rx-hvn

Hi, all. I'm new to the forum as well as owning an rx7. I've been reading a little about these machines for a couple years, and now that I own one, albeit for only about a week, I'm in love with it. I've got a few questions, though, and hopefully someone out there has the answers. . .

1.) Since I bought my '88 5sp conv., I've experienced "hopping" (where it kinda vibrates in an up-and-down motion) in the rear passenger wheel starting from a stop. This lasts usually until I'm going about 10mph and no other time. It doesn't wobble or otherwise vibrate irregularly at city or hwy speeds (i.e., doesn't seem to be the wheel bearing) and this does not occur on the driver's side. Here's the question (actually questionS): Is this likely just an indication that I need to replace the struts back there? Does the differential deliver power to just that one wheel or both? I thought it was both. . .

2.) After reading many of the threads here and googling a lot, I've concluded that my favorite variety of oil for piston engines (Castrol GTX) is also very good to use on rotaries (YAAAAY!) on a budget. However, as certain manufacturers have different standards, I was wondering if my favorite brand of oil filter, WIX, is also suitable for my n/a 13b. What do you think?

3.) With every purchase of a used car, I always like to make sure my fuel delivery is healthy. I plan on using some fuel injector cleaner and replacing the filter. Does anyone have any experience w/ Luccas "Tune-up in a Bottle"? I swear by the stuff in my older piston-driven engines, but how would the rotary react to it? Also, what's a good brand of fuel filter to use for, say, less than $15?

Thanks for your time and responses.

F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

1. A pinion snubber is the best option to stop wheel hop. (properly working suspension parts assumed). What it does is prevents the front of the differential (pinion) from lifting up and (in some cases) smacking the bottom of the car.

2. Wix is a great brand! I use Purolator pure one personally and Castrol 20w50 in the summer and 10w30 at the very coldest time of the year.

3. Take your injectors out and send them for professional cleaning. I sent mine to witch hunter and was very pleased with the service time, results, and fair pricing. I also use purolator fuel filters. They usually run around 22 dollars and I haven't found any cheaper then that.

rx-hvn

22 bucks for the cheapest fuel filter? Hmmm. . . I didn't realize that. I guess I should've expected that considering a K&N air filter for most cars is around $30 and mine sets me back $53. As for the oil weight/viscosity suggested: DAMN! I've never heard of ANYONE using 20W-50! Thanks, though. I'll consider that at my next oil change. Anyone else have suggestions? I'd love to hear them.

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

my old gxl used to have wheel hop over bumps and hard launches, new shocks fixed it

rx-hvn

Seeing as how I don't have as deep of pockets as I'd like and the pinion snubber trick is cheaper, I think I'll try that first and see if shock/strut replacement is still necessary (hope not).

Also, there doesn't seem to be any problem with the injectors at the moment, but I like to properly maintain whatever engine is turning my wheels. If not Lucas fuel treatment, is regular 'ol fuel injector cleaner safe for the rotary? It's one of those things I'm not sure about because of the unique set of seals found in a rotary compared to piston engines. Is a pro cleaning the ONLY way to maintain my injectors?

Lastly, and most cetainly least, since I'm fairly noobish to the whole rx7 speak. . . what do FB, FC, and FD stand for? I've gathered that they mean 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gen, respectively, but where did those abbreviations come from?

F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

Fuel injector cleaner is safe.

SA = 79-80 First generation
FB = 81-85 First gen (I think)
FC = 86-88 For the series 4, then 89-91 for the Series 5 Second generation Rx7
FD = 93-95 Series 6 Third generation Rx7.

The abbreviations are from the VIN tag. the VINs start with SA22, FC3s, FD3s etc..

thegoatc

the best way to clean injectors is to send them away and pro clean them but lucas will give a good in additive cleaner and will not hirt anything at all.
eric

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Sounds like you may have broken the diff mount, quite common, particularly on the TIIs. Replace it or have on made up solid.

F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

A broken diff mount will clunk at every shift, and you would HEAR it when you launch cause it would slap the bottom of the car over and over and over. It sounds like the car is about to explode.

rx-hvn

Well, after having new struts put on all around, the hopping went away (thx, guys). Now i have another problem: Flooding. Yeah, i bet u all saw that one coming. after searching the threads, I know that once the engine is minorly flooded, i should hold down the accelerator pedal and let off as soon as she fires. I also learned that this is likely from keaky injectors and, NO, I don't smell any gas (not the pulsation dampener, thank god).

Here's the question: I live in wichita, KS and would like to know where the best place to send my injectors to have them cleaned would be. It's almost imperitive that they be done quickly and done right, as this is my daily driver and my work is impendingly going to impose 7 day weeks for us. If anyone local knows someplace I could drop them off, that'd be ideal. As for sending them off, I'd appreciate ANY input (Company name, website if available, etc.).

Also, how difficult/expensive would this be to do myself? I love getting my hands dirty and tinkering with things like this. I used to have an aversion to dealing with electrical and/or fuel related problems, but my ***** have grown a little in the last few years

Thanks y'all!

F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

Witch hunter does excellent injector cleaning service. I used them and they are true professionals.

As far as the flooding, only series 5 have fuel cut when you hold the throttle at WOT. Series 4 requires you to pull the EGI fuse and crank the motor. You have an s4 so you'll need to pull the fuse in the fuse box by the drivers side strut tower. The cap is clearly marked.