blacken_rotary

MIGHT be dum stupid question might even be aready answered a million times but i did my research and couldnt find it hopefully some one can help me......

i have 13bt rebuilt street ported s5 wit a bnr stage 1 turbo stock top mount....

When i was gaven my block back i had to align the timing my self which im newto.
i had follow the manual and align the timing with the dot like it said to is that a safe timing for my car? car starts right up.....

What would be safe air fuel ratio for idle...0...and boost.....i have have a aem wideband.....?

What would be safest amount of boost to run on a top mount only on a rtek 1.7?



I do plan on upgraded my ecu one day but rtek 1.7 is wat i have now so i have to deal wit it car a daily for now......


Any help is great please keep dum comments to your self......

RW-7

iTrader: (56)

Might check in at the Rtek specific forum. They might have some maps for you to tune to higher than stock boost levels.
Here is the link;
https://www.rx7club.com/rtek-forum-168/
-Robert.

Templeton

iTrader: (10)

i cant speak for your setup, BUT i can tell you that on stock block, s4 turbo, topmount, 750cc secondarys with the 1.7, 14 psi is TOO MUCH haha.. atleast without tuning with an SAFC like i was unwise enough to not use.

NEthingJDM

Well, new to the boards, been out of rotary's for a while...but, as far as turbo vehicles go been involved for a very long time.

Since, I've been away from the mazda scene for a minute not quite sure what the spec's for a "s5 with bnr stage 1 turbo" is. My guess is it sounds like a modified stock unit. Regardless of the turbocharger name the more important information would be:

1. Compressor Wheel - Inducer / Exducer diameter, blade count, tip height, double/single blade
2. Compressor Housing A/R
3. Turbine Wheel - Same as above Inducer / Exducer diameter, blade count, height.
4. Turbine Housing A/R

Knowing these factors would help in giving you some very general guidelines. There is a lot more to it than just that though.

At idle 14 to 1 should be no problem. As for the rest, you've really got to list your entire set up in order to begin. Everything will affect the outcome!

1. Injector size - cc, how many? Groupped / Sequential
2. Fuel pump - GPH / Dead head pressure
3. Fuel pressure regulator - Ratio ( boost vs psi gain ), static pressure at the rail.

Important to know things like your airflow ppm ( pounds per minute ) and Inlet Air temps to help in determining whether you've got enough fuel to support it.

What I can say with certainty is... GET A FRONT MOUNT ASAP! the factory top mount on a ported motor = BAD!!! That thing will heat soak on you at idle and if you've got a modified turbo in conjunction with a ported motor you are playing with fire!!!

Rotary's hate detonation, corner seal are not forgiving at all! All it takes is 1 mis-fire and your whole motor can go boom.

When you look at intercooler you've got 3 basic styles :

1. Bar & Plate
2. Tube Fin or Tube Header
3. Extruded Tube

Typically, the way I've listed them above, from top to bottom is a very very general rating of which is gonna give you the best efficiency...BUT, you will need to take a look at :

1. Exposed Surface Area
2. Internal surface area
3. Tube Count
4. Tube Length
5. Tube Height
6. FPI - Fin's Per Inch
7. Fin Configuration - Louvered / Bump / Square / etc.

It might seem like a lot to take it but, it's pretty simple once you get some baseline information.

Good luck with your project! lmk if I might be able to help you out.

blacken_rotary

dont know if this helps but this would be my turbo

The BNR stage 1 hybrid is stock appearing on the outside, but when you look closer, a larger/more efficient compressor wheel has been fitted in the stock compressor housing for more air volume over stock. The wastegate is also reworked to 34-35mm to handle boost control. The rotating assembly is balanced and blue printed and the turbine wheel is clipped to decrease backpressure, this also tends to reduce boost creep. The bearings and piston rings are replaced and the 270 degree thrust bearing is also modified for additional oil flow going to the rotating assembly. When you want everything to "look" stock, but not perform like stock, this is the turbo for you. You can see anywhere from 300- 320 RWHP from the stage 1 depending on your set up and boost level. Spool up should stay reasonably around where it spools with the stock turbo. Power band is very linear and comes online very quick, also it hits way harder on the top half of the RPM band. The stage 1 comes with a 1 year warranty. This turbocharger upgrade is bolt up and no fabrication is required.

•fully rebuilt
•T04b V trim compressor wheel with stock compressor housing machined to fit
•Clipped turbine wheel
•fully balanced rotating assembly (.5 gram/in2)
•adjustable wastegate actuator preset to 7-8 psi
•100% bolt up no fabrication required


MY BOOST IS SET AT 10PSI


injectors are rc egineer 750 secondaries stock prim

Fuel pump uupgraded to 255

i have a big radiator godspeed stock fan

full corksport exhaust no cat

no Fuel pressure regulator

everything else is stock

NEthingJDM

Ok, it's a start. Regarding your injectors I take it your running 550 / 750 combo. Now something to note now. Depending on the type of fuel pressure regulator you have. You can actually change the cc of the injector. On my FC3S I was using 4 750cc and boosted the rail pressure up to what the HKS tech book suggested and changed those Denso's into 1000cc. I was running a SX fuel pressure regulator at the time. Don't ask me how much psi I totally forgot what the "safe maximum psi" HKS used to run them at. I probably still have that tech book around here somewhere.

The SX regulator allowed you to set a static rail pressure at idle as well as it would increase at a 1 to 1 ratio.

If you are using a stock fuel pressure regulator then you should look into a aftermarket regulator. I strongly recommend AGAINST crushing the can!!!

About your turbo, V trim, the only thing I remember about a V trim... IF base on Garrett Air Research it was only good for medium boost applications as far as efficiency. The E50 Trim was the winner back then. Forgive me, I quit Turbonetic's back in 2001 so, it's been a really long time. Maybe their site has boost maps available.

If your running in the stock housings, the FC is basically like a Garrett T04 family, uses the same bearing rebuild kit. Problem with sticking a larger Comp wheel into a stock housing is basically, what ever A/R you started out with it's now even smaller because of the larger wheel. Smaller housings in a nutshell will create more back pressure and heat. As you mentioned about clipping your turbine wheel, never go beyond 5 degrees! Back then we use to clip them 2-3 degrees. Don't know what yours is done to.

Right now, I'm thinking you really really are in need of a FMIC intercooler. The top mount is WAAAAY too small. The combo you are running, I can actually imagine if you get on the throttle several times and your coolant temps probably start rising. Almost as if your throttle controls your coolant temps

My suggestion is IF your set on running it in that configuration keep it under 10 psi, air fuel around 11.2 under boost, and try not to take to 8,500 rpm all the time.

Got to run but, lmk how things go!

blacken_rotary

Any one know how to install a vortech fmu

blacken_rotary

Soo I got my fpr in which is a aeromotive a1000

I have it set to 43psi running. 11lbs

Afr at 11.3 tops

I plan on gettin a front mount soon since I'm still on a topmount


Is there any other parts any one recommend me to get to step to the next level?