ramo

iTrader: (30)

i got a guy in huntington beach thats amazing, thanks for the advice man

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

Not an expert but have been thru it all with my 3 rotor build. My advice is to determine what exactly you want at the end of modding and then to start building towards it. Proper planning now can save you a bunch of time and money later.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/david-hayes%92-end-3-rotor-build-rebuild-rebuild-reflection-984240/

See this ^ for more as most of the engine stuff applies to you.

Can't go wrong with the ALS seals from allrotor93. They bend and don't break which is great and I'd put them in over stock seals. I'd also get the engine mildly street ported now while you are doing the rebuild. This will allow you to "upgrade" your HP levels later. Haven't met anyone ultimately who has been happy at the 300 HP level. Trust me on this

ramo

iTrader: (30)

ive read nothing but great things about als, at the same time, ive also read you cant go wrong with oem seals.

the main issue here is price, i want to do things right the first time, and ive been on the forum every day for 2 months now, reading reliability mods and things to do, ideas, what others have gone through doing stupid stuff so i dont do it too

i want to spend my money right, but i dont have lots to spend (like you did) lol

i was thinking of street port but ruled it out, now im reconsidering

i already messed up the engine once by overheating it (messed up coolant filling process when i first got the car and didnt know anything about it)

so im dedicated to making the car last as long as possible and willing to sacrifice hp gains to make sure it stays running, i want reliability! idc how stupid that sounds to hp freaks

i just paid 200 for the silicone hose set off hose techniques, and got mishimoto radiator hoses, just for that reliability of not having cracked hoses leak fluid everywhere

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

^ I hear you on wanting to do it right and to spend your money wisely. Forgive me for being harsh but what you spend on radiator hoses and silicone hoses is not money spend wisely. There are less expensive silicone routes to go with great reliability and OEM hoses for your level of HP work great.

What I have recommended (the ALS seals) work great and will save you money down the line if you want to up your HP levels, which I bet you most certainly will want to do. There's no reason that you can't have a safe and reliable 375-400 HP so why not plan for this now? And yes the OEM seals can handle this but I think you'll be better served in the long run with the ALS. If I had to do it again, I'd go with these.

As for street porting, that's a must if you want to up the levels at all so why not do it now? Nothing huge just have someone open them up a bit and polish them up. Won't hurt your drivability at all and will help the engine flow better. And when you want to up the HP you won't have to go thru the rebuild process yet again. It's money well spent.

Finally, I'd also put on a meth/water injection kit now. Cool is your friend for reliability and longevity. See Howard Coleman's thread on this.

I respectfully suggest those items are "doing it right" and money well spent.

ramo

iTrader: (30)

im actually in the process of getting a cooling mist water inject kit, started a thread on the best spot to put the nozzle, still not sure!

and as for the hoses, that sucks to hear! that was something i was sure about, cause so many people say to do that job, and hose techniques sells the specified hose sizes that are needed to do it all, now what?

also, as much as i hate to admit it, i probably will want to up the hp, i just want the car running again, its been down for over 2 months now

i was thinking about getting used bnr turbos as well with only 5k, for 1500, but i think thats just hopeful thinking, cause i would really like them, and single turbo kits seem to cost so much, even used


ive also been looking into RA seals, but you seem really dedicated on the als ones lol

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

^I've got RA Super Seals in mine. They're also unbreakable but there is some question as to whether they score the housings. Not an issue with the ALS hence the recommendation.

The hoses you got are perfectly fine, don't sweat it.

ramo

iTrader: (30)

would i need to upgrade my fuel pump with the mods i want to do? i was thinking about getting denso

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Ill say it one more time and then leave you alone. SPEND THE EXTRA MONEY FOR THE ALS SEALS, it will save you a lot of money and most importantly, heart break and down time in the future. Leave the exhaust ports alone and only mildly port the intake ports.

Seriously I have built with 2mm Atkins, 3mm atkins, 2mm oem, 3mm oem, RA classics, RA superseals, and lastly ALS. 3 years running ALS and havent looked back, literally ZERO issues with the ALS seals.

They are the same seals that I used to build Tom94Rx7 motor which is going on its 3rd season. That motor set the record on stock twins in the 1/4, and also ran 10.3 with his new single setup ON PUMP GAS with water/meth.

There are a lot of people with over 20k miles on these seals now without compression issues. They cant fix every problem with your car, but they can eliminate one weak link.

ramo

iTrader: (30)

i think i might, you drive it pretty hard lol

anything else that is urgent?

djseven

iTrader: (56)

New wiring harness, new FPD, New Injectors,delete AST and install all new hoses and lines. The rest of the stuff is just 20 year mechanical stuff that will eventually fail but not cause monumental disaster.

ramo

iTrader: (30)

here are some things ive been told so far that i should get, im not sure what order priority they should all go in

denso fuel pump (185 from a fellow on here)

flywheel (mazdatrix says lighter flywheel requires higher rpm to get car moving, which in turn burns out clutch faster, so idk if i wanna get one anymore)

idler pulley in replace of air pump( can i just leave air pump there and disconnect it for now?)(150)

wideband 02 kit, just to keep an eye if anything happens (finding new kits for 180)

3 bar map sensor (dont plan on going over 14 psi though)

all suspension bushings

and also the above listed by mr djseven

i just dont want to do any unnecessary mods at this time, something to do down the road though

looking for efficient, reliable mods to help out the car, that i would need to get done during a rebuild, or would be easier to do during a rebuild, such as the egr valve block or something else like that



please read the first page to see whats already done and what i plan on getting

Gringo Grande

iTrader: (97)

I apologize if this sounds harsh and I understand your enthusiasm which I certainly do not wish to discourage. However you are asking for advice and you are receiving some from:

1) A very well known engine builder and...
2) The owner of one of the nicest FD's in the US who has put more $$$ into his car than you see in 2 and 3 FD's combined. So my suggestion? Listen to them!

David gave you a great piece of advice. You don't seem to have a very structured plan. It seems to be more of, "Let's buy a bunch of parts and throw it together". I'd strongly suggest against this and from what I've seen I would expect your car to be down from 3-6 months.

I normally wouldn't say a flywheel is needed but if you have the engine out then definitely do it. Check the clutch while you are at it and make certain you have the correct counter weight.

You don't need an idler pulley IMHO. You don't need a 3 Bar Map Sensor. Personally, you bought a ton of stuff I wouldn't have bought all at once.

I'd once again like to kindly suggest that you really sit down and plan this out...maybe share it with us, how this all is going to work together and what your plans are from A to Z. Best of luck!

ramo

iTrader: (30)

thanks for the response, and sorry about that last thread we were on

anyways, i am in NO WAY discrediting the info i am being given on here

i checked out daves site and saw how much money he spent, so i even though i dont know him, i trust in everything he told me since hes got a lot of experience and time in the car

basically im doing all reliability mods at the LEAST

im looking for more opinions on items to modify/remove that would help keep the car as problem free and efficient as possible, such as going simplified sequential

i know some people say a completely stock car is best, but i bought it modded, so im gonna do all the reliability mods i can

i would like this to be a once in a while track and drag strip car. just for fun, not competition.

im not looking to break records or be a pro racer, just a fun reliable daily drive-able fd

im obviously new but im willing to learn and read, which i do every day, for hours

what items do you think i dont need or shouldnt have gotten?

ramo

iTrader: (30)

Anything to say about above info?

ramo

iTrader: (30)

dropped off the engine at neptune speed

asked for a street port, thanks to david hayes!

got a cooling mist kit

found out i have shaft play in my twins =/

id like bnr turbos but so pricey, this rebuild is alot as it is, with extra parts being bought as well

what fuel injector size would anyone recommend, i was thinking 1300 for secondaries, i dont want to overdo it, just something that will have the duty cycle not being pushed to the limit, since i think ill be around 325 wheel HP, thought that injectors would be a wise upgrade

ramo

iTrader: (30)

bump for tips

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

For your horsepower goals, stock twins are fine. BNR's are quite a bit of money and they're nice, but I think you can put money into other parts of the car.

Get a good used set of low-mileage twins, preferably twins off a JDM engine with low mileage. You can pick up twins for $300-350 with low mileage easily. If you can, get a set of the slightly newer N3C1 twins, they have less problems with manifold cracking.

550's/1300's are perfect for the stock twins, that's plenty of fuel. That with a good fuel pump and a fuel pump rewire and you're set on fuel.

For a wideband, I recommend the Innovate LC-1 with DB gauge. Clean, works great, well engineered and reasonably priced.

Skip the 3 bar MAP sensor, the stock sensor is good to 16-17 PSI and that's more than plenty for the stock twins. That's just another hassle you don't need.

Light flywheel if you can find a good deal, I LOVE my light flywheel and it's great to do it while the engine is out. But, it can be pricey.

I'll chime in some more on this later.

Dale

flaco

iTrader: (7)

most of the kits in the market are good is really up to you. and remember the softer the seal the faster will waste.

ramo

iTrader: (30)

Thanks dale, I have efini turbos getting rebuilt right now, so ill stick with those

I'll get some 1300's, do I need to change fuel rail if I get those?

I'll pick up the flywheel

F1GURIN

Although i cant answer any of your questions, ill bump this.

im also looking to get 300-325 tops out of my rx7 when i get one soon and mod the handling the department like crazy.

alot of people upgrade the hp because its just so cheap to do, but id rather have something that is lower in hp and more bulletproof.

keep us updated, especially with prices of all these items and where you got them, id like this thread to not get lost so i can source parts for my rebuild when i rebuild it myself in the future.

goodluck!

ramo

iTrader: (30)

GETTING

used flywheel with counter for 250-300

used supra pump 125-175

fuel injectors 100-150

gauges (boost, water, fuel pres) 150-200

IRP motor mounts 155

ALS seals 400



thats all i can think of now

anyone got anything to add to the list?

check the first page for what i already have

ramo

iTrader: (30)

bump

ramo

iTrader: (30)

any thoughts?

EjCabrera

iTrader: (4)

I commented on your fs thread about running high boost on bnrs and honestly I say keep the the 99spec turbos. I currently have my bnrs tuned to about 12 10 12 and I really like it although there is a slight turbo lag compared from stock due to the larger compressors. The 99 specs will give you better response than stock and the bnrs and will be enough to get you 325rwhp.

the lightened flywheel will make the car a little bit harder to drive but nothing too crazy but if you are going to go for the street port and complete rebuild i'd suggest balancing the rotating assembly.

I dont like to not really like to diss places but neptune speed messed up my bnr stage 3 turbos when I asked them to put it on and tune it. I specifically said that this set has dynamic seals, instead of carbon seals, and would require idemitsu full synthetic which I left on the passenger seat. These jackasses decide to put castrol mineral oil and told me it was fine. So two months down the road they start leaking and I had to get them rebuilt. got them rebuilt and tuned elsewhere and now they run amazingly goood.

technomentor

iTrader: (18)

Things I can think of...
- hose job for rats nest
- testing all solenoids in rats nest
- clutch replacement including pilot bearing and seal in eccentric shaft with your new flywheel
- have starter tested since you have it out waiting for the motor to come back
- check shifter bushing to see if it needs to be replaced
- fuel pulsation damper replacement or elimination (these can leak and cause engine fires)
- ensure injectors are cleaned and flow tested unless you buy new
- accelerated warm-up system (AWS) elimination
- double throttle elimination
- oil metering pump lines (replace with new, go stainless or remove and do pre-mix)

Did not see any mention of motor mods other than the porting. What about thermo pellet and oil passage modifications? the CorkSport web site used to have a detailed list of motor options you can read and consider.

If you want to know what other things to consider, download the Factory Service Manual and go through the engine rebuild portion page by page, including the removal/reinstall part. Any parts you touch are things to consider -- or at least test.

Comments from someone who has not done most of what I listed, but I've read MANY posts from djseven, gmonsen, GoodFellasFD3S, CrispyRX7 and the like over the years to learn from their experience when I start this process myself later this year.