I have a 1987 RX7 GXL. I bought it a couple months ago and haven't really tweaked much with the engine. I removed the cold start assist bottle and blocked it off. After doing that the car still started like normal and it was fine. After about a week it would start then I did the EGI fuse trick to start it and it fired up. After that it would start with a little bit if gas while turning over. I went to start it one morning an it just kept cranking had no sign if it actually wanting to start. All the electrics work interior and exterior it just won't start. Keeps cranking over but won't fire. Later I did a spark test and found that I'm not getting spark but I have power going to the coil packs when key is in the on position. Now I'm stuck and have no clue what it is. I know there are a lot of threads about cars not starting but most are answered "oh it's flooded" or "go search for engine problem threads" I've done that and nothing is working. So I need someone's help.

 

Which coil did you test for spark? When you said there was power going to the coil packs did you mean at the Black/Yellow wire. Do you also know the coil igniters need to be bolted to the fender to receive the ground necessary to operate? Also, if the AFM is problematic that can cause the coils/injectors to not work. You can test the Brown wire at the TPS w/key to on and it should read 5 volts. It is this wire which powers the AFM. Of most importance though is the EGI COMP fuse also needs to be good as it powers the ECU which is necessary to fire the coils. There is a Green check connector near the lead coil which has four wires. One of the wires is Black/White. This wire should have 12 volts w/key to on. This is the wire which powers the ECU. And the Brown wire at the TPS could not be powered as stated if the COMP fuse was blown.

 

I tested the trailing coil pack and it had power going to it with the key on, I can't remember the colts tho. I've also tested the EGI fuse and it was good. I have the 3,800 rpm issue when it was running so I don't know if time just made it worse? I've also tested the connector just under the choke at the start if the throttle body and it read like .09 to I think .12 volts which we thought was kinda low. I also have the start solenoid click when you turn the key to the on position and supposedly that's bad? I'm just at a loss for why it had spark and ran before then one day it just decides to change its mind. I'll retest the things you said and right down the numbers I get for each and see if anything is out if spec.

 

I tested the trailing coil pack and it had power going to it with the key on, I can't remember the colts tho. I've also tested the EGI fuse and it was good. I have the 3,800 rpm issue when it was running so I don't know if time just made it worse? I've also tested the connector just under the choke at the start if the throttle body and it read like .09 to I think .12 volts which we thought was kinda low. I also have the start solenoid click when you turn the key to the on position and supposedly that's bad? I'm just at a loss for why it had spark and ran before then one day it just decides to change its mind. I'll retest the things you said and right down the numbers I get for each and see if anything is out if spec. Yeah it has power to the connector on top of the pack.

 

I tested the trailing coil pack and it had power going to it with the key on, I can't remember the colts tho. I've also tested the EGI fuse and it was good. I have the 3,800 rpm issue when it was running so I don't know if time just made it worse? I've also tested the connector just under the choke at the start if the throttle body and it read like .09 to I think .12 volts which we thought was kinda low. I also have the start solenoid click when you turn the key to the on position and supposedly that's bad? I'm just at a loss for why it had spark and ran before then one day it just decides to change its mind. I'll retest the things you said and right down the numbers I get for each and see if anything is out if spec. It's got power going to the connect on top the pack

 

What specifically does this mean:

"I've also tested the connector just under the choke at the start if the throttle body and it read like .09 to I think .12 volts which we thought was kinda low"

And this as well:

"I also have the start solenoid click when you turn the key to the on position and supposedly that's bad?"

And your car should have two EGI fuses. Did you test the correct one? EGI INJ powers the coils and injectors while the EGI COMP fuse powers the ECU.

 

When you turn the key to the on position the gear in the starter slides to engage, that's the click.

What is the other EGI fuse? I've test the one under the hood closest to the passenger side. It was good. What is the other?

 

The starter doesn't receive a signal to the solenoid w/key to on. Key to start, yes. The Main Relay clicks w/key to on so that's probably what you are hearing.

Do you have an S4 or an S5? S4 has two EGI fuses while the S5 has but one. If you have an S4 then I already stated in my last post what the two EGI fuses are. And the engine fusebox has a cover which illustrates what fuses that are contained within said fusebox.

 

It's an S4 but the fuse box doesn't have a cover the guy lost it somehow... Is the click I'm hearing normal or is it bad?

 

The Main Relay is supposed to click w/key to on so I'll say it's okay. The FAQ has a pic of the fusebox cover. And if you tested the Brown wire at the TPS for 5 volts w/key to on or tested the B/W wire w/key to on at the Green check connector as suggested you would know if the COMP fuse was good or not.

 

The other fuse for the injectors and wires is in the same box right? I've looked around and don't see which one controls what. I don't have easy access to the stuff I need I'm pretty broke to buy my own. The under the hood fuse box which numbers are the EGI fuses?

 

I tried to tell you there is a pic in the FAQ of the fusebox. I have also tried to tell you that if you check one of two wires it would tell you if the fuse was good or not.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...faq-fc-494667/

 

I'm sorry to bug you dude but I'm new to my car. Im not a mechanic but in not the dumbest person either. I'm also new to this forum and mobile app so I couldn't find the FAQ you were refuting too. I appreciate the help though its at least helping me cross some more things out.

 

Just tested the fuse and its ok. Any other ideas if why it isn't getting spark?

 

How have you tested for spark? Did you test the Brown wire for 5 volts w/key to on at the TPS. Again, this wire powers the AFM and if the AFM isn't operating properly then the car won't start.

 

I attached a spark tester to the end of the coil wire and cranked over for 3 seconds. Did that to each of the coil wires and got nothing from any of them.

 

I hooked up a spark tester to each one if the coil wires and didn't get anything from them. Cranked it over for a couple seconds each and got nothing for any of them.

 

You need to check the things suggested before proceeding further.

 

Okay so I'm testing the green 3 prong connector near the AFM. Please let me know if I'm not checking a random piece ha. I got 12V to the positive and 12V to both negative slots and supposedly you're only suppose to get 12V for one side.

 

That's for setting the TPS. At the TPS itself is a Brown wire. Are you going to test it and stop spinning wheels?

 

Is this what you're talking about? How do I go about testing it?

 

Simple, w/key to on it should read 5 volts.

 

I'm getting .09 up to around .12 This would cause the car to not spark and just keep cranking?

 

If you read the correct wire and took a proper reading w/key to on then yes. What did you use as a ground source for the multimeter? The negative battery terminal is always a good choice. Plus, the reading needs to be done on the Emission side of the plug if you happened to unplug the sensor to take the reading ,which is not necessary. The sensor has a short pigtail of wires and they plug into the Emission side of the harness. Make sure you got a correct reading involving the correct procedure and you can go from there.

 

I grounded it to the block and I kept it plugged in while I tested it. But I have a crappy volt meter I'm using so not sure if its accurate. Which side is the emissions side? I took it from the side if the connector that goes straight from the TPS.