Are these housings reusable?
#1
Are these housings reusable?
do these look good?
the 1st and second one is the rear housing, there was no sign of cracks near the spark plug holes. I don't see any flaking (correct me if I am wrong) but the rear seems to have alot more wear that the front one, i don't really stop my fingernail on anything but I can feel a variation with the fingertips, which is surprising because I don't have finger tips really anymore because playing bass gives super thick finger calluses lol
Granted I still have to clean it, or if anyone knows what the wear specification are with using a dial indicator, I could measure that spec but I haven't seen it anywhere in the FSM.
I'm going through my first rebuild and I'm the only one around me locally who knows anything about rotary, but I can't know everything always.
the 1st and second one is the rear housing, there was no sign of cracks near the spark plug holes. I don't see any flaking (correct me if I am wrong) but the rear seems to have alot more wear that the front one, i don't really stop my fingernail on anything but I can feel a variation with the fingertips, which is surprising because I don't have finger tips really anymore because playing bass gives super thick finger calluses lol
Granted I still have to clean it, or if anyone knows what the wear specification are with using a dial indicator, I could measure that spec but I haven't seen it anywhere in the FSM.
I'm going through my first rebuild and I'm the only one around me locally who knows anything about rotary, but I can't know everything always.
#4
yeah I pulled the motor with 75psi in the front and 70psi on the rear.
do you clean just the inside contact area or do you also clean where the housings meet as well?
#5
okay I cleaned them up a bit and there seems to be a bit of chrome missing around the outside edge. but I did find cracks on the rear rotor housing.
I highlighted (as best I could) the cracks
two 1/16" cracks on the small one and an 1/8" crack from the larger whole
so the rear is junk.
but what is an acceptable amount of wear?
I highlighted (as best I could) the cracks
two 1/16" cracks on the small one and an 1/8" crack from the larger whole
so the rear is junk.
but what is an acceptable amount of wear?
#7
I'll put the two together and take pics when I get batteries for it tonite
I want to rebuild my s4 na and just use s5 rotors in the current streetported setup but with the cost of everything I'm around 1200-1400 dollars and now since I need 1 if not 2 rotor housings, and buying them new is way out of my price range.
I'm weighing the cost of rebuilding vs buying used motor, since if I was ideally wanting to make a beefy NA motor I'd need a lot more money, I just miss driving it already lol.
its not a daily driver and the winter is coming so now is a good time for it to be in the condition it is in, rather it be a rebuild that is functional.
if my housings were good, I'd rebuild it but I dunno how I feel about it now.
Last edited by fidelity101; 10-07-08 at 07:48 PM.
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#9
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dont get discouraged,... get me some better pics,ill guide through some basic specs and try to shoot for an 80+ psi build ..ive used some pretty crappy housings in the past and got away with it! What apex seals will u be using?
Last edited by meca; 10-07-08 at 09:49 PM.
#10
I would replace the housing(s) and still utilize s5 rotors.
my laptop screen just broke and someone broke my passenger side window on the mazda last night, I don't even have a stereo, speakers, or an engine in the thing! grrr
so I took some pictures last night and I'll have to see if I can mooch my roomates PC and upload the pictures.
If I do end up rebuilding it I plan on using mazda OE 2 piece 2mm seals, my current motor was rebuilt by atkins and had the 3mm apex seal job done to it. so I won't be re-using that setup.
#11
Rotors still spinning
iTrader: (1)
Why is the exhaust sleeve ground out in the first two pictures but not in other? Is that 2 different mismatched housings or the same one after you ground it out?
I'm pretty strict about what I'd use. I would never use a housing with any chrome flaking at all but that's just me. As far as grooves go, if you can feel it, that's not a good sign. You need to go through the factory recommended procedure to check them to see if they are within spec. Even if they are, a rebuild with them won't be a long lasting motor since you already have lots of wear. This is why paying more to do it properly up front always costs less in the long run than paying to do it again. If there is ANY question at all as to whether they are usable or not, TRASH THEM!
I'm pretty strict about what I'd use. I would never use a housing with any chrome flaking at all but that's just me. As far as grooves go, if you can feel it, that's not a good sign. You need to go through the factory recommended procedure to check them to see if they are within spec. Even if they are, a rebuild with them won't be a long lasting motor since you already have lots of wear. This is why paying more to do it properly up front always costs less in the long run than paying to do it again. If there is ANY question at all as to whether they are usable or not, TRASH THEM!
#13
The Slowskys
iTrader: (3)
Why is the exhaust sleeve ground out in the first two pictures but not in other? Is that 2 different mismatched housings or the same one after you ground it out?
I'm pretty strict about what I'd use. I would never use a housing with any chrome flaking at all but that's just me. As far as grooves go, if you can feel it, that's not a good sign. You need to go through the factory recommended procedure to check them to see if they are within spec. Even if they are, a rebuild with them won't be a long lasting motor since you already have lots of wear. This is why paying more to do it properly up front always costs less in the long run than paying to do it again. If there is ANY question at all as to whether they are usable or not, TRASH THEM!
I'm pretty strict about what I'd use. I would never use a housing with any chrome flaking at all but that's just me. As far as grooves go, if you can feel it, that's not a good sign. You need to go through the factory recommended procedure to check them to see if they are within spec. Even if they are, a rebuild with them won't be a long lasting motor since you already have lots of wear. This is why paying more to do it properly up front always costs less in the long run than paying to do it again. If there is ANY question at all as to whether they are usable or not, TRASH THEM!
+1
If you use them and spend $1400 on all your parts then in a short while you’ll have to do it all over and then spend twice as much to get a quality rebuild. Just do it right the first time so you get a rebuild that will last and please you as much as the last one.
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