MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

At 3900 rpms im showing like 38 degrees of advance... Anyone take a look at this log and let me know what to do? This is from a high idle, warmed up motor to around 4500 rpms...

thanks in advance

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

I guess asking any question in the Haltech section is taboo. Cause aint no one in here, listening?

If I dont get this damn thing figured out soon, im gonna start parting stuff.

Anyone wanna buy something?

tims

you need to check the values in the ignition map look up table. check the load point and see what you have it set for. this is the hard part of a Haltech installation, tuning. the number with no load does not look weird. is this while driving or sitting in neutral in the garage?

setzep

[QUOTE]Originally posted by tims
you need to check the values in the ignition map look up table. check the load point and see what you have it set for. this is the hard part of a Haltech installation, tuning. the number with no load does not look weird. is this while driving or sitting in neutral in the garage? [/QUOTE


He's just reving it in the garage.

tims

I noticed that in studying the map and data log. all looks fine according to his map.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

Guys Im sorry for seeming like a 'butt' Im just getting so pissed at this, I cant find anyone local to tune it, and I want to get it driveable to get an exhaust on it..

But I got to thinking, the reason it is so advanced at 4400 is cause maybe its expecting the turbo to boost and I have the boost control at zero, since doesnt the boost make the haltech retard the timing???

Well heres the map, I have, I did some changes to it. BTW: I have restabbed the CAS 10 times!! I checked and re checked the timing 100 times, it shows perfect everytime with the timing lock ON. I figure its running way too rich...

Heres what it does, it starts and idles perfect with the timing lock on, if you turn it off it starts sounding like its missing and the motor speeds up due to the advanced timing. Its about 11 degrees advanced at idle with the lock off. Rev it up easily, and hold the throttle at a steady 2500 or so, it continues to miss a little.. I assume the map is too rich..

Well heres the map after the changes I have made, see attachment..

tims

the map looks fine. it is very hard to tell how rich/lean an engine is over the internet. if the timing is zeroed and correct then turning off the lock function should not cause a problem. try setting up the ignition map to idle near the lock setting you are using. without a load on the engine it will not develope any boost. that is why you are seeing 38* timing advance. if you look at your ignition map and find the load point for the map sensor value and rpm it will show 30 plus degrees figure in the other ignition correction maps and you get 36*. under load and boost you will only see 16-18*. as for the idle tuning it will take some experimentation if tuning help is not available. also I would double check for any vacuum leaks. this could cause your poor idle

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

Ok so thats what I thought about the boost, it would bring the timing down.. At least I learned 1 thing, I understand what you mean about load.. I have doublechecked for vacuum leaks, usually a vacuum leak would be indicated on the boost/vac guage as an unsteady pointer right? The only place that would concern me about a leak would be the upper intake where it mates to the lower intake, I didnt use a new gasket there, but the lower intake to the motor is a brand new gasket.

The A/F guage shows the mixture to be about 2 green lights into the rich section. Of course would not having an exhaust on it affect this? Its just got the 3" downpipe on it for now, until I make it to the shop to get the full exhaust done

tims

use some ether or starting fluid to check for leaks, sometimes they are hard to find and don't show well on the gauge. the only problem you might have running without the exhaust is boost creep and over reving the turbo. without any back pressure the turbo can spin freely(I damaged two rebuilt turbos this way, bent main shaft), but since you have not driven it it would not show up yet. try experimenting with the idle settings. you are not likely to damage anything just sitting in the garage, but be careful when you are first driving it.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

That kinda worries me too on the the turbo w/o an exhaust. I got a hybrid turbo, its got a AR .70 compresor housing, and the P trim , stock turbine housing machine to fit P trim

tims

problem with all the modified or hybrid turbos is the wastegate opening in the stock or modified stock exhaust housing. they are to small to control the turbo boost in even stock trim with a free flowing exhaust and intake system. be careful and monitor the boost to be sure the wastegate is keeping the boost under control. if it is above your set point you are going to have problems. good luck

Maxthe7man

Hey Mike, I am not trying to sound like a condenscending *** here, but there are some books out there that even though they are not rotary related, cover ignition strategy on forced induction motors into quite some depth, I read those kind of books and it gave me a pretty good idea of what to do with timing curves and numbers off and on boost.
I read alot of Smokey Yuniks tuning secrets, and also alot of "super tuning" books with some of the early speed gurus tuning examples, such as Vic edelbrock and Micky Thompson.
As different as the wankel is, its still just an internal combustion engine, just some of the reference points for timing and crank position are changed/shifted..These books illustrate ways of tuning via engine load and Rpm, and what relevance each factor plays on performance and driveability then the haltech maps and timing curves will probably become very clear to you to why they are shaped like they are..Max

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

Max this is exactly the kind of information I want, Im not afraid to pick up a book to learn. I do read rather fast In the sistuation Im in any help is good help.. Thanks Max

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

The wastegate has been ported , I do however, still see the point you are making. Trust me, Im not gonn try to do max boost and then work my way down, I will go from zero up, once its tuned.

tims

there is no way to "port" the housing large enough(I opened mine to the size of the flapper). be careful and watch the boost gauge. anything over the setpoint(what ever your boost setting is) is boost creep. if the exhaust is free flowing, like a 2.5"-3" into a straight through muffler you will see creep. especially with the airbox removed and a cone filter installed. plus the large compressor will move even more air through the engine making things worse. keep your eye on the boost gauge.

89t295k

Uh...I didn't read all of this but, that@3800 rpm in vac is normal.......your timing map should adjust to a lower number under boost.

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

Do you still need tuning services? where are you located, im going to be in california for sevenstock and in seattle for the begining of October, also planing to go to the east coast, NY, or Toronto. If you still need your car tuned, please let me know and we can try and work something out.

PM me if you like.

Later,