SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

Will the stock battery need to be relocated or downsized? It's hard to tell for sure by looking.

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iTrader: (6)

100% yes

you can not run the stock battery with any of my vmounts.

You will have to buy my mini battery kit or relocate your battery to the back.

This is also why within the GB I have package deals, to make the mini bat kit and hood dampers more affordable.

Its a helluva deal for all 3.

look at post 490 for pricing (page 20)
look at post 493 for the list of long term waiters (page 20)

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iTrader: (6)

So who is still in on the GB for these. GB will open arouond middle sept and close end of oct. This should give people time to save.

Also now that everything is done, it is 100000 times faster to copy something then to design it.

Any other questions, please ask.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

I'm still in

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iTrader: (6)

Cool,

I think I lost alot of people over the years. Atleast I did my best and I am sure this kit will not give my company a bad rep.

Ben

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

R&D is either expensive, takes a long time, or cheap (in every sense of the word).

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iTrader: (6)

Yeah, really sorry guys.

for me it was long and expensive.

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iTrader: (6)

Here are the replacement oil cooler lines and the fan controller. Notice the temp sensor has a threaded bung welded to the rad. no push through the fins temp sensor here.

Also I chose this controller because it has a harness style connector. Other fan controllers have you crimp female connections and then plug those onto exposed male connections right next to each other on the controller .

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iTrader: (6)

and here is somehitng i did today too.

my 323 gtx had a straight 2.5 turbo back exhaust with a silencer and a stealthy muffler. i bought a california compliant cat and put vbands on it and cut out a section and put vband on that too. now for weekend racing i can easly swap between the straight pipe and my cat.

no more getting sick from fumes because i will use this car as my dd.

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iTrader: (6)

so now that the kit is pretty much done, finally, i hope to be hearing from you guys that are planning on getting this.

I will open a GB for the kit in like 2 weeks.

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iTrader: (6)

oh yeah, there will be side panels that come with the kit that go in between the ic and rad, also the oil cooler will come with a small scoop to get air from the bottom and I am working on somthing for the top of the oil cooler to try to form some what of a duct/sheild so that the hot air from the rad does not affect it.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

I'm still in too.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Hey Ben,

My oil cooler setup is a tad different, I have an additional FD oil cooler sitting in my passenger brake duct, ran in series with the FC cooler. The line going from the FC cooler to the front cover that you described will be used, but the other line going from the cooler to the rear iron will not, since that line will be coming off of my FD cooler.

The line going from the FC cooler to the FD one will have to be extended since the FC cooler is moved in further towards the engine. So really I would have to make one custom line haha.

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iTrader: (6)

Do you know how to make them, if so then it should be easy for you to do this.

As far as the powder coating, here is where you will choose your colors.

http://garageworkspowdercoating.com/

The powder coating is worked into the price of the kit.

BurntOrangeT2

iTrader: (30)

im still in.

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iTrader: (6)

eage 8 and BurntOrangeT2,

Thanks for chimming in.

I love the color options at garage works. They have some really cool colors.

As far as silicone hoses.

The good quality hoses come in black, blue and red. I had some trouble finding good 4 ply red but I did manage to. Not all 4 plys are the same, some companies have thicker layers then others.

Before I mentioned that the battery power terminal is a little close to the elbow on the monster vmount, for these kits I am going to provide a plastic divider the will go under the battery tie down to prevent any accidental shocks.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Yup!

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iTrader: (6)

It looks like final pricing is this.

Standard list prices:
1. Vmount for stock turbo and airbox = $2000
2. Track/Touge Vmount = $2000
3. Monster Vmount = $2100
4. FC hood dampers = $155
5. FC mini battery kit = $275

For the Vmounts, everything included except for BOV, AST, and Filter for turbo. It comes with basic minimal ducting. It is your responsibility on the track and monster vmounts to get the I/C inlet pipe provided connected to your turbo.

NOTE:!!!!! I will need to know what color you want your steel brackets powder coated.
I will open a GB in the GB section, but this is what you can expect to see in 2 to 3 momths from now.

5 kits sold between the 3 types gets 100 off. Those of you with the additional 100 off can apply your extra 100 for being faithful to me. Thats 200 off total.

GB list prices: (must have 5 buyers)
1. Vmount for stock turbo and airbox = $1900, faithfull people $1800
2. Track/Touge Vmount = $1900, faithfull people $1800
3. Monster Vmount = $2000, faithfull people $1900
4. FC hood dampers = $140 (need 5 buyers)
5. FC mini battery kit = $250 (need 5 buyers)

Need 7 buyers (vmounts) for the following to work. Not all 7 have to be packages, just need 7 vmounts sold and anyone can have the package.

Package 1: You buy a vmount kit and get the battery kit for 240 or the hood dampers for 130
Package 2: You buy all 3 items and the battery kit becomes 220 and the hood dampers are 120.

So... Package 1

1. Vmount for stock turbo and airbox = $1900, battery = $240 total = $2140
faithfull people $2040
Vmount for stock turbo and airbox = $1900, hood damper = $130 total = $2030
faithfull people $1930

2. Track/Touge Vmount = $1900, battery = $240 total = $2140
faithfull people $2040
Track/Touge = $1900, hood damper = $130 total = $2030
faithfull people $1930

3. Monster Vmount = $2000, battery = $240 total = $2240
faithfull people $2140
Monster Vmount = $2000, hood damper = $130 total = $2130
faithfull people $2030


Package 2

1. Vmount for stock turbo and airbox = $1900, battery = $220, hood damper = $120
total = $2240
faithfull people $2140

2. Track/Touge Vmount = $1900, battery = $220, hood damper = $120
total = $2240
faithfull people $2140

3. Monster Vmount = $2000, battery = $220, hood damper = $120
total = $2340
faithfull people $2240

So this is what you guys gotta save up for.

Ben

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iTrader: (6)

I chose to stick with steel brackets because the overall the price will be cheaper. The material is cheaper and I can weld these, the powder coating with shipping to and from garage works is still cheaper then the aluminum material and paying for it to be welded. The price also went up 200 because the cost of materials has gone up over the past 2 years and also there is alot of stuff that comes with the kit. Also at the previous GB price I would have been in the negative. I am really really sorry about the price hike. All I can say is that the kit will have everything you will need.

You can choose what ever color you want for your brackets and also you can choose from red, blue or black silicone hoses for the rad and ic.

Please remember why it cost what it does and compare what you are getting to the competition.

Again in a nutshell.
(some of it is not shown in the pictures.)

Polished IC and RAD.
polsihed IC pipes.
Kit comes with both versions of pipes from IC to greddy elbow for the track and monster vmount. ( the nice straight pipe for use without ps)
New ss lines for relocated oil cooler.
Flex-a-lite fan with adj. temp controller
4 ply silicone everything, (red, blue or black)
All hardware included.
silicone vacuum lines provided to relocate misc items
Morroso spark plug wire holders, you can choose where you want to put them.
T-Bolt clamps for IC and perferated worm drive clamp for rad. The rad clamps have raised teeth so the silicone will not get damaged.
All support and re-location brackets powder coated to what ever color you want.
Everything re-drilled and test fitted on my test jig. ( may need to message some holes a tad but everything will line up)
Basic ducting for IC and Rad and oil cooler.
Complete online instructions.


Notes:
Works with a/c and ps.
No cutting of the frame anywhere.
No permanent modification so your car can be returned to stock.
Complete kit, no need to buy anything.


This is going to be the only GB offered, no second round. This kit has alot of stuff to it. If you want it after the GB pricing, be prepared to pay the list price or very close to it.

Price does reflect quality of parts used. Again sorry for the price hike.

Ben

Rotary Extreme Sales 1

iTrader: (6)

disregard post 544, the changes did not take because I took longer then 30 min to make the changes, here is the up to date pricing.

Standard list prices:
1. Vmount for stock turbo and airbox = $2300
2. Track/Touge Vmount = $2300
3. Monster Vmount = $2400
4. FC hood dampers = $155
5. FC mini battery kit = $275

For the Vmounts, everything included except for BOV, AST, and Filter for turbo. It comes with basic minimal ducting. It is your responsibility on the track and monster vmounts to get the I/C inlet pipe provided connected to your turbo.

NOTE:!!!!! I will need to know what color you want your steel brackets powder coated.
I will open a GB in the GB section, but this is what you can expect to see in 2 to 3 momths from now.

5 kits sold between the 3 types gets 200 off. Those of you with the additional 100 off can apply your extra 100 for being faithful to me. Thats 300 off total.

GB list prices: (must have 5 buyers)
1. Vmount for stock turbo and airbox = $2100, faithfull people $2000
2. Track/Touge Vmount = $2100, faithfull people $2000
3. Monster Vmount = $2200, faithfull people $2100
4. FC hood dampers = $140 (need 5 buyers)
5. FC mini battery kit = $250 (need 5 buyers)

Need 7 buyers (vmounts) for the following to work. Not all 7 have to be packages, just need 7 vmounts sold and anyone can have the package.

Package 1: You buy a vmount kit and get the battery kit for 240 or the hood dampers for 130
Package 2: You buy all 3 items and the battery kit becomes 220 and the hood dampers are 120.

So... Package 1

1. Vmount for stock turbo and airbox = $2100, battery = $240 total = $2340
faithfull people $2240
Vmount for stock turbo and airbox = $2100, hood damper = $130 total = $2230
faithfull people $2130

2. Track/Touge Vmount = $2100, battery = $240 total = $2340
faithfull people $2240
Track/Touge = $2100, hood damper = $130 total = $2230
faithfull people $2130

3. Monster Vmount = $2200, battery = $240 total = $2440
faithfull people $2340
Monster Vmount = $2200, hood damper = $130 total = $2330
faithfull people $2230


Package 2

1. Vmount for stock turbo and airbox = $2100, battery = $220, hood damper = $120
total = $2440
faithfull people $2340

2. Track/Touge Vmount = $2100, battery = $220, hood damper = $120
total = $2440
faithfull people $2340

3. Monster Vmount = $2200, battery = $220, hood damper = $120
total = $2540
faithfull people $2440

eage8

iTrader: (9)

and just to confirm, that does or does not come with the greddy elbow?

If not, if we were to buy the greddy elbow from you with the kit, how much would it be.

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iTrader: (6)

100 even

your 100 for waiting basically gets you a free elbow.

I guess thats one way of looking at it. For everyone who stayed faithful has a choice, 100 off or free greddy elbow.

this price is only if your buying the kit and not for seperate purchase.

Ben

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iTrader: (6)

Im going to the junkyard to cut a front end off an FC. I can garuntee you fitment since I will be test fitting every kit just like I do my FD kits on my personal FD.

I also got a spare airbox and I can so how everything lines up even with the mini battery.

With this I will also try to adapt my FD twin oil cooler kit to the car. I will be getting the rebar and front bumper cover.

It is 50% off for labor day at pick n pull... hahahhaaha

I hate buying somehting only to find out it does not fit!!!!

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

I'm with you on that one.

Good going, Ben!

Rotary Extreme Sales 1

iTrader: (6)

Another good thing about getting the front nose of the car is that it will allow me to make the ducting a lot easier so I should be able to add better ducting with the kit. Price will not go up; I just give free labor to make the stuff...lol

OK, so I see a lot of kits with a panel in between the rad and IC. I do not agree with this for 2 reasons. These are just my thoughts.

1. I have not seen how effective it is in a wind tunnel and I have not seen anyone with air temp sensors monitoring the IC and rad temps before and after.

2. You cannot just slap a panel/diverter in the middle horizontally and call it good.

I know we are working on the FC, but here is what happens on the FD. Look at the opening on the FD, it is a oval with rounded edges. As the air enters the front it is deflected around the leading edge like an airfoil on an airplane wing. The open mount on the front bumper is not straight edge, it is rounded. So The air enters the middle deflected from the top and bottom so most of the air is going to the center. Based on where that panel is in between the IC and Rad will affect airflow. The IC will be more affected because there is no fluid, thermostat or fans’ regulating its temperature like the rad has. This really matters at freeway speeds and above, track like conditions. You will have to extend the duct out to the front for this to work; it cannot be recessed inside between the cores.

On the FC it’s a bit different. The FC is more of a bottom feeder and has a little bigger opening. So you will again have to bring that horizontal panel to the front of the bumper if you want it done right. The FC vmount sits way behind the opening of the front bumper unlike the FD. So it is more important how you set-up that horizontal panel. To make it work you really need to make a panel from the bottom of the rad to the bottom of the opening on the front bumper.

Those are the reasons why I do not offer that horizontal center panel in between the IC and rad and why I advise against it. The best way to handle this would be to follow what is already being done on the FC and FD front bumpers. They have vertical air guides. On some cars they have a honeycomb grill to straighten the airflow. Same with MAF's, they have screens or honeycomb guides as well. I recommend just installing 3 or 4 air guides going from the front of the IC to the lower part of the rad that is towards the front of the car. They do not need to go all the way to the section where the IC and Rad meet. The air guides only need to be like 2 inches wide or deep, from the leading edge to the trailing edge. This will be enough to straight the airflow. The rad has a fan so it is really not that big of a deal, but the IC needs the help. You just don’t want to accidentally block airflow. Also you need the vented hood to help pull air through the core as air flows over the vented hood. What I would do is see where your vented hood lines up with the IC, then put a rubber seal on your hood or make brackets for it to be help onto the outside diameter of the IC.

So your probably wondering what kind of ducting exactly comes with the FC vmount kit.

It comes with the follow.
1. Left and Right side shields on the brackets supporting the rad and IC. This will isolate the air flow to stay in between the cores.
2. A Shield from the frame under the plastic air guides that direct air to where the a/c condenser used to be to the bottom leading edge of the IC.
3. Shield on top of the oil cooler to prevent hot rad air from hitting it.
4. Small lip to scoop airflow up to the rad, maybe a 2 inch lip.
5. Small lip to scoop airflow up to the oil cooler, maybe 2 inch but it will be at a slight angle. i do not want it too steep or it will scrap everything.

Right now the front sub frame is the lowest point on the car. The rad lower lip will still be above that. The oil cooler lip will be about the same height as the sub frame.

That’s it for now.

Ben

p.s. Yes, this kit is worth the money.