SHPNOUT

iTrader: (3)

Hey Gents,
First post to this section.

A bit of back ground. 13bTT, Pettit hi flow turbo's non sequential.
This is from Pettits old GT2 racecar.

Car has run reliably with Haltech E6S forever. Rock solid tuned for 15lbs max, I was running 13.5 to 14. Gas 110 octain. (overkill)

Cold morning, car would not start with cold plugs in (not surprised). Switched to warm plugs 9's to get started. While doing so I broke the lead to the top crank angle sensor top pin (of the two) lead. I quickly repaired so I cold make my session. Car ran fine. Half way thru the session the front apex seals blow.

Question - could a poor conection in that location of the crank angle sensor cause the motor to go lean and pop? Could it be a bad coil pack? All plugs had spark, Front lower seemed weeker then others after the fact.

This car has had NO issues prior to this day. Runs/ Ran llike a rolex watch. Never overboosts, always runs cool. Perhaps to cool.

I am a long time rx owner but this is my first dive in to motor building and haltech .

Thanks
Niles

slo

iTrader: (1)

Not necessarily lean, a poor connection or even mis routing the wires, can cause noise in the pickup that will make the haltech all fucked, often intermittently.

I mean misfiring, radical advanced or retarded ignition, missing injection events, putting in extra injection events.

One or more of these can be results of trigger issues that can and will blow an engine.

rotary8

first of all 13.5 to 14.0 air to fuel ratio is no good for a turbocharged rotary worst on a cold day you should be at 11.5 air to fuel ratio. It sounds to me like you created your own problems which blew the engine.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

He was referring to how much boost he was running.

Agree with Slo. If your quick and dirty fix on the trigger was too dirty it could of caused all kinds of havoc.

SHPNOUT

iTrader: (3)

Yep, those were boost #'s.

Thanks for the info, I figured as much......

That said, .....What is a good way to go with this connection........Pictures would be great.

Thanks
Niles

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

I think a better question would be how was the lead broken/repaired?

If its boke on the sensor side only, and the connector on the harness is alright, I'd just find another sensor/pickup in the classifeds. But if the harness portion is damaged, I'd be hunting for some new sheilded cable....

SHPNOUT

iTrader: (3)

The female fitting on the end of the lead broke off. I cut the wire, stripped it and reused the old lead. A $4k wiring job.

New cable?

slo

iTrader: (1)

If it broke off then the wire was probably in real bad shape...

SHPNOUT

iTrader: (3)

slo.......thanks for your help.