Racer723

iTrader: (1)

Ok it's a e8 of s5 t2. I just rewired the trigger and coils up correctly but still no spark. On the trigger diagnostic the trigger counter goes up but the home doesn't. It may be the ground on the coils, how do you properly ground the coils? Does anybody have any info? Im trying to start it now

Racer723

iTrader: (1)

Ok here is how I wired it, please tell me if it's right or not

CAS - Haltech

Red - Yellow
White/Black - Red
White - Blue
Green - Green

For the coils
Haltech - coils

Leading:

Light green - pink
Tan - 12v+

Trailing:

2 tan - 12v+
blue - white
white/black - pink

does this seem right?

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

E8? That's not right. With the E8 the blue wire is ground and the red is 12v+. The white and white/black both go to the blue wire and nothing connects to the red.

Racer723

iTrader: (1)

ok, that's what I got confused about. I was reading other threads and some said don't use the red wire and others said do.

So it's:

CAS - Haltech

Red - Yellow
Not used - Red
White and White/Black - Blue
Green - Green

And are my coils wired correctly?

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Yes, the ignition looks correct. You can follow the Hitman page as a guide. The only difference in the setup with the E8/11 is the trigger loom has the 12v+ on the red wire instead of ground like the E6K/X.

Racer723

iTrader: (1)

Ok I redid the cas now it sparks good. But it won't start, in halwin the voltage drops to about 6.5 volts when I hit the starter, could it be a power issue?

Racer723

iTrader: (1)

plus rpm's go up only to about 150-200, and Im using a good battery

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

If you only have 6.5 volts while cranking it's going to have a hard time starting. 150-200 rpm sounds about right for that low of a voltage. Even though you say it's a good battery I would start there and work my way back through the terminals, wires, connections. Address the voltage drop before you invest a bunch of time with anything else.

Racer723

iTrader: (1)

I checked the timing with a light and its way off, how do I go about timinbg it? Do I go through halwin or turn the cas manually?

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Both. Search. It's well covered.

Racer723

iTrader: (1)

ok trying to do in manually but my timing light comes on at random, do I lock the timing in halwin first. I searched but had no luck

BDC

If you're still stuck after all this, give me a call and perhaps I can help ya out over the phone a bit.

B

Racer723

iTrader: (1)

never mind got it timed perfectly, do I lock it in halwin or is that it?

Racer723

iTrader: (1)

ok I got it runnin for about 2 sec. my voltage keeps dropping. Im also takin videos as i go along too

Racer723

iTrader: (1)

my voltage will be around 13+ but when im starting it gradually goes down and levels out to about 6v+

Racer723

iTrader: (1)

ok i fixed my power issue, still no start. I went to check the timing again and now the light lights up every once in a while and can't get it dialed in again

Racer723

iTrader: (1)

I can't get a consistant reading with my timing light. I know its sparking perfect and my timing light works. Can anyone help please, thanks

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Most timing lights are finicky. I've tossed several cheapo and Craftsman lights. Finally fell in love with a used Ferret light off ebay for a decent price. So many times with other lights I could see the plug arcing but the light would still not trigger. Not so with the Ferret. Also, if the plugs are heavily fouled and not arcing then you probably won't get a strobe pulse on the light. Use clean plugs stuck in the wires and NOT-installed in the engine but simply grounded to the fender or intake. This way you can visually see that the ignition is firing. If it is and the light isn't producing a strobe the light has issues.

To zero the timing with a stock pulley do the following. If you have an aftermarket pulley tell us what it is and someone will give you some numbers to use.

-Stab the CAS according to the FSM.
-Lock the timing in the ignition setup page.
-Set the timing at -5 and the split at 15.
-With those setting L1 should align with the yellow mark on the pulley (-5) and T1 should align with the red mark (-20).
-Crank the engine (don't have to start it) while shooting the light to get the timing close. It usually helps expedite things to pull the plugs from the engine so that it cranks freely. Install the plugs in the plug wires and ground them to the fender or intake so that they'll still produce a spark. VERY IMPORTANT to disable the fuel pump and purge the rails so that fuel is not injected into the engine while you're cranking it like this.
-Adjust the trigger angle or twist the distributor until they align with the pointer.
-Now unlock the timing in the ignition setup page, reinstall the plugs and attempt to start the engine. Using NEW plugs is usually a big help in getting a clean slate tune going since it's likely the fuel is nowhere near correct.
-Once the engine is running get the fuel good enough so that it will idle on it's own and can be gently revved to 4k or so.
-Reconnect the timing light and again lock the timing in the ignition page.
-Shoot the timing again at idle. It's likely the mark has moved slightly from when you set it up cranking the engine. Manipulate the trigger angle or CAS to zero the timing again at idle.
-Slowly rev the engine with the timing locked while shooting it with the timing light. Make sure the timing does not drift from idle up through the rev range. If it drifts wildly you have issues in setup or wiring. If it drifts a small amount (2-3*), which is not uncommon with VR triggers, you can correct that with the advanced trigger setup in the ignition setup page.
-Attach the light pickup to L2. You should see the strobe at 180* opposite L1. Same for T2. With L2 you may actually see the same marks as L1 since they fire in wastespark. That's OK. But if T2 is not 180* out of T1 you have an issue that needs to be addressed.
-Once you know the timing is steady and accurately zeroed you can unlock it and forget it.

streetRx7

iTrader: (5)

Wow good info.. ^^^

thetech

iTrader: (1)

You should not need to be that precise on the timing just to get it to start. If you stab the CAS correctly per the FSM that should be good enough to get it started and you can adjust timing once it is running.

Racer723

iTrader: (1)

Ok thanks, I got the light working again. I got it timed almost dead on, but still nothing. So I got to thinking, I was only using on of the spark plugs to check if the wires had spark to them. So I pulled and tested the other three and guess what, NO SPARK. I'm going to get some new ones. I'm leaving for florida friday and don't know if I can get the plugs and start it in time, I got a friend that has a brand new set on his blown 13b N/A, but I work nights and he works days. But im going to try and get them and start it up and try to post a video. I will redo the timing like ludwig says after I get the plugs in.

And Ludwig, those are some damn good instructions. And once again you made everything alot easier! Thanks!

Racer723

iTrader: (1)

I put new spark plugs in just now, and started up first try! I'm got it on video im trying to convert and resize it cause it's a little too big for upload. wait for a post

Racer723

iTrader: (1)

ok here it is, i had trouble converting it. I was using a free encoder, and its got no sound, sorry. But basically it started first try, and then myself trying to shut it off quickly (cause no radiator yet). and then thanking everyone from the forum and ludwig for helping me through this step by step. I would not think it would start up at all that's why I was in a exciting frantic trying to shut it off. Anyways here it is, enjoy

Racer723

iTrader: (1)

I think i got everything dialed in ok, but is it ok to have the timing locked instead of unlocked? Thats how I have it and it seems to be runing fine

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

You need to unlock it for regular use. If you leave it locked that's where the timing stays all the time. You could in theory leave it locked but you'll have to compromise between low and high load timing. When you unlock the timing the ECU then references the timing maps that you have to program. Make sense?