GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

I've been tunning my 7 with a LM-1 wideband, running conservative timming. After about a total of 4 hours , me and my friend got all the fuel maps pretty good, pretty rich, but I always start on the safe side. All AFR's, were about 10.9- 11.0 up to 8000rpm, at WOT. I set the coolant correction maps at 0 until coolant temp is below 50 degrees, becasue at night it ran richer before. But now today, it was slightly cooler, more humidity, and it was running rich up top over 6500rpm. I didnt want to mess with the air correction maps, as they are factory set, but is this the only fator as to the change in mixture from day to day?? It is really aggravating to have it all set, and it runs different every day. Two days ago it ran leaner for a split second, like 12.0, which is very dangerous isnt it? I run 93 octane. 30 degrees timming at 0psi, going down to 3 degrees at 14psi. Running 3 degree split on trailing. Any Tips??

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

Hey, I know this thread is old but I'm having the same problem. I've been tuning my car during the day when it's about 45 F out and then at night when its 30 F it runs way richer. The extra fuel is killing my power cruisng. I havn't touched boost yet. My WG is disabled. I have a PLX-M300 wideband and I had the cruise portions of the fuel map real nice. It was about 14.7 afr and the car felt real nice and smooth. Then at night my idle is 12.8 istead of 13.6 where it was nice and cruise is UNDER 13.3.

"I didnt want to mess with the air correction maps, as they are factory set, but is this the only fator as to the change in mixture from day to day?? It is really aggravating to have it all set, and it runs different every day. "

-Ryan

RETed

It's most likely the air temp, if the coolant temps are identical...


-Ted

haltechrx7

I also have been having problems like these.

I think it has to do with the manifold design and where the air temp is taken.
The air temp should be taken as it enters the intake port, but this would be restrictive.
So we measure it at the TB inlet to minimize restriction.

The air temp correction maps were developed on "someone's" particular setup.
Everyone's sensor/air inlet geometry can be different based on how things are fabricated.

I wonder how different the air temp would be at the TB inlet compared to what goes in the engine's intake port.

I have a long intake manifold (dellorto/racing beat) so I notice this as well.

If the air heats up significantly - things will run rich since the haltech adjusts the mixture based on TB air inlet temp.

This problem is worse during idle/cruise when the mixture is in the manifold the longest which allows for more air heating.

I don't know of a way to deal with this problem.
I do not think it can be tuned out or dealt with by the haltech.

Running closed loop would get rid of this problem at idle and cruise, but I don't like running closed loop.

I am convinced that the closer the air measurement is to the port inlet - the less of an issue this would be

Steve

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

I posted this a long time ago, and since then have been tunning about 3 haltechs, mine and some freinds as well. I drove one of my daily drivers through winter, (-10 degree weather) and during summer, every day, and once I had the air temp correction set right for each weather variable, it ran great and consistant. I also had to change the throttle pump coolant correction, when I drove it before it was fully warmed up. But it is possible to get it near perfection, I had my air temp placed right before that throttle body in all the cars, just as HaltechRx7 said, and it seems to work well.

RETed

Most of the BASE MAPS I've seen shows it leaning as air temps go up...go figure.


-Ted

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

The air temp map should lean out as it gets hotter, simply because the cooler the air is, the more dense it is, thus needed added fuel. Hot air is very thin, so the mix needs leaned out to compensate. The other adjustment, that is rarely used, is the Baro correction, but needs a second map sensor to work. And once you use this, it will even compensate for different barometric pressures, and keep it running dead nuts on, all the time. I never have done this, maybe one day I will.

RETed

I tend to mod the air temp maps to "zero" out normal operating temps - most base maps are in the - zone.

I tend to jack the last two bars for abnormally high air temps, as this is like a last-ditch attempt to save the motor running way too hot.
Note, I also do this with the water temp map too...


-Ted

AnthonyNYC

iTrader: (3)

I've seen local tuners do this as well for the coolant maps, it saved me a motor once. If the car did not shut down from too much fuel, it would have overheated. A local tuner, waynespeed (forum name) showed me that idea.

Anthony

haltechrx7

To GtoRX7

You need not worry about baro correction if your load sensing is with a MAP sensor.
I recently went through this investigation.
The Haltech manual is very misleading about this and most tuners I've talked to did not have consistant answers.

If your load sensing is TPS (why??) you definitely need baro correction.

Since I use a MAP sensor with no additional baro correction - I tried driving from Phoenix (1000ft) to Flagstaff (7000ft) with unchanged drivability (Except for WOT which was not as good at altitude because there is less air)

I use a LM-1 wideband and at altitude it showed about 15% LEANER than at 1000ft.
If baro correction was not already corrected for - the mixture would be rich.

I then found out that the wideband needs to be calibrated when altitude changes significantly and the LM-1 tech guy said it should be "reading lean" at higher altitudes without recalibration.

So it fits.

Steve