Starting Rebuild tips, anything helps!
03-01-12, 05:14 PM
#51
I had the same problem when i first got my 7. Rebuilt the seals and went nuts after that apex seals everythign it gets very expensive. Stock seq are nice and the stock rx is a sweet ride however can you get past all that rats nest of vacuum ****?
03-01-12, 09:23 PM
#52
always something to fix
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I commented on your fs thread about running high boost on bnrs and honestly I say keep the the 99spec turbos. I currently have my bnrs tuned to about 12 10 12 and I really like it although there is a slight turbo lag compared from stock due to the larger compressors. The 99 specs will give you better response than stock and the bnrs and will be enough to get you 325rwhp.
the lightened flywheel will make the car a little bit harder to drive but nothing too crazy but if you are going to go for the street port and complete rebuild i'd suggest balancing the rotating assembly.
I dont like to not really like to diss places but neptune speed messed up my bnr stage 3 turbos when I asked them to put it on and tune it. I specifically said that this set has dynamic seals, instead of carbon seals, and would require idemitsu full synthetic which I left on the passenger seat. These jackasses decide to put castrol mineral oil and told me it was fine. So two months down the road they start leaking and I had to get them rebuilt. got them rebuilt and tuned elsewhere and now they run amazingly goood.
the lightened flywheel will make the car a little bit harder to drive but nothing too crazy but if you are going to go for the street port and complete rebuild i'd suggest balancing the rotating assembly.
I dont like to not really like to diss places but neptune speed messed up my bnr stage 3 turbos when I asked them to put it on and tune it. I specifically said that this set has dynamic seals, instead of carbon seals, and would require idemitsu full synthetic which I left on the passenger seat. These jackasses decide to put castrol mineral oil and told me it was fine. So two months down the road they start leaking and I had to get them rebuilt. got them rebuilt and tuned elsewhere and now they run amazingly goood.
thats all ill say on that, im just looking to see what i can get for these turbos cause theres a guy selling bnr's but if he sells before i do, ill just keep them, no biggie
03-01-12, 09:25 PM
#53
always something to fix
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Things I can think of...
- hose job for rats nest
- testing all solenoids in rats nest
- clutch replacement including pilot bearing and seal in eccentric shaft with your new flywheel
- have starter tested since you have it out waiting for the motor to come back
- check shifter bushing to see if it needs to be replaced
- fuel pulsation damper replacement or elimination (these can leak and cause engine fires)
- ensure injectors are cleaned and flow tested unless you buy new
- accelerated warm-up system (AWS) elimination
- double throttle elimination
- oil metering pump lines (replace with new, go stainless or remove and do pre-mix)
Did not see any mention of motor mods other than the porting. What about thermo pellet and oil passage modifications? the CorkSport web site used to have a detailed list of motor options you can read and consider.
If you want to know what other things to consider, download the Factory Service Manual and go through the engine rebuild portion page by page, including the removal/reinstall part. Any parts you touch are things to consider -- or at least test.
Comments from someone who has not done most of what I listed, but I've read MANY posts from djseven, gmonsen, GoodFellasFD3S, CrispyRX7 and the like over the years to learn from their experience when I start this process myself later this year.
- hose job for rats nest
- testing all solenoids in rats nest
- clutch replacement including pilot bearing and seal in eccentric shaft with your new flywheel
- have starter tested since you have it out waiting for the motor to come back
- check shifter bushing to see if it needs to be replaced
- fuel pulsation damper replacement or elimination (these can leak and cause engine fires)
- ensure injectors are cleaned and flow tested unless you buy new
- accelerated warm-up system (AWS) elimination
- double throttle elimination
- oil metering pump lines (replace with new, go stainless or remove and do pre-mix)
Did not see any mention of motor mods other than the porting. What about thermo pellet and oil passage modifications? the CorkSport web site used to have a detailed list of motor options you can read and consider.
If you want to know what other things to consider, download the Factory Service Manual and go through the engine rebuild portion page by page, including the removal/reinstall part. Any parts you touch are things to consider -- or at least test.
Comments from someone who has not done most of what I listed, but I've read MANY posts from djseven, gmonsen, GoodFellasFD3S, CrispyRX7 and the like over the years to learn from their experience when I start this process myself later this year.
03-02-12, 09:44 AM
#58
Junior Member
Starting rebuild myself, found most of the info I needed in this thread the info you guys shared is going to save me so much time and money. Als is the way to go and I only had to read this once
03-12-12, 06:28 PM
#62
always something to fix
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if anyone can help me out with a used intermediate housing that would be great, THAT WORKS
Last edited by ramo; 03-12-12 at 06:36 PM.
03-27-12, 08:37 AM
#70
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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Stop bumping your build thread looking for a part. Cruise on over to the classifieds section and post up a WTB.
I find it hard to believe that any reputable builder won't have a stash of nice used plates available.
I find it hard to believe that any reputable builder won't have a stash of nice used plates available.
03-27-12, 12:35 PM
#71
always something to fix
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i already am getting a housing from alex rodriguez, is it still not ok to bump for help though? just wondering
04-17-12, 03:04 AM
#72
always something to fix
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some questions i have
ppl tell me to delete my
OMP, double throttle, AWS, air pump, fuel puls dampner
what if i did all this at once, what are the consequences to each one?
its like each one has a consequence to have, or theyre just there and dont help that much and im just a lil confused as to if i should leave all that on or what
ppl tell me to delete my
OMP, double throttle, AWS, air pump, fuel puls dampner
what if i did all this at once, what are the consequences to each one?
its like each one has a consequence to have, or theyre just there and dont help that much and im just a lil confused as to if i should leave all that on or what
04-17-12, 10:30 PM
#75
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I basically have a car that is reliable and runs well for a street car.
my mods are pretty long...but the overall theme for me is/was this when modifying my car.
Simple, Clean, Reliable, Hassle free.
I purchased a car with the stock twins in non-seq and most of the reliability mods already on it with a fresh engine and turbo rebuild.
It came with non-seq, rebuilt turbo's (rich mans)
rebuilt engine with 2mm seals.
FMIC
Koyo Radiator
DP/MP/E
almost new Exedy street clutch
Denso Supra fuel pump (re-wire)
HKS intake
tuned Apexi PFC (aprox 290WHP) or so
Y-pipe
Stock fuel injectors
Rebuilt transmission, bearings, etc, new slave/master cylinders, clutch line
Boost controller, Turbo Timer
Has nice wheels, newer paint, body kit, etc outside
We know that rotary engines need cooling....I am in CO which has less air to cool with (alt. at 6,300 ft)
Stuff I have added for reliability or will add (just need to install)
Shine undertray
Rebuilt power steering unit + new hoses
New FPD
Updated radiator hoses + used ABA hose clamps (don't damage hoses)
Dual Oil coolers
Ducting for radiator and oil coolers
FJO water injection system (will install next)
Oil Catch Can
Respeed oil fill neck (baffled)
Poly bushings in the trailing arms
Updated brake fluid with ATE super blue fluid + HPS pads all around
New fual injector O-rings
New gaskets where needed
Converting OMP to run from 2 cycle tank. (in process)
Run NEO gear lube for tranny and diff (still needs to be changed)
Then I am done and will be driving lots.
I change oil every 2K miles.
Change plugs and fuel filter every 15K miles
Change radiator fluid yearly
Drive light till warmed up....always cool down after driving.
my mods are pretty long...but the overall theme for me is/was this when modifying my car.
Simple, Clean, Reliable, Hassle free.
I purchased a car with the stock twins in non-seq and most of the reliability mods already on it with a fresh engine and turbo rebuild.
It came with non-seq, rebuilt turbo's (rich mans)
rebuilt engine with 2mm seals.
FMIC
Koyo Radiator
DP/MP/E
almost new Exedy street clutch
Denso Supra fuel pump (re-wire)
HKS intake
tuned Apexi PFC (aprox 290WHP) or so
Y-pipe
Stock fuel injectors
Rebuilt transmission, bearings, etc, new slave/master cylinders, clutch line
Boost controller, Turbo Timer
Has nice wheels, newer paint, body kit, etc outside
We know that rotary engines need cooling....I am in CO which has less air to cool with (alt. at 6,300 ft)
Stuff I have added for reliability or will add (just need to install)
Shine undertray
Rebuilt power steering unit + new hoses
New FPD
Updated radiator hoses + used ABA hose clamps (don't damage hoses)
Dual Oil coolers
Ducting for radiator and oil coolers
FJO water injection system (will install next)
Oil Catch Can
Respeed oil fill neck (baffled)
Poly bushings in the trailing arms
Updated brake fluid with ATE super blue fluid + HPS pads all around
New fual injector O-rings
New gaskets where needed
Converting OMP to run from 2 cycle tank. (in process)
Run NEO gear lube for tranny and diff (still needs to be changed)
Then I am done and will be driving lots.
I change oil every 2K miles.
Change plugs and fuel filter every 15K miles
Change radiator fluid yearly
Drive light till warmed up....always cool down after driving.