Synthetic Oil to NON-Synthetic, problems??
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Pittsburgh,PA
Synthetic Oil to NON-Synthetic, problems??
I know it is not recommend to go from non to synthetic (unless it is just after engine break in). But how would it be with maybe 20-25k miles on an engine running synthetic to now go to non?
whoah, wait dog. You can't just switch to synthetic and everything be right. As you probably realize the rx7 burns like a quart of oil every 3000 miles..... so you would need to put another quart of synthetic in every 3000 miles. It burns this oil because it is injected through the oil pump to lubricate the apex seals.... the synthetic oil will not burn as well and will therefore cause carbon buildup.
The right way to do it is to disconnect your oil metering pump and those brittle thin lines that feed the oil injectors and hook up something like a premix. to the system.
The right way to do it is to disconnect your oil metering pump and those brittle thin lines that feed the oil injectors and hook up something like a premix. to the system.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,928
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From: Pittsburgh,PA
Originally Posted by sar
whoah, wait dog. You can't just switch to synthetic and everything be right. As you probably realize the rx7 burns like a quart of oil every 3000 miles..... so you would need to put another quart of synthetic in every 3000 miles. It burns this oil because it is injected through the oil pump to lubricate the apex seals.... the synthetic oil will not burn as well and will therefore cause carbon buildup.
The right way to do it is to disconnect your oil metering pump and those brittle thin lines that feed the oil injectors and hook up something like a premix. to the system.
The right way to do it is to disconnect your oil metering pump and those brittle thin lines that feed the oil injectors and hook up something like a premix. to the system.
I guess you miss read, I have synthetic in it now. I want to run Non-synthetic. I know the problesm with going from Non to synthetic (swelling of the seals). I just was not sure if there was a problem doing the oppiste.
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Belligerent Security
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Pulling you over
Originally Posted by sar
whoah, wait dog. You can't just switch to synthetic and everything be right. As you probably realize the rx7 burns like a quart of oil every 3000 miles..... so you would need to put another quart of synthetic in every 3000 miles. It burns this oil because it is injected through the oil pump to lubricate the apex seals.... the synthetic oil will not burn as well and will therefore cause carbon buildup.
The right way to do it is to disconnect your oil metering pump and those brittle thin lines that feed the oil injectors and hook up something like a premix. to the system.
The right way to do it is to disconnect your oil metering pump and those brittle thin lines that feed the oil injectors and hook up something like a premix. to the system.
Ok buddy. Maybe you should do some reading. Syn is perfectly fine for FD's.
Yeah, oil that burns would leave more of a build-up than one that resists burning.
Run two piston engines for 200K on 5K oil changes. One on non, and one on syn.
The one on non will have much more brown buildup.
Also, if you burn all the injected oil at combustion, what keeps it lubed until the next intake cycle??
Once an oil breaks down from heat, fuel, dirt, etc. it will burn more easily.
Synthetic would be better because it would resist breakdown, and probably not coke as fast in the turbos.
That is why synthetic is superior.
Run two piston engines for 200K on 5K oil changes. One on non, and one on syn.
The one on non will have much more brown buildup.
Also, if you burn all the injected oil at combustion, what keeps it lubed until the next intake cycle??
Once an oil breaks down from heat, fuel, dirt, etc. it will burn more easily.
Synthetic would be better because it would resist breakdown, and probably not coke as fast in the turbos.
That is why synthetic is superior.
many misconceptions here, synthetic like castor oil will leave more deposits during the combustion process than regular oils, you have to remember that not all standard oils are created equally though, dark colored oils such as pennzoil have alot of ash in them and tend to break down quicker and leave more crankcase deposits as well as combustion deposits. combustion deposits you need to worry the least about in a rotary and more about combustion deposits.
there is alot of easy methods to clean carbon from an engine on a regular basis but i wanted to put in my 2 cents on synth vs non.
i only use synthetic in a premix and only in small increments, i also use it in gearboxes such as for my motorcycles to protect the clutches and gears better since it is more resilient under higher pressures.
there is alot of easy methods to clean carbon from an engine on a regular basis but i wanted to put in my 2 cents on synth vs non.
i only use synthetic in a premix and only in small increments, i also use it in gearboxes such as for my motorcycles to protect the clutches and gears better since it is more resilient under higher pressures.
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From: Pulling you over
Originally Posted by Karack
combustion deposits you need to worry the least about in a rotary and more about combustion deposits.
So i don't need to worry about combustion deposits but I need to worry about combustion deposits? Call Tri-Point Engineering if you have any questions about running Syn. in your rotary. Trust the guys there more than you would trust 98% of the clowns on this forum.
should read something more like:
" you need to worry the least about crankcase deposits in a rotary and more about combustion deposits."
was one of my more dyslexic nights..
" you need to worry the least about crankcase deposits in a rotary and more about combustion deposits."
was one of my more dyslexic nights..
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