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Haltech E6k basemap 13bT

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Old 01-24-13, 08:24 PM
  #1  
35r 13b first gen

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E6k basemap 13bT

I cant seem to find anything close to what I think I need...

I have an E6K, '87 4 port with street/raceport, j-tech intake and autonomics 4 barrel throttle plate w 2 ID725s/ 2 ID2000s, t4 gt35r, fmic, TII CAS, 4 aem smart coils... boost control, and wideband are separate, wideband will provide signal for datalogging....
Old 01-27-13, 10:23 PM
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35r 13b first gen

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OK since I'm not sure if anyone has a similar setup... Can anyone tell me what my basic setup should look like... I have also seen three different methods for setting timing. I think I'm going to take off the front pulley bolt... since i have a racing beat dual sheave pulley that's for a 12a in a 13b motor. However i have heard line the keyway to 9 o'clock and also 6 o'clock. Which is correct? According to Haltech ( through other sources) its 6 o'clock.. is that then 0° or 5° BTDC?


Also I adjusted another 13bT basemap with stock coils.. =Constant Duty... But not sure if i need to Do anything else for the smartcoils running wastespark...

As far as injectors.. the map I have is for 850/1600 ccs not sure what else i need to get it to fire up and at lease Idle.. please help...
Old 01-27-13, 10:45 PM
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35r 13b first gen

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Also I have a bypass type fuel system as you can see... just wondering if my fuel pressure will be high enough to start the car since after the "prime" fuel pressure steadily drops until cranking...
Old 01-28-13, 12:25 AM
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premix, for f's sake

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if you are refering to the key on the front end of the E-shaft, the engine will be at TDC with it at the 9'o clock position (pointing at the exhaust). If you have a 1st gen pully, the it will have a TDC mark and a 20* ATDC mark, 2nd gen pully's will have 5* and 20* ATDC.

once again, refer to 1300cc 2nd gen E6K install as they will give good tips on stabbing the CAS and getting the timing set appropriately
Old 01-28-13, 10:25 AM
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35r 13b first gen

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The link you referred me to says 6 o'clock... See why im confused... And I have an aftermarket pulley for first gen with 4 timing marks.. Thats why im using keyway method...
Old 01-28-13, 12:13 PM
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35r 13b first gen

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Looks like the RB pulley is the same for all rx7s... It has 20°BTDC 10°BTDC 0° and 10°ATDC marks.. So if I put on the 3rd mark that should be 0°.. Then I assume align dot on gear to strike on CAS shaft...?

I am using constant duty, direct fire, rotary, 24 tooth, I think offset was at 2... Not sure if these and other settings are correct for direct fire w smart coils.. Also I am clueless as far as charge time or whatever
Old 01-28-13, 02:30 PM
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premix, for f's sake

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In the link, they are just telling you one of the ways to stab the CAS. the "haltech methond" has you put the key at 6oclock, stang the CAS and set trigger angle to 90*. Technically it doesnt matter how you stab the CAS, as long as you input the correct tooth offset and firing angle. The link I gave you just gives 3 known good combinations of crank position, CAS stab and haltech settings which should get you a base to start at. Dont try messing with anything else until you verify the Haltech has its base timing right.


...and yes TDC is w/ key at 9oclock

good luck!
Old 01-31-13, 11:03 AM
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i would skip the base map, it won't do you any good, these cars vary enough that you can have two "identical" nice running cars, swap maps and then have two bricks.

you DO need to go thru the settings, make sure you have everything right, then you do need to zero the timing. the one person method is to unplug the fuel pump, and use a remote starter and just check the timing while you crank it.

the FSM lists cranking timing as 5BTDC leading, idle is -5 and -20, although running TDC and -15, is fine, its actually the pre emissions spec. NOX is higher, but we probably don't care.

start idle fuel at around 2.2 - 2.4ms, it should be rich, but it'll run, then you can at least start tuning! i also pick some values for the top end that i know will either be too rich to run, or safe, so you can hit it "untuned" and not need to really worry about the engine. so i'll turn fuel way up, and set timing to something really conservative. these days i'll use a duty cycle calculator and pick something like 80-85% and set everything over like 5psi to that.
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