Ok when i start the car for the first time of the day it will start and idle perfect for about 10 minutes, the air temps are about 95 and coolant temps about 180 and will stay around there. After it short idle, it will die flat. It won’t stumble or misfire it just straight out dies on its face out of nowhere. Than when I try to start it back up it wont start, i have tried to start it about 5 times after it dies, than if I let it sit for about a hour than it will start right back up. I have changed the spark plugs, and i have check the Fuel pressure when it dies/ about to and its holding strong at 42 psi. Also while it’s idling the a/f show about 12.9-13.0 and stays steady. I disconnected my TT and that didn’t help at all and I have ran thought the haltech e6k looking for some kind of choke setup or something along those lines but didn’t see anything. I have both idles disabled, and this has been happening for a few day. Anyone got any bright ideas. The battery is reading 14.2 volts while idle so it’s not the battery either. I also have a Data log of it when it fails. Let me know if something looks out of the ordinary. This log is of one of the ones with the alternator problem which was fixed and that the reason for the low voltage, but the problem was still there after i fixed tha alt. Please email me for the file cause it wont let me upload it! TIA
Marc

 

Well i let the car idle and die on its own again, as it was idling i hooked up the timing gun to see if there was spark after it died on it own. Once tha car died on its own i tryed to crank it and held the trigger down and i got no light flashes. My guess is the coils are overheating and shutting down. Dose this sound like a logical explination?

 

if you have a ignition box,check it.sounds like a eletronic problem to be.hot triode,if you have a know good spare haltech that always helps.

 

e6 or e11?

 

e6k, dont have a box yet but im going to swap the coils and ignitor out to see if that fixes my problem. Let you know what i find!

 

Well i swaped the ignitor and it died on cue. Soi changed the coils and it didnt die in idle b itself. So well see what happens tomorrow.

 

Well its running fine again today, so it must have been the coils thanks for the help!

 

I lied its not running fine! Its dose the identical thing as before and i have switched out the coils and ignitors with ones known to be working! To add to my earlier comments after it dies and wont start. While the motor is cranking you can hear the rotors turning but im nto really sure if im getting enough spark then after a couple secs you just hear the rotor start to drag/slowdown/want to stop/something is holding it from spining, not your normal cranking sound and i shut it down after that? Let is sit for 30 mins and it will start back up, im not sure if this is a haltech problem of something else but i really need some input, i have hooked up a timing light to a leading plug after the car dies and i only get about 1 flash while its trying to crank so this leads me to believe its a ignition problem. TIA
Marc

 

Is there anything that would ever tell the haltech to shut off, stop firing, as in if the water temp got 20 deg abouve the fan setting or anything alone these lines? Also im figuring its a ignition problem so im want to test the volts that are going to the ignitor, what is the voltage i should see at the ignitor? thanks
Marc

 

Yoy have to adjust your hot start fuel compensation , cranking timing , post start and all those other maps in the Haltech menu (I am at work now and dont have my manual handy, but I know this 'cause I dicked around with mine alot) , the idle is extremly sensitive to fuel ratios and timing. from the sound of it , you are a bit too rich when you get up to temperature , the car refuses to start because its flodded .Next time it dies , pull the plugs and see if they are wet.also the timing at idle shouldn't be more than 8 degrees adv.

 

Thanks for the info, im about at 15 deg advanced right now. Ill try it tomorrow and see what happends!

 

Also, make sure the charge time on the coils isn't so great that it's overheating them.

BK

 

I run 5ms charge on my FC coils and 5btdc and 11.9-12.2 afr at idle.

 

I sitll have the stock FD coils, what MS should i run? Currently its setup at 4ms.

 

that's what hitman's series 6 maps set the charge time to...4ms for FD

 

but! steve kan suggests 3ms charge time, no more than that actually

my car is doing the same thing, e6x...

 

if this is a recent thing that started happening without you changing anything, just climate change, it's very likely correction maps and possibly even something in the setup menu like post start temp limit settings. Check if post start is getting used at the current temps and watch the coolant temp & intake temp fuel maps while the car idles and warms up, you might see exactly what bars it goes over when it dies and see a obvious discrepancy.

 

well no, now mine isn't starting at all....doens't it try to lite off

i replaced igniter, no dice

 

OK well its still do it. But i got the time to really messed with it today. So after it died i check to see if the plug were wet and they were clean. Than i check for spark on the leading plugs and i had that. So i tryed a known good map from Keith and it was doing the same thing. I got a good datalog of it when it was running ok than when it decided to die. The battery dosent look like its getting charged all the time, so i check to see if i had a bad alt but i was getting about 14.xx. I screwed around with the connectino at the Fuse box and it started to work again, it might have not been tight( the batterys in the trunk) So than the car stayed at the point where it was giving me trouble so i check to see if any of those other maps were in use and non of them were. So i am stumped but it might have something to do with the ALT not charging all the time and having low voltage, which is fire half assed. Now that i think about it the light flicker on the dash (ebrake,belt...ect) so that must mean the batterys no sending a strong signal. Got any other ideas, i have the Datlog if anyone wants to see it! Ill keep youll updated on what hapens in the mean time any more suggestions?

 

Check the negative ground for the battery in the trunk , make sure its good.I had problems with that too.

 

Ill check that and all the conections that are made with the battery! Hoping that fixes it???????
Thanks for the Reply

 

i replaced plugs and fixed the power wire to my coils, works great now

 

What was wrong with the power wire to the coils?
Still doing it, could this be a tunning issue, they are 900 prims....