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Hi guys

About 3 months ago a bought an 87' GSL that had a turbo swap and did some trouble shooting, found out the front rotor had no compression so I started disassembling it with the idea that I was gonna port it and rebuild it with rx-8 stationary gears and e-shaft. well I got the thing apart and I need to replace the rotor housing cause there are two 1/32in deep gouges in one (one by the spark plug and the other by the exhaust where the apex seal went out) the other rotor housing just as a smaller gouge by the spark plug. now it was easy to tell that the front rotor wasn't gonna be usable since the apex groove was splayed open but I am questioning using the other rotor here are some pics of the the little gouge by the apex seal groove. tell me what you guys thing any advise would be nice two since this is my first engine rebuild. Thanks

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cezonetheillest

i wouldn't use that rotor if it was my motor that i was putting back together.

2Lucky2tha7

iTrader: (3)

If you're desperate, you can file it down on all sides. On the face and where the apex seal sits. I've seen rotors with worse in that same area that were filed down and worked fine.

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I will probably just replace both rotors just to be on the safe side. I do have another question though I am thinking about doing a standard bridge port with the RB template this is gonna be a boosted motor, I was told that you need carbon apex seals for a bridge port and also told that carbon seasl arent good fore boosted applications what do you guys suggest, or can you use 2-piece steel apex seals?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I'd use it. Just dress the wound and keep on rotating.

rd_turbo

iTrader: (4)

OE 2 piece 2mm apex seals work beautifully. Proper tuning is the name of the game with any apex seal...stick with OE, you can't beat decades of methodical engineering. The rotor in your pics is usable...it might also be an ideal candidate for milling to 3mm.

680RWHP12A

id mill the rotor for 3mm apex seals

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so you can use two piece apex seals on a bridge port? I will also take some pictures of the front rotor to show you guys how bad that was it looks like it had been hit with a sharp object going about 300mph, its a pitty too there was really no wear in the chrome of the housings but they both have some gouges in them I will take pics of those too. thanks for all the input

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ok a two part question first here are the pictures of the other rotor and rotor housings, tell me what you think. there is obviously large scratches on by the leading plug hole and the exhaust not really any chrome flaking but there is some wear on the very outer edges of the housings.

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ok second part. when I was disassembling the engine there was a steel insert that goes in the exhaust port that fell out and I was wondering what that was all about should it be there??

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last but not least I know if you guys are like me you love pictures so here are some more I started porting my rear side iron cause it has a broken bolt hole that is what connects to the bell housing so since this is my first time porting I am not to partial to the side since I might have to replace it anyways. well I took some pictures of my porting and I also have a question about the inner curve of the intake port if you touch that at all will the intake port over lap the oil control rings to much or is there a little bit of lee-way?

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ok so I thought about checking the overlap of the oil control ring into the intake port and here is what I see.

2Lucky2tha7

iTrader: (3)

Oh yeah, don't touch that part of the port. I ported like 2mm's or so forward there on my first large streetported 6-port and it caked my rotors with oil, lowered my oil pressure somewhat, burned oil somewhat and was just overall undesireable.

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yeah I probably cut about 2mm's off it but this was my first attempt at a port job so being that there is a bolt hole broken off on the bell housing mount I kinda wanted to replace it anyways.