junito1

I have leading spark. Seems weak. But no trailing spark at all.

The tach does bounce a tiny bit on the initial turn when cranking but then stops bouncing.
I double checked the 2 wires going to the trailing coils and they are connected correctly.


The leading coils only has 2 wires total right? Whats that third black wire? is it a ground?
Im using claudio's base map for factory coils.

FrankV702

iTrader: (14)

Did you check to see if your trailing coil is getting power?

junito1

I checked all the 12v power wires to the leading and trailing.
They are both getting power.

However I am not getting reading Rpms on the data page when cranking.
Setting on the ecu are from the basemaps provided on the forum. I tinkered with the fuel map some since I have ID injectors.

junito1

ok. I checked my coils for spark again.

NEw results. ANd i dont know what it means.

I did the old screwdriver in the plug wire trick. Both leading and trailing do the same thing.
They both spark on the cranks first turn but then stop as the car continues to crank.

So I have Absolutely no spark on trailing nor leading right?

They CAS part of the harness was already done. I guess im going to cut it all up see if they are correct. I dont want to do this because this supposedly came from a running car so it should be correct.

junito1

I double checked the CAS for correct wiring and it checks according to claudio's diagram.

Dont know if this helps but I thought it was a bit odd.
I had someone crank the car for me.
When cranking. The first turn sparks and the last turn when key is let go sparks... But nothing in bewteen. IS this normal?

FrankV702

iTrader: (14)

What does the haltech rpms read while you're cranking?? Do you have a spare CAS? Are the rpms reading all crazy in the software?

junito1

NO rpm reading at all. Was told its the CAS wiring. Ill see if i can get a picture.

Syritis

iTrader: (2)

the 3rd wire on the leading coil is for diagnosis. it's not used.it grounds trough the base.

bumpstart

the spark on key on and off is normal for a a haltech with inbuilt reluctor filters
your filter and gain setting are too high,,or you may need to change the setup to reluctor and not hall effect
else if you have ra10 reluctor adapter you set it up for hall effect

junito1

I was already instructed to check the triger settings.
They are in reluctor. Not hall effect.
As for the gain. It is set at 1 i believe. It is claudios base map. So the settings are all checking.

junito1

THis is how my CAS is wired.



CAS :plug: LOOM

RED :::::::::::::: YELLOW
GREEN ::::::::::::::: GREEN
WHITE :::::::::::::: RED
WHITE/BLACK::::::: BLUE

fritts

iTrader: (5)

Wiring looks good. You will need to work with your gain and trigger settings. If you don't get RPM in your software the engine is not going to fire. Check the trigger diagnostics page while cranking and post back what you are seeing. Also may want to start rerouting your CAS wiring away from your alternator or ignition wiring.

junito1

Im getting the "reconnect haltech" while cranking. I dont know what it means.. Sounds bad already.

FrankV702

iTrader: (14)

Where do you have your 12v IGN wire connected to? Connect it to the green plug in front of the leading coil if it's not. Sounds like you may have it connected to a 12V Ign source that shuts off during cranking. The Haltech needs a 12v Ign source that stays powered while cranking. Also, what kind of battery are you using? Is it fully charged?

junito1

I was reading and came across the info. I switched to proper 12v ign. But i still had no spark nor rpm.
Then i switched claudio's "550/550 factory map" for his "550/1600 some mods" map and then i got spark. SO i believe there might be wrong with the settings in the first map i tried.

As soon as i hard spark. I got everything ready and She fired right up. OMG its so nice to hear my baby alive again!!! 3 months.. 3 months...
We let it warm up. And leaned up the idle a good bit and it is smooth. We then gave it some throttle and on the down rev we let it fall all the way to idle and she went rich and died. And we could get it started again. We tried deflooding for like 20 mins.. never did get it started again.

WHat does it mean when;
Im trying to start the car and while she cranks right when the coils ignite the engine slow down cranking like the first attempt at combustion tried to back spin the motor or slowed it down.

How do i set the engine to "0" timing. Do I lock timing and check while cranking right? not idling?


Also while the car was idling great ad warming up.. We noticed the cluster rpm gauge would bounce a bit. everyone 2-3 seconds

fritts

iTrader: (5)

You need to verify you have a good crank signal before doing anything else.... 2nd is zero the timing during cranking. Don't run the engine until you do so. Timing is zeroed in the ecu after correctly stabbing the CAS. Please do a search on timing in this forum or review the sprint RE quick start guide to get an overview.