Updates?

still working on them every spare moment I get.

Keep up the good work Ben

So uhhh,

I have to admit that I had a design flaw in ma kit.

I tried to fix it with the scoop under the belly pan. The scoop was not tried but Im changing the oil cooler location one more time.

I really didn't like the idea of the oil cooler behind the radiator and i didn't really like the fact that the belly pan had to be modded with a scoop. I was trying to maximize airflow to the vm.

Youll notice the oil cooler is upside down. Don't worry the bottom fitting which was the top before goes to the front cover like its supposed to. The side fitting goes to the back of the engine. Its ok to be upside down, works off of pressure not gravity..lol.

I didn't know the FC oil cooler struggles in time attack, unlike the FD with its twin coolers.

Well I have relocated the oil cooler to the front. Its the best scenario, if there are cooling issues in this config then.

1. add fans behind the oil cooler.
2. faulty oil thermostat.
3. need to upgrade the oil cooler.

enjoy the pics :)

and more pics.

I left some room under the cooler so some fresh air can still get past it. But the cooler gets fresh air now instead of having hot air blowing on it.

You will have to bend the ps cooler line up by bending the brackets up until the hard line is touching the horns. Where the ps line loops on the pass side, you will have to bend that back a little too. This will make room for the cooler.

look at the photo where its looking at the cooler inside the bay, you can see how I bent the ps line/brackets.

Sorry about this guys, but it should be all good now.

ok guys heres what the oil brackets and lines look like.

this will also allow me to redo the bottom water line on the back of the rad since the oil cooler is not there. It will be a much easier install.

the lines are now covered with heavy duty shrink tubing to aid against the ss lines rubbing on everything.

looks good ben, looking forward to throwing it on the car and testing it out :)

I replaced the oil thermostat on my car just in case while I had the cooler off.

Bump for a progress report

I have to redo the oil cooler brackets.

S5's dont have the welded bolts in the same location as the S4's.

I'll take care of that next weekend.

Im waiting for the fabricator to make time to weld a bunch of kits for me.

Do you still have the A/C installed too! Nice.

Yes, everything works with everything, look at the photos, it shows how the ac works, I even have the a/c fan in the mix too....lol

s4 and s5 are the same but diiferent in the front part of the frame rails. S4 has welded nuts in alot of hols in the front and S5's for some reason just have holes.

I had to make new brackets again for the oil cooler in the front that will work with both cars. It will use bolts that secure the top part of the air guide. You will need to cut a section of the round molded part that the tube attaches to the cools the battery. The oil cooler will bolt to brackets comming down from those, you can still retain the air guide which is needed to support the front of the undertray. I flipped the oil cooler back to the original way so that the an fitting is on top instead of the bottom. I did not have the airguide before, I got it at the junk yard when I was comparing the 2 cars s4/s5.

the ps im still working on, i dont like it behind the oil cooler and ill mess with it tomorrow.

I should have pics tomorrow of it all.

Finally completed it. Total cost of retrofit is 2 extra feet of SS line (20) and 1 90 degree -10 an fitting (25), adding shrink wrap to the lines for protection as seen in previous photos. So 45 x10 is 450 and what ever extra shipping of parts to me....... well I am with the end result.

It works for S4 and S5. It uses 2 bolts that secure the top of the air guide. The brackets are simpler but a little pain to install, the belly pan must be off to do it. The ps line needs to be un-bolted and ziptied to the big round brace for clearance.

The air can still go around the cooler and go under everything so the belly pan can act like a front diffuser and with a vented hood the high pressure air going over the hood will scavenge cool air as it enters into the low pressure zone in the engine bay.

enjoy the pics.

p.s. This are prototype photos, the final brackets will be cut where there is extra material.

Looks great! I'm pretty excited about this. Now that I have a vert w a turbo swap on the way I can't decide what car I want to put this in! Maybe I'll have to buy another one from you!

If you buy a second one, I will surely give you a great deal since youve waited so long.

ok so note to everyone, if your under 400whp can you guys consider using 2.5 piping. It will have better response.

I will make it 2.5 or 2.75 per your request guys.

But I recommend 2.5 under 400whp.

Ben

45 plus material for brackets and shipping of parts to me its more like 60 retrofit kit....lol

IM just happy that I came across these issues now and not when all the kits were out.

Its the only way to get better, learn from our mistakes.

2.75 for me :)

2.75. I'm planning for the future, and the future looks bright.

Im down for 2.5

Hope I can see this setup on Speedys car soon.

Me too

another good update, pics tomorrow


im including a small ps cooler to get the line away from behind the oil cooler.

also this made just enough room for me to put the piping under all the ps pump hard lines.

hopefully pics tomorrow.

for you guys with no ps, you don't have to worry about this.

heres the small ps cooler. better then the ps lines sitting right behind the oil cooler. it will come with clamps, they are not in the pic.

you can see where I had to use silicone next to the ps pump hard lines so they would not get damaged with engine tq. with the new ps line it makes room under the pump. now we don't have to use silicone in that section. this also eliminates and additional silicon section and 2 t-bolt clamps.

I will work on the fan shroud this weekend, the fabricator does not have time right now to make it. I will make a prototype and he will make the final shroud. this will help the water temp cool faster in traffic and at idle.

It will be tough because I need to clear the water pump pulley with the added thickness of the shroud. I may need to offset the fan an inch or cut a small section of the fan frame, it will have no affect on the strength of the fan frame where it will be cut.

I hate to be 'that guy' but I'm starting to put my vert together for my wedding. Do you have an estimate (even a rough one helps) on when you will be finished?