where you dont see pipe there will be some hardcore 4 ply silicone.

i tried many configs and this was the best, most reliable and safest set-up for the movment of the engine while reving and racing. There is a big difference in the stock set-up vs the car I designed the kit on, there were many missing things.

I was affraid of this, so this is one of the main reasons I needed a T2, to make sure fitment would be good.

2.5 is not that much smaller then 2.75, air will flow just a tad faster. There has to be a 45 degree silicone elbow to get it past the ps. As the engine tq's, the ps hard lines would be hitting the piping and causing damage to you car. The silicone will absorb the shock. I am using really heavy duty silicone so the hose will not deform after extended use.

Now to just finialize a few things here and there and I can start getting this things out!!!!

Loving all the updates :)

looks good.

Looks great Ben. As for the bov or stock diverted I would like to use a synchronic blow off valve. But I haven't purchased anything yet.

Please email me about this so I can make it with your kit.

email sent.

For your harness, maybe you could invest in a good de-pinner and make some for people that wanted?

its sounds like a geat idea, but, i have no time for this type of work at all :(

my motor is blown so I'll just get the harness with a used jdm engine just to get my car moving

Liking the updates Ben. Any idea on how you're going to get around the power steering?

He's got a piece that's shaped to fit between the PS and the strut tower I believe.

read post 251, I say how im going to do it....lol

Got it. Must have zoned at that part! :) Can't wait to see the finished product.

here more pics, basically this is the finished product minus the silicon hoses

this kit came out better then before, some has to do with more experience that I have gained building the FD vm's and the other is physicaly having an FC T2.

I dont know how you S5 guys will do your MAF meters / filters, but there is enough room to do something.

I was able to retain the factory spark plug wire holders by relocating them.

Here the last 2 pic.

Looks great.

Is the piping you'll be including for the non P/S route going to be 2.75" because it doesn't have that limitation?

Correct, are you not using PS, I forgot.

Right now I can not ao offer everyone both piping like I wanted to. So if you do not have PS, tell me and I can make the complete pipinig in 2.75 from IC to Greddy elbow.


The turbo side will remain the same but slightly different now.

I am going to try and make the turbo side piping have a 45 degree like the intake side, this will hopefully allow me to get that bracket with the adjuster thing back in its stock location.

Also I will be welding the 2.5 to 2.75 together where the pipes hit the cooler. This will ditch the reducer couplers and allow me to run straight couplers.

Its an improvment.

The final piping will be nice.

I will be contacting all of you as your kits are being built to verify your exact request.

Thank you all again for being patient....

Im still happy we have full ac funtionality even with the ac fan....hahahaha

The ac fan must be offset to rotate the top bracket to clear the bottom of the core. Thats why you see one bracket is shorter tehn the other.

Ben

OK final set-up

This is the turbo side.

1. New piping allows the factory bracket to go back to its original spot.
2. The piping matches the other side. (45 degree)
3. no more ic to pipe reducers needed.

2.75 to 2.5 piping is so small that when welded end to end its all good. I will sand the inside edge so that its a nice transition. This will not affect air flow.

hot side is 2.75 45 degree welded to 2.5 45 degree to reducer elbow (2.5 to 2) to turbo.

It will be the same on the outlet to greddy elbow side.

2.75 45 degreewelded to 2.5 straight to 45 silicon to 2.5 pipe to reducer elbow (2.5 to 2.75) to greddy elbow.

see pics

Is it possible to re-rout or redo the ps piping to have the larger pipe?

I have already been thinking about this.

I can fit a 2.75 silicon elbow in there and it can take the hits from the PS se-up. I am waiting for some parts to arrive to confirm a possible new piping size.

But haveing a hard2.75 pipe in that area and still have a decent pathway.... its noo good.
Ill update with pcs next week if I change anything.

Happy Thanks Giving everyone.

Ben


Ben

Okay cool. Thanks Ben.

Happy thanksgiving.

wow, I read this again....

I was a little tipsy from the wine that night....lol

happens to the best of us :)

I have been following this are you providing ducting?

Hi,

The only "ducting" that I am providing can be seen in post 261 where I show whats under the IC. I have some side panels that close off the area of the frame that extends out to support the top of the rad and IC. These side panels go to the support for the factory rad position. Anything more I will have to charge a pretty penny for and I have noooo time to design that for my kit right now. But what it comes with will be fine.

Ben

well,

I just have to relocate my relocation bracket for the spark plug wires by the mb cylinder. The original relocation bracket bolted up on the side of the struct. That nut is going to rub the silicone hose, I will relocate that bracket so that area will be smooth.

using the 2.5 silicone in the ps section beeaarrllyyy fits with out being deformed, it will take the rubbing when the engine moves while driving and shifting gears.

using the 2.75 silicone hose in that section becomes ovalized. so it will work, there will be less transistions as well. there will not be an issue with airflow and you will not have to worry about the hose becoming compressed.

and again, hard piping in that area will damage the ps hard lines comming of the ps pump. you will not suffer and perf. loss with this set-up.

I will have an engine damper comming out for this car when I come back from russia. Onceall the vm's are done I'll work on more things for the FC.

What about a strut bar engine brace combo? Or would that be too much?

Hey ben! Your vmount kit is coming out awesome! I would suggest using a coupler reducer to the turbo instead of welding to reduce and using a straight coupler. Doing to would not only make your work easier, but please those with hybrid turbos who's compressor outlet might be slightly larger than stock. Just an idea. Keep up the good work!