johnrx2

Came from rebuild rew motor

How do I identify the makings to c what series they are

johnrx2

Trying to buy one from a member but his looks different around the circle depression. His is s5 turbo

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the combustion pockets are the pics we need.

the T in the oil channel indicates they are turbo, if the combustion pocket is machined then they are S5/6 Turbo rotors. if it is cast then they are S4 TII rotors.

johnrx2

These areas being different mean anything

johnrx2

This is my bad one combustion area

lduley

iTrader: (1)

Thats a s5/s6 turbo rotor

That one ding looks awfully familiar........

johnrx2

The one w the knick in it is my one I'm replacing, the other one is a rotor i may buy to replaced it. So the circled areas being different is ok to run together as long as same weight?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

there is an A through E stamp on the side of the rotor, as long as you are within 2 letters of each other, ideally you want to have the same or at least 1 letter off.

those machined out areas mean nothing, it is just how they balanced the rotors.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

It's better to weigh them. Don't rely on the letters. They need to be 50 grams or less difference. Ideally the same weight, but 10 to 20 grams apart is ok.

johnrx2

K so I will b ok if I buy the s5 turbo rotor
My good one is a d
The one is a c
I will weigh them .

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

it is better to weigh them, but in case someone is buying a rotor without a weight then the stamp info is all they can use for identification. these engines are very forgiving with weight differences between rotors.

i know the sticklers will say everything needs to be perfect though.

peejay

The weight difference in a running engine is lessened when you factor in that the lightweight air when measured outside an engine is replaced by oil when in an engine.

Until I'm given proof otherwise, I remain convinced that the rotors are 100% full of oil in a running engine.