hi, i have a 89 turbo2 with a jspec s4 engine with stock injectors and ignition with a jacobs1000 box, FMIC, exhaust, throttle body mod, emmisions removed, no BAC, blocked off omp. well anyways, i got a basemap from either this site or from hitmans site. both are for stock ignition, injection, series4/5 with a 3 bar map. i got it run at idle for about 30min. i zeroed the timing.

just to make sure i got it correct: i went to ignition settings and turned on the timing lock to -5. i hooked up light to leading 1 wire by coil, set the yellow mark to the pointer by turning the cas. i have the trigger angle at 70, should it be lower?

after i did that i turned the lock off. i have around 17 advance and 14 trail advance. why is it so close together? can i adjust it? so does that mean i have 3 degrees of split timing?

now for the fuel issue..... at idle (1000-1200 rpm) on my plx wideband, it shows 10.9 to 11.7 afr. i adjust the fuel map( i press HOME tab, which takes me to 1500 and1000) i adjust the bar down to around 1.5ms( not sure exactly, but really low) and it still runs rich and i cant rev it up without it bogging. im thinking the injectors are leaking. they are old. one more question. do i have to mess with the injector trims? thanks alot.

chris

 

here are some pics i took of my labtop. the enging is running at operating temps.







does anyone have any advice on the injector trims and the injector pulse. i have the zero throttle map disabled and the full throttle map disabled. i have barometric lock on. thanks,
chris

 

i noticed your tps is fault. Have you calibrated it?

 

yes. i did. it shows fault also when i go WOT. is the tps bad or do i have to adjust it and do another calibration? also, what are engine flags, and how do i check them?

 

The TPS can show 0%/0 Fault when off-throttle and that's just fine. The TPS is only really used for throttle accelerator pump functions when going from off-throttle back on, idle air/BAC Valve operation, and zero throttle map (0-2krpm). Worst-case having the TPS goofy is the car will run funny on tip-in. Otherwise it'll be fine when in steady-state cruising.

B

 

Good. Btw, HITman tends to be liberal with the fuel in the map so I'm not surprised to see it being quite fat on your AFR gauge per your pictures.

Yep that'll work. Trigger Angle is the same thing as rotating the CAS -- If you move one, the other will "change". One way to zero the timing is to leave the CAS bolted in-place and then adjust the Trigger Angle value while having the gun firing down at the pulley.

You did the procedure right. Now let's hope that your 5 and 20*ATDC marks on the pulley are indicative of true timing on the crankshaft. Reason I bring this up is because I've been burned enough times by these motors having a mis-matched pair of front hub and crank pulley, throwing the marks off about 15* either direction. We go to zero the timing just to find out the motor knocks under light load (from excessive advance) or runs like hell due to excessive retard across the board, scratching our heads as to what's wrong.

Sounds like 3* split to me. Advance will vary depending upon load and RPM, btw. What load and RPM are you referring to there?

More than likely it's the base map. PM me these details and perhaps I can help you out:

- Engine (compression ratio, series, and port work)
- Any intake mods (throttle body, changes in manifolds)
- Fuel injectors, fuel pump(s), and static base rail pressure (or if using the stock fuel pressure regulator)
- Turbo

Btw, I don't advise knocking an individual bar down quite a bit anywhere on the fuel map. I normally leave that as the very last step in ultra-fine tuning if I'm being that picky about it. One way you can do this is to enable the Zero Throttle Map and set a flat, linear set of MS values from 0-2krpm on that zero throttle map and then fine where the engine will idle happily anywhere between 12's and 13's:1 on your WBO2. From there, you can figure what the % difference is between what the engine requires Inj MS wise off the Zero Throttle Map VS. what's in the standard fuel map at that given amount of RPM. If it's 10% richer, for example, then do ALL RANGES (Alt-R), grab all bars in vacuum and just prior to the staging bar, hit Alt-P, then punch in -10. Once it's finished, hit Alt-R again and give it a try to see if the car runs any better.

Fix the TPS as this will throw you off and confuse some of your effourts.

B

 

here is the map im using. its fron this site.

http://www.tuningtechnology.com/Down...BTstockE6K.zip

 

Something i just noticed on your data page your MAP sensor reading is 0.4 which tells me that either the map sensor is not connected, or damaged, or you have a serious vacuum leak, because at idle readings should be something like -15in/Hg for decent motor, so you might want to check that also.

 

ok. i'll check that out. thanks.. i havent had time to work on it this weekend.

 

the igniton split is 3 degrees and the page you displyed says that:

ignition advance 16

trailing advance 13

 

so what are you saying?

 

well i started it up today and found that there is a vacuum leak. i put a vacuum gauge on the nipple facing the passenger side on the upper intake manifold next to the port for the brakebooster. it fluctuated inbetween 17 to 10 inhg. then hooked it up to the one behind the intake on the top port of the three thats there, and read 0inhg. i have my fpr and boost gauge hooked up to that. the map sensor is hooked up to the bigge one on the rear of the manifold. i dont know where the leak is from so im going to remove the upper manifold and replace the gasket and check out the nipples on the lower manifold. i already replace the lower manifold gasket and the injector o rings.

 

hook the map sensor to the nipple on the upper intake above the turbo, the large port in the back of the upper intake isnt a good source.

 

i did that and it does make a difference alot. but why does the other nipples on the back have zero vacuum? shouldnt all of them be the same?

 

so, i ripped the upper manifold off and replaced all vacuum caps and redid my vacuum routing. i road tested it and it just bogs when i accelerate and it doesnt move. the afr's show rich( goes from around 12.0 to 10.0 then to rch). i lowered alot of bars in the 3000 to 4500 rpm ranges mostly between bars 6-11. well it runs alot better and im working on the idle and getting it to start within a couple turn overs. thanks for reading.
chris