Is Synthetic ok for rotory's? Zmax additive too?
04-01-04, 03:08 PM
#27
Rotary Enthusiast
zmax and smog test
passed without any problems.. %02 meas 0.5 at 15 mhp .. and 0.5 at 25 mph.. hc (ppm) .12 at .15 rpm and . 22 at 25 rpm ... co (%) .14 at 15 rpm and .46 at 25 rpm all were way below max .
04-01-04, 04:27 PM
#28
Re: zmax and smog test
Originally posted by jeff p
passed without any problems.. %02 meas 0.5 at 15 mhp .. and 0.5 at 25 mph.. hc (ppm) .12 at .15 rpm and . 22 at 25 rpm ... co (%) .14 at 15 rpm and .46 at 25 rpm all were way below max .
passed without any problems.. %02 meas 0.5 at 15 mhp .. and 0.5 at 25 mph.. hc (ppm) .12 at .15 rpm and . 22 at 25 rpm ... co (%) .14 at 15 rpm and .46 at 25 rpm all were way below max .
Did you use their complete Z-max system? I used it once on my Fc vert a couple years ago.
04-01-04, 04:33 PM
#29
Originally posted by MRGSL-SE
I have an 85 GSL-SE, if you check the original OWNERS MANUAL that came with the car, it does not recommend you to put synthetic oil. I don't know how 3rd gens are, but for 84-92 13B engines with 4 oil injectors and an oil metering pump synthetic oil is not for you, just as been said over and over SYNTHETIC doen't burn completely. Just use a regular non-synthetic Castrol 20w50 and premix with with CD2. Also MMO is good to premix with gas EVERY gas fill up. It doesn't hurt to do the ATF trick once a month..... to get rid of carbon build up and actually regain compression... I haven't use redline, but it might be alright...
I have an 85 GSL-SE, if you check the original OWNERS MANUAL that came with the car, it does not recommend you to put synthetic oil. I don't know how 3rd gens are, but for 84-92 13B engines with 4 oil injectors and an oil metering pump synthetic oil is not for you, just as been said over and over SYNTHETIC doen't burn completely. Just use a regular non-synthetic Castrol 20w50 and premix with with CD2. Also MMO is good to premix with gas EVERY gas fill up. It doesn't hurt to do the ATF trick once a month..... to get rid of carbon build up and actually regain compression... I haven't use redline, but it might be alright...
Note: Your "owners manuel" from 85 is based of the oil burning technology and research info available of that time period. Fast forward 20 years later and todays synthetics can be used on your engine.
Last edited by t-von; 04-01-04 at 04:40 PM.
04-04-04, 12:45 AM
#31
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FYI We have been using Amsoil oils for over 20 years in rotary applications. We even did a test with one in the 80's. We did a engine tear down at 10,000 and 20,000 miles to see what was happening inside. the engine ran clean, and the oil O rings on teh rotors were still the green color with no markings on tehm. By this time (20,000) the color should have started to change as well as some carbon build up. (Some Carbon is a normal reaction to the combustion. Excessive amount are not the norm). This engine was as clean as the day we put it together. We use the Amsoil in all of our engines and transmissions.
04-08-04, 01:22 AM
#34
My 88 and 93 owner's manuals both said not to use synthetic. I didn't listen (I use synthetic engine oil) and have no regrets.
I recently had my 93 engine torn down after running synthetic for 25K miles. I found no evidence that the synthetic oil was harming anything.
-Max
I recently had my 93 engine torn down after running synthetic for 25K miles. I found no evidence that the synthetic oil was harming anything.
-Max
04-10-04, 07:37 PM
#38
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My 2 stroke race bike uses and recommends synthetic oil, it burns, I run it on a 100 to 1 mix. I also run mobile one in my 1st gen with a working omp. The only draw back is expence
04-17-04, 02:37 AM
#43
I'm no expert but the lubricative properties of sythetic oils are higher than conventional oils. While breaking in a rotary, you don't want this type of oil in the engine because the OMP is going to inject it into the combustion chamber to lube the apex seals. This will keep the apex seals from breaking in properly. Pistons don't have this problem because the compression rings don't have as much direct contact with oil. They only get lubricated with the leftover oil from the cylinder walls that the oil rings leave behind.
You also need to remember that some synthetics have more detergents than others and todays synthetics have improved over these last few years. Remember the last Rx7 sold in the US was a 95 model. Mazda was basing their info on oil technology of that time period. Todays oils is a whole differant storey.
You also need to remember that some synthetics have more detergents than others and todays synthetics have improved over these last few years. Remember the last Rx7 sold in the US was a 95 model. Mazda was basing their info on oil technology of that time period. Todays oils is a whole differant storey.
Last edited by t-von; 04-17-04 at 02:44 AM.
04-17-04, 05:19 AM
#44
Originally posted by mad_7tist
why do people say not to use syn for the break in? there are alot of vetts/vipers/z-cars/infinities all getting syn from the factory with no probs
why do people say not to use syn for the break in? there are alot of vetts/vipers/z-cars/infinities all getting syn from the factory with no probs
-Max
04-19-04, 03:20 PM
#46
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PLEASE Read this if you are thinking of using ZMAX. Basically says it probably does nothing and may do harm...
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/02/zmax1.htm
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/02/zmax1.htm
05-19-04, 01:40 AM
#48
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I have used Mobil 1 in my 1st gen for 21 years, car spent first half of life as primary driver and autocrosser and my 3rd gen for 9yrs. Engines run cooler and gain a few HP. No problems
