It has been years since I sold my car, and about as long since I've done any tuning. I was poking around on here and it seems the forums are pretty well dead, so I figured I'd share the final map that I sold the car with...because why not at this point. From startup through dyno tuning, there were 120+ iterations that ultimately brought me to the final tune in the attached file. The car ran factory smooth and clean, was very drivable and pulled like an animal in boost. It continually ripped all the teeth off 3rd gear in factory FD transmissions, killing 2 at 30psi and one at 25psi.

It had a boost **** ranging from 20psi spring, 25 psi (unknown power), 30psi (711rwhp) and 36psi (778rwhp) where all dyno pulls were done in 3rd. Dyno tach kept dropping off at 9k rpms, so that's what the numbers were from but the car would spin to 10.5k rpms every pull.

This is just for information and discussion only. This tune was sculpted to perfectly suit my car and I do not recommend using anything contained within on your tune, without properly vetting it and verifying it is correct and safe for your application. Please be aware this tune was written in ESP, and I've never opened it in the NSP software so...no idea how it would import into there or if that would make issues.

I'll look back through all my info and find the full spec spec list of all that was involved, but essentially it was a semi PP with FD irons ported to cosmo spec, borg S476-SXE turbo, M&W CDI ignition, big runner glease manifold, dual 044 pumps on sumped tank, 6X ID2000s, on E85.

Skeese

 

Here is the complete build list from when I sold the car, not everything here is tune related, but all ties into the final product.

ENGINE
Semi Peripheral 13B-REW
-Large Street Port on Irons
-FD Irons Ported to larger Cosmo Spec
-1" peripheral ports on housings
-Pinned with 2 additional solid dowels in combustion region
-Rotors Lightened, Balanced and Dynamically Balanced
-ALS Apex Seals

ENGINE – OTHER
- Winchester Metalworks Oil Pan
- Built2 Apex Side Mont Alternator Kit
- Mazdaspeed Twin Disc Clutch
- Eccentric Motorsports Catch Can
- Excessive LIM modified for semi peripheral ports bridged between primary and secondary runners and o-ringed intake ports, all work by Chips Motorsports

TURBO SYSTEM
- Borg Warner S476 SX-E W/ T4 1.25 A/R Ceramic Coated Hot Side Housing
- Gleasman Custom Big Runner Manifold and Dump Tubes
- Twin Turbosmart Gen V Comp 40 Wastgates
- 4” Downpipe, 4” midpipe with Vibrant race muffler, 4” rear pipe with Vibrant TPV muffler
- 4-Port MAC Boost control solenoid, controlled by ECU, all wastegate lines are firesleeve wrapped fragola PTFE hose/an fittings

ECU, IGNITION AND ELECTRONICS
- Haltech Elite 2500
- LMS EFI Custom Mil-Spec Wiring Harness
- Haltech TCA-2 EGT Box, twin probes (1/manifold runner)
- Ballenger AFR500V2 Wideband O2 Controller w/NTK O2 sensor (mounted in custom vent pod)
- M&W Pro 14R CDI Ignition Box, MSD 8232 Ignition Coils
- DEFI Link Gauges (Water Temp, Boost, Oil Temp and Fuel Pressure), all in Fly-RX7 52mm quad pod
- Motec Rotary Trim **** for 4 position switchable boost control

COOLING AND INTAKE
- APEXI GT Spec 5” FMIC
- Koyo N-Pass Radiator, 16AN bungs welded in place of original tube stubs
- Davies Craig EWP150 Electronic Water Pump and Controller
- ProJay 13B Water Pump Removal Flange
- GM LS3 Drive by Wire Throttle Body, FFE DBW Adapter, Custom Pedal Mount for RX8 Pedal

FUEL SYSTEM
- 6X ID2000 Fuel Injectors (3 Stage Injection)
- FFE Fuel Rails, 4 Port Secondary
- Full Race Fuel Sump Welded onto Factory Tank
- Twin staged Bosch 044 Fuel Pumps, XRP check valves
- Independent 10AN Sump-Pump PTFE Feed Lines, each to its own Weldon SS 100-micron pre-pump filter
- 8AN Single PTFE Line to engine bay w/ Weldon SS 10-micron post-pump filter
- Weldon A240 Fuel Pressure Regulator
- Aluminum hardlines throughout engine bay
- GM Flex fuel sensor

REAR END/TRANS SUPPORT/SUSPENSION
- Goopy Performance FD Scattershield
- Kazz 1.5-way differential, factory gears, solid pinion spacer
- HHP Differential Brace/Cradle
- Banzai Transmission Brace/Cradle
- ARP Extended Wheel Studs (Rear)

Skeese

 

Also managed to find my old logs from dyno day. Looks like I did hit 38.1 psi during the 778hp pull. By this 9th pull we had started letting out at around 9500 rpms since we already knew the dyno tach wouldn't keep up to 10k+.



Skeese

 

Dude comes back just to flex on us, haha.

For real though, great work and thanks for sharing. I occasionally regret not selling everything I owned to buy that FD while I had the chance...

Cheers,
Alex

 

thank you for the knowledge and inspiration that was provided on this forum, it’s a great loss to the community that you sold the RX7 and moved on to other life challenges, but best wishes always in whatever you pursue.
.

 

@Skeese Appreciate the knowledge Sir!!
I used most of your boost trim **** info/settings when I converted to Ethanol.
I’m only at baby boost(16psi low, 22psi high) it works great having boost trim on the fly. Thanks bro

Steve

 

Thanks everyone, glad to hear that my time on here was helpful to others. Honestly I miss tuning more than anything, so I'm always open to help with that. By the end of my time with the car I was over getting in it just to scare myself to death every now and then.

Skeese

 

@Skeese

I reference your Haltech findings/info frequently. I am about to undertake my single turbo build and it's always helpful to see what others have done.

Get another FD. Come back to us.

Eric

 

@Skeese What a cherry on top of your tasty legacy of contributions to the community! I'm merely a Haltech-alum, but I sincerely appreciate it.

 

Thanks again everyone. Please let me know if you have any questions on the tune. Every last single thing in that file was done the way it was for a definitive reason, most of which I can probably remember.

 

I just tuned my FD to a hair under 600 whp on E85. While dialing in the basics on low boost one thing I found interesting is that all the "guides or courses" tell you how important the end of injection angle is on rotaries and most of them suggest a lower angle like 270deg and as engine speed increases the angle should go higher to say like 330deg. I tried the suggested ways +- more than 50 degrees with small increments of like 10deg and it would misfire and lose torque in the top end consistently, even though AFR's looked fine.. I tried doing it "backwards" with your settings and it cleaned up immediately and picked up substantial top end power. I ended up tweaking the settings and found starting around 440-460deg and ending around 250 @ 7000+RPM yielded the most power without any other changes. I'm not sure if this is because I have larger porting and bridge ported on the primaries and secondaries? Anyone else have that experience?

 

You're basically matching your injector opening cycles with the intake being opened. When you calculate the port opening angles, you find those angles pretty quickly. Engines are happy with open port/valve injection. When you run closed valve/port injection, you get a lot of fuel dumping out the exhaust and weird things happening that won't give you a complete story of what's happening in the engine. Mazda gave the rx8 three injectors per rotor on certain port configurations to reap the benefits of open port injection. I would imagine the biggest gains from staging would be to stage at 25% duty cycle as well.

 

Back years ago when I was tuning in injection time we always ran the primary injectors to like 80% and then ramped in the secondaries. That strategy doesn't work at all now a days and I found actually 20% staging worked the best for me, 25% had a bit of a misfire in certain situations.