich though.
I cut the fuel map down 25% from the base map but its still running really rich and will not hold a idle. Its also breaking up at rpm's above 3k. Is that normal?

unek87

Maybe check to see if your running on secondary's as primes . Maybe injector plugs got swapped on accident. I'm waiting on my battery for my ibm t20 thinkpad . No more using dos box to run the haltech program. I'm running a e6k with e6x harness converted on my 6 port turbo street port . What map are you using . Didn't read the whole thread sorry .

newkid2rotary2012

iTrader: (3)

I'm just running the base map supplied with Halwinx when i did the download from haltech website. But I'm not running a BAC valve either, could that pose a problem as well?