Haltech Car surges, erratic/bouncing acceleration below 3K rpm
Thread Starter
Mad Man
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,758
Likes: 2
From: Big Island Hawaii
ok
Originally Posted by RETed
Get rid of that screen and get a real air filter.
Having that screen on is a dangerous if not restrictive inlet to the turbo.
I've seen screens get sucked into turbos, and you can imagine what kinda damage it's going to do.
You would think a screen over the inlet would bee freer flowing, but it's not.
Having the screen so close to the inlet "magnefies" the screen dimensions, so it's actually more restrictive versus a properly sized air filter.
For your power levels, I'd recommend a K&N RE-880, which is one of the largest K&N filters made for a 4" I.D.
I purchased a K&N 7460, it's 4" inlet, 7" diameter, and 9" length. I have two options, one is to put it in a cold air box in the right corner, fed by a ~4" duct from the nose of the car, the good thing about that is that it requires very little piping, the bad is that the filter takes nearly the entire space so i do not know how well the air will get around the filter. the other negative is that the box itself will heat soak, I can limit this by insulating it, but I still do not love the idea. the second alternative is to mount the filter up high, behind the IC, before the radiator, and oil coolers(I have one mounted at the top of the radiator, and one mounted low)It would be where all the rlays, and overflow bottle used to be. I like this due to it being a high pressure area, protected from engine bay heat. The downside is that it would require a 30* off the turbo inlet, and then 2-90* sweeps to plumb it. The plumbing would be 4" welded up like an IC pipe. What do you think?
BTW, that surging problem could also be a badly calibrated TPS.
If the TPS sees "0" at a higher RPM over your decel-cut setting, it will try and kill the engine.
Are you running decel-cut on?
I am not sure familiar with the decel cut, where do I find that in the software?
The car was tuned by a good tuner, I am just taking over, since he is not very available LOL (not Steve, it was tuned by Mike Johnson(Mostly Mazda, M2, PR Motorsports, JRE Motorsports RIP)
-Ted
Having that screen on is a dangerous if not restrictive inlet to the turbo.
I've seen screens get sucked into turbos, and you can imagine what kinda damage it's going to do.
You would think a screen over the inlet would bee freer flowing, but it's not.
Having the screen so close to the inlet "magnefies" the screen dimensions, so it's actually more restrictive versus a properly sized air filter.
For your power levels, I'd recommend a K&N RE-880, which is one of the largest K&N filters made for a 4" I.D.
I purchased a K&N 7460, it's 4" inlet, 7" diameter, and 9" length. I have two options, one is to put it in a cold air box in the right corner, fed by a ~4" duct from the nose of the car, the good thing about that is that it requires very little piping, the bad is that the filter takes nearly the entire space so i do not know how well the air will get around the filter. the other negative is that the box itself will heat soak, I can limit this by insulating it, but I still do not love the idea. the second alternative is to mount the filter up high, behind the IC, before the radiator, and oil coolers(I have one mounted at the top of the radiator, and one mounted low)It would be where all the rlays, and overflow bottle used to be. I like this due to it being a high pressure area, protected from engine bay heat. The downside is that it would require a 30* off the turbo inlet, and then 2-90* sweeps to plumb it. The plumbing would be 4" welded up like an IC pipe. What do you think?
BTW, that surging problem could also be a badly calibrated TPS.
If the TPS sees "0" at a higher RPM over your decel-cut setting, it will try and kill the engine.
Are you running decel-cut on?
I am not sure familiar with the decel cut, where do I find that in the software?
The car was tuned by a good tuner, I am just taking over, since he is not very available LOL (not Steve, it was tuned by Mike Johnson(Mostly Mazda, M2, PR Motorsports, JRE Motorsports RIP)
-Ted
Thread Starter
Mad Man
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,758
Likes: 2
From: Big Island Hawaii
O'k, I have added a bunch of fuel, and I am making some headway. previously the idle would bounce everywhere from ~1500-~3000, and then it would shoot up to ~4000 when you reached 3000(TPS ? ). Now, it is steady at 1500, but I cannot get rid of the bounce at ~1700. It is fine at 2000, but by 22003000 it is really rough like an outboard motor. once I reach 3000, the motor revs to ~4500(there is no in between, the car wont stay at 3000).
I think I have added too much fuel, even though the afrs are 11.8-12.5 a light throttle no load, there is raw fuel literally spraying out the exhaust. Argh. I may have to give up, and get someone who knows what they are doing.... Help
I think I have added too much fuel, even though the afrs are 11.8-12.5 a light throttle no load, there is raw fuel literally spraying out the exhaust. Argh. I may have to give up, and get someone who knows what they are doing.... Help
Lives on the Forum
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 26,664
Likes: 22
From: n
Originally Posted by Carl Byck
I am not sure familiar with the decel cut, where do I find that in the software?
The car was tuned by a good tuner, I am just taking over, since he is not very available LOL (not Steve, it was tuned by Mike Johnson(Mostly Mazda, M2, PR Motorsports, JRE Motorsports RIP)
The car was tuned by a good tuner, I am just taking over, since he is not very available LOL (not Steve, it was tuned by Mike Johnson(Mostly Mazda, M2, PR Motorsports, JRE Motorsports RIP)
It should toggle between ENABLE and DISABLE for decel-cut.
There should also be an RPM field right after it - default is like 1700?
OH!
Mike Johnson!
Yeah, we know of him.
That kinda explains a lot.
-Ted
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From: n
Originally Posted by Carl Byck
O'k, I have added a bunch of fuel, and I am making some headway. previously the idle would bounce everywhere from ~1500-~3000, and then it would shoot up to ~4000 when you reached 3000(TPS ? ). Now, it is steady at 1500, but I cannot get rid of the bounce at ~1700. It is fine at 2000, but by 22003000 it is really rough like an outboard motor. once I reach 3000, the motor revs to ~4500(there is no in between, the car wont stay at 3000).
I think I have added too much fuel, even though the afrs are 11.8-12.5 a light throttle no load, there is raw fuel literally spraying out the exhaust. Argh. I may have to give up, and get someone who knows what they are doing.... Help
I think I have added too much fuel, even though the afrs are 11.8-12.5 a light throttle no load, there is raw fuel literally spraying out the exhaust. Argh. I may have to give up, and get someone who knows what they are doing.... Help
What kinds spark plugs wires are you running?
Is this your 500hp+ race car, right?
-Ted
Thread Starter
Mad Man
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,758
Likes: 2
From: Big Island Hawaii
Originally Posted by RETed
Um, decel cut is on Alt-S, Fuel - I think.
It should toggle between ENABLE and DISABLE for decel-cut.
There should also be an RPM field right after it - default is like 1700?
OH!
Mike Johnson!
Yeah, we know of him.
That kinda explains a lot.
-Ted
It should toggle between ENABLE and DISABLE for decel-cut.
There should also be an RPM field right after it - default is like 1700?
OH!
Mike Johnson!
Yeah, we know of him.
That kinda explains a lot.
-Ted
Rotary Freak
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,926
Likes: 0
From: fort worth, tx, usa
hey Carl,
sorry for not getting back to you. I was gone to TN soon after you called for me and I was going to call you back when I get back. However, I'm stuck in AL because my 3 rotor broke down on me on the drive back. Some how, the engine overheated and damaged both the intermediate housings, center rotor and center rotor housing. I think I finally found the parts today to get my engine running again so I should be back at the shop by early next week. If you need help, call my cell # at 817-683-5715.
Steve
sorry for not getting back to you. I was gone to TN soon after you called for me and I was going to call you back when I get back. However, I'm stuck in AL because my 3 rotor broke down on me on the drive back. Some how, the engine overheated and damaged both the intermediate housings, center rotor and center rotor housing. I think I finally found the parts today to get my engine running again so I should be back at the shop by early next week. If you need help, call my cell # at 817-683-5715.
Steve
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From: n
Originally Posted by Carl Byck
plugs are NGK 6725-115 race
wires are magnecore 10mm
someday....
wires are magnecore 10mm
someday....
Try running some normal 7's or 9's just to get the engine initially tuned, and then change to the race plugs when you start to make runs into heavy boost?
-Ted
Locust of the apocalypse
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 2
From: Directly above the center of the earth (York, PA)
Just a thought, but before i set the static pressure on my FPR, I had the same surging at idle and it was running like *** in general. After i pulled the Vac line off the FPR, set the fuel pressure to 32PSI, and then plugged the vac back in... its been idling rock solid.
Thread Starter
Mad Man
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,758
Likes: 2
From: Big Island Hawaii
Ted, that could be(raw fuel spitting out the exhaust, but afrs in the 12s), but the car ran fine before with 11.5s, are you saying that dialing in the car with hotter plugs will be easier in a no load scenario? If so, what if any effect will this have when I put the 11.5s back in?
YOD, my car was set with a 40psi static pressure, and was running fine. The only thing I changed was the turbo, and the intake. What you are saying is easy enough, just disconnect the vac line, fiddle a bit with the FPR, and replace the vac line? Any idea what was going on that was cured by this exercise? Thanks guys, I do appreciate the feedback. I feel pretty stupid on this forum, but I'm learning. Stick with me, SS7 is only a month away
YOD, my car was set with a 40psi static pressure, and was running fine. The only thing I changed was the turbo, and the intake. What you are saying is easy enough, just disconnect the vac line, fiddle a bit with the FPR, and replace the vac line? Any idea what was going on that was cured by this exercise? Thanks guys, I do appreciate the feedback. I feel pretty stupid on this forum, but I'm learning. Stick with me, SS7 is only a month away
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Posts: 26,664
Likes: 22
From: n
Originally Posted by Carl Byck
Ted, that could be(raw fuel spitting out the exhaust, but afrs in the 12s), but the car ran fine before with 11.5s, are you saying that dialing in the car with hotter plugs will be easier in a no load scenario? If so, what if any effect will this have when I put the 11.5s back in?
Changing to 11.5's shouldn't matter much, but you really should not be driving around with 11.5's anyways.
Race car, right?
-Ted
Thread Starter
Mad Man
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,758
Likes: 2
From: Big Island Hawaii
Race car, yes. The car was a daily driver with 11.5s however. I'll try these recomendations tommorow, check my timing, and call you Oh wait, you never gave me the free Ted advice cell number I do appreciate the feedback as I mentioned above. If you feel so inclined, you can PM me your cell #. Thanks again, Carl
Oh wait, you never gave me the free Ted advice cell number I do appreciate the feedback as I mentioned above. If you feel so inclined, you can PM me your cell #. Thanks again, Carl
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From: n
Are these the BV plugs?
Sorry, no cell at the moment - SprintPCS pissed me off, and I'm waiting for Nextel to drop their rates a little more.
I do normally hang out in AIM and YM and IRC a lot.
Right now, I'm pretty busy this weekend - got a party to go to and then F1 tonight!
-Ted
Sorry, no cell at the moment - SprintPCS pissed me off, and I'm waiting for Nextel to drop their rates a little more.
I do normally hang out in AIM and YM and IRC a lot.
Right now, I'm pretty busy this weekend - got a party to go to and then F1 tonight!
-Ted
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