Oh hell yes. I'm partial to red anyway, but will you offer any other colors?

 

i would like one in that tein green color just sayin cant wait to buy one

 

wow, thats ******* gorgeous. id like to order an unanodized one so i can powder coat it my own color

Lloyd

 

You can PC over the anodizing actually, but I will try to remember to put one aside.


Chances are what I'll do is stock them all in Red, but if someone has a special request I'll do what I can to help them. Right now I'm just wrapping up testing and waiting for more material to come in.

 

Have you come up with a solid price?

 

I'll take one as well, red is just fine for me. ;-)

 

actually to properly PC you have to remove the anodize, you CAN PC right over it but it will not last as long, I go through this all the time with boat parts

 

Great work! Hoping the s4 mounting is the same! My vote goes for a black annodized version of either of the 'economy' models. But if I do have to get the pimped out red annodized full race version, guess I'll have to make do.

 

Not yet, I still need to update and run the new programs once the material is in stock. One way or another I'll at least be doing a small run of them.


I was not aware of that, thanks for sharing. Does the oxide layer inhibit adhesion to a certain degree?

 

You could make a thinner, solid and ultimately, cheaper one no?
This is a nice piece though, I'll keep an eye on this thread.

 

I dont do powder, I am just going off what 3 different PC told me. So now when I get custom parts made in alum for my customers boats I dont have them made in anodize. Funny thing is you would think it was better.

Now in the engine bay of a car its obviously not as harsh as the salt water environment of a boat so I dont think its as big a issue, but if you also introduce stainless hardware holding alum parts you will have a issue as well so best to cover all your bases.

 

There are many ways I could make it cheaper. Laser cut steel with a nut welded to it would be the cheapest solution, but honestly it wouldn't be good enough for my personal car at that point, which measn I wouldn't be comfortable selling them. I try to design everything to be a good compromise between quality and price.


Interesting. I'll have to remember to ask my powder coating guy about it. We don't do many powder coated parts and even when we do, we leave it to the pros. I do know that anodizing 5052 VS 6061 makes a difference. The 5052 actually breaks down faster in the etching stage and if left too long can ruin the part.

 

its funny, i powder coat things all the time, aluminum, iron, steel, etc, and ive never had a problem coating over the top of anodized material, but i also always give it a once over with the glass bead media, just for adhesion purposes, havent heard a complaint yet.
but hey, if you cant do non-anodized, np, ill just blast it and pc it anyways, not like its a very well seen part anyways lol
either way, i am going to buy 1, no matter what. you have 1 guaranteed sold brace

Lloyd

 

It is very easy to strip anodization. Google is your friend.

 

I was going to suggest that if you make two solid cut outs on each side (sort of similar to what you sketched up) basically making the part an H shape with a lip around it. Does that make sense? If not oh well.

95 seems a bit high, but after seeing that red one, holy ****. That's sex right there. Make me a dark blue one.

 

Just wanted the OP to know I'm very interested.

 

have you ever put these parts on a boat?
I know a car aint a boat, but Im just going off of what more then one powdercoater has told me, and one of them has a huge operation in 2 states so Ill take his word for it

 

ah, well, the parts going on a boat makes a huge difference.
i usually powder coat wheels, engines, suspension parts, never anything involving a boat. i have powder coated anodized parts, not for high level race cars or boats or anything like that

Lloyd

 

interested in the red

 

when are these going to start being produced? money waiting in hand!
oh, and to strip the anodization, all you need is some oven cleaner and a little bit of waiting

Lloyd

 

Sorry for the lack of updates, I've been running around doing some leg work.

I've now done a test fit on the following:

S4 NA Vert
S4 Turbo Coupe
S5 NA Coupe
S5 Turbo Coupe

So I'm expecting there should be no fitment issues between any of the USDM years/models.

Material is now at the shop for a new batch as soon as time allows. I'll be putting the prototypes up for sale shortly at a discount. I'll let you guys know once that is ready. I'm aiming to have the first production batch ready in 2 weeks, although right new we are backed up working on rear diff mounts, dtss bushings and the planning stage of a front diff mount as well as working on some new shift *****.

 

I'd be interested in a prototype piece. I'd love to rock one of these by Sevenstock this year

 

oooohhhhh, semi solid geruw style front diff mount? thatd be ****** sweet, too bad that guy was a criminal and never actually made any parts.............

Lloyd

 

Also interested in a prototype.

 

Liking this...am interested.