Haltech Discussion: INNOVATE WBO2
Discussion: INNOVATE WBO2
Please dont answer this thread is you have no first hand experience with the Innovate range of WBO2 controllers.
Hi guys/girls ( maybe )
Here in little old NZ, we dont have much of a variety of WBO2 controllers and the cheapest and most readily available is the Innovate LC-1 controller and sensor kit which sells at the moment for NZ$290. or NZ$350 with a DB range gauge
After doing some reading on this forum I need to try and deciper the BS from the truth, so can I please get your experienced opinions on the Innovate range.
There is a guy here selling a 3rd hand LM-1 controller and used sensor for approx NZ$250
Are these units as bad as some have made them out to be or is it all just **** and wind?
Your thoughts please?
Hi guys/girls ( maybe )
Here in little old NZ, we dont have much of a variety of WBO2 controllers and the cheapest and most readily available is the Innovate LC-1 controller and sensor kit which sells at the moment for NZ$290. or NZ$350 with a DB range gauge
After doing some reading on this forum I need to try and deciper the BS from the truth, so can I please get your experienced opinions on the Innovate range.
There is a guy here selling a 3rd hand LM-1 controller and used sensor for approx NZ$250
Are these units as bad as some have made them out to be or is it all just **** and wind?
Your thoughts please?
I actually use one of the LC1's from NZ performance Wholesale (who I assume you are looking at getting from at that price) for testing and road tuning, dyno I use has a different one built in naturally.
I have used LM1 previously, sensor lasted a couple of years in an FD plus a few other projects.
Bang for buck LC1's aren't bad, I have had one arrive that had no firmware in it from new, but was easily fixed.
The only thing to be aware of is that they come unterminated flying lead, so you need to wire to plugs or into your car for it to work, which is a little extra work most people forget when ordering based on price.
The LC1 calibration procedure some people have issues with, but I have no problem. Just follow the manual as it is close to what you actually have to do lol (The LED flashes different to what is int he manual).
You need to wire inthe calibration button and LED, even though it says it is optional you do need it.
I would shy away from second hand product personally.
I have used LM1 previously, sensor lasted a couple of years in an FD plus a few other projects.
Bang for buck LC1's aren't bad, I have had one arrive that had no firmware in it from new, but was easily fixed.
The only thing to be aware of is that they come unterminated flying lead, so you need to wire to plugs or into your car for it to work, which is a little extra work most people forget when ordering based on price.
The LC1 calibration procedure some people have issues with, but I have no problem. Just follow the manual as it is close to what you actually have to do lol (The LED flashes different to what is int he manual).
You need to wire inthe calibration button and LED, even though it says it is optional you do need it.
I would shy away from second hand product personally.
Last edited by Nige; May 31, 2010 at 06:45 PM.
I am personally not a fan of the LC-1. I have grounded it per instructions and it still doesn't always function. Its like playing the lottery. That is not something you want while tuning. The AEM WB is around the same price and was easy to install and use. I am going to try a few more brands soon.
I personally will stay far away from innovate myself. I will say when it would work it seemed to be very accurate.
I personally will stay far away from innovate myself. I will say when it would work it seemed to be very accurate.
When grounded properly is one of the fastest reacting and accurate WBO2's out there. When it initially came out I fried the outputs but received a new one and have been using it for years for now without issues.
Used mine for years. No issues. Maybe 13b-rx3 is pushing the limit as he runs insane boost/heat? Mine appears to be fine at 20psi with over 400rwhp on a mustang with methanol/h20 injection...
Can't you buy the techedge down there?
Can't you buy the techedge down there?
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The LC1. Now that i think about it i have gone trough more LC1s than sensors hahaha. On the first one the 0-5V output quit working (0V). The second and third give the - - - and thats it, they don't even heat up the sensor. I have triple checked all the grounds and cant come up with anything. Until someone cones out with a WB that will register very low a/f ratios and is less than $600 i will just keep replacing them.
I had a lot of issues with mine when I first installed it but I went back and soldered everything instead of crimping and it's run a lot better but was still sketchy. I then upgraded from windows xp to windows 7 and it worked like a charm. I've only had it a few months so I can't comment on durability.
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Temple, Texas (Central)
I've had no problems with mine. I bought one used and the sensor was shot, so I bought a new one. I then fried the outputs to the LC-1 because I miswired it, but since I bought a new one its been working flawlessly. Always comes on, always reads consitantly. I've only had it for a few months, though, fwiw.
iv been running my lc-1 w/ xd-16 gauge for about a year now all the time double tripple checked wiring and all is good never a problem. if memory serves ALL grounds are at the same spot for mine. only thing i did find it really needed a dedicated power source running of any tapped wires or the like just didnt work it pulled too much power. i couldnt be happier with it and datalogging to the datalogit no issues.
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