Whats up guys, (first post HAH)

Anyway looking for suggestions on where and how to start out building a rotory engine. Also planning to build it over time, not really an all-of-a-sudden deal so looking for suggestions on what i should look for on a used block and a price range to agree with or if its even worth saving the money on a used block. I guess just post anything and everything you think will help me out.

Thank you.

 

Build it in your garage. Start with a rotary engine. Dismantle said engine. Proceed to modify as needed. Assembly is reverse of removal.

Things to look for in a used wankel:

Make sure it's all together. If it looks like it's been burried in the ground for 10 years, stay away from it.

Check the rotating assembly. It should (with a little effort) be able to be turned by hand. If you can't turn it (and not because you're a panzie), it's probably rusted/carbon-locked solid. Avoid.

Before buying, remove the top spark plugs, turn the engine, and every 1/2 rotation of the flywheel you should get a nice blast of air out of each hole (and it should sound strong). If they don't sound at least similar, avoid.

If you're going to get a junkyard short block, no more than $200 (for a S4 N/A). If they leak test, compresison test, and warranty it for any length of time, then anywhere from $700+ (JDM S4 Turbo longblock) is a good price. Some places think rotaries are worth their weight in gold ($1,000 for a S4 NA with unknown mileage, no compresison/leak-down tests done), and still refuse to warranty the engine; tell them stuff their wankel up their ***.

As a general rule, if you have 1/2 a good engine, all you need is another 1/2 to make it run good. Typically, if you've just eaten an apex seal, just get a "bad" junkyard motor for $50 and use the rotor housing and rotor (potentially side irons as needed). Just be careful not to use parts that have deep wear grooves in them (rotor housings); you will never get "excellent" compression from it, and they usually don't last very long (30,000mi) due to the nicasil (chrome?) flaking off. And make sure the engines are from the same series; an easy way to tell is by the presence of an EGR valve (S4's have them, S5's don't).

 

Alright man.

Thanks for the information.

Highly appreciate it..