I'm positive I have a blown coolant seal. I want to get the engine rebuilt, but not sure if I should do it myself. I've never been inside an engine, but plan on buying rotary aviation dvd if I do. If rather use the 800 it costs to rebuild the engine to use towards tools and supplies I'll need. I wanna keep the twins, go non seq, and do as many reliability mods as possible. Bought bonez dp, mishimoto radiator hoses so far.

I plan on getting high flow cat, nice cat back, silicon hose job for rat nest, gauges, fuel pump, water injection, fan switch mod.

I still don't know what kind of gasket set to buy, atkins has diff levels, idk what to choose.

I wanted oem apex seals but I just found out about als and they seem great.

Already have koyo rad, pfc and commander, huge unknown fmic (looks nice) ast deleted, and apexi cat back.

I am getting the car dyno tuned asap as soon as it runs again.

I'm not looking for hp, just a fun daily driver that won't cause problems.

If you have parts for sale I'm also interested

 

*vote for keeping the twins full sequ.*

Why <ou wanna go non sequential?
If you've looked at the system once or twice yourself at the engine and read a little bit about it, it's not that hard to understand and maintain...

 

I keep reading its more reliable, takes away a few hoses and the seq system, I feel like the less stuff on the car, easier it is to diagnose an issue. And it leaves less space for problems to happen

 

do more research and do it right the first time man. have a couple friends who wanted the same thing you do, and ended up going thru multiple engines

 

i think im gonna have a shop do it, i dont have the money to do it again if i mess up. and i just got screwed by this guy who knew alot of 7's but he just stopped helping me so i had to tow my car from his house or else it was gonna get towed.
but what about everything else? ive been reading for literally 4 months now, everyday, searching for diff reliability mod pages, thats all i want. i want single turbo but i think thatll cost way more, but i also dont know exactly what ill need for that. manifold, different dp, idk thats just off the top now

 

I have read that side of the story before as well. I'm double guessing non seq now, will ask and read more on it.

I am not looking for power though, I think the car is fast enough stock, and all these mods I feel will help keep the car sane. I'll look into bnr turbos.

Thanks for the advice!

 

any more tips from pros?

 

I'm not a pro by any means (in my opinion), but I'd suggest modding slowly... This will help identify what was changed if problems arise (from the mods), and it will let you learn to drive and control the car at each progressive power level.

 

i know thats a safe way to go, but i know that if you mod the car without getting it tuned, more problems can occur. thats why i was planning on getting the engine rebuilt to stock, and doing everything else i listed, and getting it tuned asap when it starts up. is that safe to say?

 

my biggest concern is the rebuild kit. from what ive asked and been told, OEM apex seals are the best, and its ok to use atkins set for everything else.

but theres so many other kits, pineapple racing and banzai and the OEM kit, id rather spend less money but not at the cost of my engine. any advice on that?

 

FUTURE MODS

walbro fuel pump

bonez dp (bought)

rx7 store high flow cat

pettit catback (bought)

ALREADY HAVE

specter twin tube intakes

huge SMIC (unknown brand, seems really nice though) with airbox

TIAL bov 50mm

ast deleted

power fc

koyo radiator

apexi coilovers

PLANNED RELIABILITY MODS

silicone hose job for everything

getting dual oil coolers

fan mod switch

efini Y pipe




am i missing anything?

 

im not looking for huge performance gains, i figured since im doing a whole exhaust setup and adding alot more air, i need to have a reliable fuel mod, but i guess supra fp is the next level, im on a budget! lol

 

Any more ideas on my set up?

Is j and s knock sensor a MUST for me, or can I get away with a a/f ratio gauge, or egt gauge

 

info on rebuild kits is GREATLY appreciated

i know about atkins, i plan on getting oem seals, but is there anything at all that i should know?

anything that would be good for my knowledge to know about?

 

bump for info please

 

tips on rebuild kit? best for the price? most reliable?

 

Anything please

 

Atkinsrotary.com for the majority of it. Contact Allrotor93 here on the forum to get you a set of ALS 2mm apex seals. DO NOT WASTE TIME WITH ANY OTHER APEX SEAL.

 

arent OEM seals always a good option as well? and i know about atkins, just seeing if anyone had bad experiences with certain gasket kits so i dont do the same, id rather not find out myself

 

Ive built near 100 engines with Atkins kits, I bet the sell well over 1000 rebuild kits a year, so I think you are safe.

Also, FORGET THE FACTORY SEALS, BUY ALS, DONT WASTE TIME AND MONEY, you will thank me later.

 

i figure als are for higher hp cars, im just looking for 300 with my car, dont wanna spend money i dont have to thats what im saying.

i can get oem for 275 shipped or als for 400 shipped.

any tips on the mods i want to do, or anything i should do additionally?

 

bump for tips

 

I use rotary aviation seals in all of my rebuilts, I would recommend using the classic seals and i would pre-mix to help with the lubrication. I also recommend using mazda apex springs and corner seal.

 

also make sure you get a good tuner, because you can build the strongest motor and without a good tuner it won't last.

 

wow i cant believe how cheap they are, i was leaning toward als or oem, but when it comes to price thats really nice

im not looking for more then 325 whp