I talk about why Im doing this in some previous post, you might have to read back a few.




I respect your decision but this is why I am doing it my way.

All the customers tell me what their outlet size is and I am working with them on an individual basis. Most of them have stock and bnr upgrade which is still close enough to use the 2" to 2.5" 90 degree elbow. This piece is about 30 bucks, I dont use cheap parts and I will not include them in my kit. The 2" to 2.75" 90 elbow reducer is 65 bucks. Seeing how I am covering the turbo to IC connection on my own dime, I am going to do it the most cost effective way but yet have the best flow path possible.

going from 2 to 2.75 is a big jump and can create internal turbulance in that transition.

Instead I am using a 2 to 2.5 elbow to a 2.5 pipe butt welded to a 2.75 pipe that will use a stright coupler to the IC.

I do not want to provide a kit that has alot of transitions/reducers.

I did manage to re-design some brackets on the intake side to squeeze the 2.75 silicone elbow in there safely. So the cold side will be all 2.75 now.

Please keep in mind that I have designed this piping to try to limit large difference in transitions and also to protect engine parts and kit parts from being damaged from long term use and spirited driving.

So, the final set is:

Turbo to 2 to 2.5 90 silicone elbow to 2.5 pipe welded to 2.75 pipe to 2.75 coupler to IC



IC to 2.75 coupler to 2.75 pipe to 2.75 silicone 45 degree to 2.75 pipe to 2.75 90 degree silicone to 2.75 greddy elbow.

Thats it, thats what the kits comming with, thats what I come up with.

Dont worry, it will be fine, I wouldnt make it or sell it if I thought it would be no good.

Jimminy Crickets, I bought a damn $%&&()*)_ T2 just to friggin finish this VM GB "the right way".... yes, all the little pieces are way better then before.


So I will update when I have pics of the completed piping installed by the end of the week.

Any updates?

pmd

Hey Ben how is it all coming?

I still need to get you a synchronic. I'll get on that when I can.

no worries, no rush

I have a few kits to do before I get to yours...........

No news is good news? :)

Im just super busy catching up to everything. I actually started turning away some FD vm's because Im that far behind on the FC GB that well all are so pleased with the progress......

Anywho...

I remade all the brackets that relocate stuff and Im just getting together the stuff for the turbo to IC side.

I'm working on them, they are priority. All issues that I encountered have been fixed.

Keep up the good work Ben, no issues here. Sorry you have to turn business away on something that has lost you money.

Keep up the good work man. I'm excited to see it because I know the quality will be fantastic.

Pm me info on that synapse that I need to get to you. I just got a bonus :)

Thank you all for your patience. I learned a valuable lessen.


NEVER DO A GB ON A NEWLY DESIGNED PRODUCT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

its been nothing but, damn I need to fix this.....on all the kits... sheesh

That's why R&D is expensive :)

I appreciate you putting all your effort in this GB. Sorry you've had to turn away business and lost money getting these kits put together. Can't wait to put this in the FC!

Thanks, overall I learned alot business wise, also about design and manufacturing.

I did lose but at least once you guys get your kits you can compare to the other FC vm kits out there.

I have it to where its all bolt on and the end user should not need to modify anything.

Also, I am reducing the piping size based on alot of research to 2.5. The turbo will be a 2 to 2.5 reducer elbow then 2.5 to the IC. Then from the IC will be 2.5 pipe to a 2.5 to 2.75 reducer elbow.

Please please look at these threads.

Airflow velocity for different intercooler piping diameters (2.0 2.25 2.5 2.75 3.0 inches) - Honda-Tech

http://www.turboneticsinc.com/sites/...tercooling.pdf


This just plants the seed.

I have 2 kits ready to go out soon but they are the 2.75 piping.

I believe perf. will be hurt if we use 2.75 and making under 350whp.

I understand some will still want 2.75, but after I did some reading I recommend 2.5.

Have any kits shipped yet?

yes, I pmd you

all current kits are being bilt with 2.75 piping if anyone was wondering.

the 2.5 piping will be an option.

hers what it looks like with the 2.75 piping

Giggity

Getting so excited for this! Just got my cabinets put in my garage. Now to organize it and start building my motor!

thanks, I know finally right.

it looks like a lot of silicon from the ic to greddy elbow but its a very compact area. I need for there to be flax and absorption as the motor shift on the motor mounts. The silicon will protect the ps pump/lines and allows for flex to make the awkward pathway. Besides, the silicone does not get as hot or stay hot like aluminum....however it probably doesn't cool as fast. I just know I can touch it and I don't say ouch after a hard run.

Sweet, I'm ready!

Ben, can you PM me an address to send that recirculating valve to? Thanks

PMd

final update.

after some feed back I had to include a retrofit kit. My car did not come with an undertray, I did not know the FC had one like the FD. The wonderful things you find out when designing stuff on incomplete cars.

So the current design would be ok without an undertray but when an undertray is used it completely blocks airflow to the oil cooler..... very bad.

The retrofit kit includes lowering the oil cooler so that it just touches the undertray but does not push it down. It shifts it towards the passenger side. You will need to remove the hose the goes to the baffle under the passenger headlight. You will also need to zip tie the electrical harness up. You will have to cut your undertray in 4 spots but you must leave the raised molded beams to retain strength. Supplied are two L-beams that goes from the subframe to the front bumper. the scoop is bolted to this and these also add support to everything. The scoop in the pics show thinner aluminum then what will be supplied with the kits.

All this will be in the instructions supplied to install the kits.

So enjoy the pics.

more pics

heres what the ducting will look like.

there are braces on top of the undertray.

my car is lowered a tad but even with the 1 inch drop or so the bottom off the duct cuts off the top digit of my thumb .... see pic, so theres plenty of clearance.

also the scoop has 1 inch spacers to give it more bite.

this will fix the cooling issue for the oil cooler.