Starting a long-sitting 2nd Gen... what to watch for
Starting a long-sitting 2nd Gen... what to watch for
Hello Everyone,
I'm new to this forum and RX-7s, but I have been doing a lot of reading up on these cars. I have bought a white 1987 GX with 5-speed and sunroof. Picked it up for $400 and it is actually in really good shape, but it does need quite a bit of work.
The car is being towed to my house since it has not been running in close to a year. According to the owner, it ran great when they parked it. They parked it becuase the windshield was smashed by a falling tree branch.
What things should I do or watch for when I attempt to start this thing? I am probably going to change the oil and filter first, along with checking the engine coolant and all lines and hoses. The engine compartment is very clean, so I can see that the car has been looked after for most of its life.
I've read that ATF fluid can be used to lubricate the apex seals. Should I do this first before trying to start it since it has sat for so long?
Is there anything I can do to make sure the car gets good fresh gas right away? There is probably still some stale gas in the lines.
I really appreciate any help that I can get. I'm really excited about my new project RX-7, but I know some of the things I have to watch for and I don't want to cause any damage by rushing into things!
Thanks,
Tom
I'm new to this forum and RX-7s, but I have been doing a lot of reading up on these cars. I have bought a white 1987 GX with 5-speed and sunroof. Picked it up for $400 and it is actually in really good shape, but it does need quite a bit of work.
The car is being towed to my house since it has not been running in close to a year. According to the owner, it ran great when they parked it. They parked it becuase the windshield was smashed by a falling tree branch.
What things should I do or watch for when I attempt to start this thing? I am probably going to change the oil and filter first, along with checking the engine coolant and all lines and hoses. The engine compartment is very clean, so I can see that the car has been looked after for most of its life.
I've read that ATF fluid can be used to lubricate the apex seals. Should I do this first before trying to start it since it has sat for so long?
Is there anything I can do to make sure the car gets good fresh gas right away? There is probably still some stale gas in the lines.
I really appreciate any help that I can get. I'm really excited about my new project RX-7, but I know some of the things I have to watch for and I don't want to cause any damage by rushing into things!
Thanks,
Tom
Full Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs Colorado
DAMN $400!!!!??? Cant even buy a PART for that little! Setting for a year huh. Do you know if the owner drained all the fluids? First thing I would do is change the fluids regarless. Also get rid of any gas in the tank and just do a regular check of the vehicle ie filters, battery. You MAY have to use the ATF "TRICK" if it don't want to turn over. I am sure the more knowledgeable on here will come along with MUCH more advice! Listen to them! They know of which they speak! Me? I just get by with help from them. GREAT BUY MAN!! and GOOD LUCK!
I would not recommend the ATF right away!!! In fact, their maybe a ton of carbon In the combustion chambers and you don't even know It. Doing the ATF may possibly result In a CHUNK of carbon breaking off and taking your Apex Seal off right with It.
If I were you, I would change all the FLUIDS, filters and give a MAJOR tune up. Even If previous owner told you he changed the air filter 2 weeks before he parked It - Do It Anyway for example.
Finally, when you do get It started, drive It around the block and AFTER full operating condition Is reached, redline a few times and than a few times more. This Insures some, If not all, the carbon Is being excreted from the motor.
To be on the safe side, I really would remove the gas from the tank before you start It. B'c the last thing you want to question, after all the fluids and filters have been changed Is the quality of the gas that Is In the tank. I would just use a shop vac or lots of rags to get all the stale gas out from above the tank.
If I were you, I would change all the FLUIDS, filters and give a MAJOR tune up. Even If previous owner told you he changed the air filter 2 weeks before he parked It - Do It Anyway for example.
Finally, when you do get It started, drive It around the block and AFTER full operating condition Is reached, redline a few times and than a few times more. This Insures some, If not all, the carbon Is being excreted from the motor.
To be on the safe side, I really would remove the gas from the tank before you start It. B'c the last thing you want to question, after all the fluids and filters have been changed Is the quality of the gas that Is In the tank. I would just use a shop vac or lots of rags to get all the stale gas out from above the tank.
Last edited by silverrotor; Jun 28, 2002 at 02:45 PM.
well, silverrotor has a point about the carbon flakes ... but since the engine has not turned at all for over a year, i'd say to be safe, because all that crap can break regardless of the ATF and if it get stuck between a seal and the rotor housing, it will scar it!
first, do like everyone said ... get all the parts for a tune up: (plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, oil, antifreeze, etc.) i would also recommend a fuel injector cleaner or fuel system cleaner and some octane boost (that's overkill, but if you can do it, then do it)
then go to work on starting the engine with the old parts on it. i'm saying this only because if you use the new stuff, you're going to have to buy them again because all the sludge and crap is going to go right to them, but it's your choice.
before you try to crank it ... put about a tablespoon of oil in the engine through the trailing plug holes (the upper intake manifold would be cleaner and better, but then you'll have to get a gasket - so ...)
anyway, turn the engine by hand for a couple full revolutions and then put the plugs back in. in fact, if you want, then after you turn it by hand, and you feel all is well, turn it with the starter (but then you'll have to take the lead plugs out, too) - this will do two things, it will prime the oil passages and also the fuel lines.
next ... put the octane boost in and then try to start it. if it fires, then let it run for a while. you may even drive it if you wish, but DON"T drive it hard!!!! try to keep it below 4,000 under load. the octane boost is cheap insurance, but if an injector or line is clogged or the computer has not reset itself for the proper timing or something ... the extra octane is not going to stop detonation from blowing an apex seal!
try to drive it until the gas goes low ... because you want to bring up all the crap from the bottom into the old filter before you change it.
when the gas is low ... then put all the new parts on and put in the fuel system cleaner.
change the oil within 1,000 miles and keep putting in the injector cleaner. then you can start gradually increasing RPM loads with time.
good luck with car, you got a GREAT deal!
first, do like everyone said ... get all the parts for a tune up: (plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, oil, antifreeze, etc.) i would also recommend a fuel injector cleaner or fuel system cleaner and some octane boost (that's overkill, but if you can do it, then do it)
then go to work on starting the engine with the old parts on it. i'm saying this only because if you use the new stuff, you're going to have to buy them again because all the sludge and crap is going to go right to them, but it's your choice.
before you try to crank it ... put about a tablespoon of oil in the engine through the trailing plug holes (the upper intake manifold would be cleaner and better, but then you'll have to get a gasket - so ...)
anyway, turn the engine by hand for a couple full revolutions and then put the plugs back in. in fact, if you want, then after you turn it by hand, and you feel all is well, turn it with the starter (but then you'll have to take the lead plugs out, too) - this will do two things, it will prime the oil passages and also the fuel lines.
next ... put the octane boost in and then try to start it. if it fires, then let it run for a while. you may even drive it if you wish, but DON"T drive it hard!!!! try to keep it below 4,000 under load. the octane boost is cheap insurance, but if an injector or line is clogged or the computer has not reset itself for the proper timing or something ... the extra octane is not going to stop detonation from blowing an apex seal!
try to drive it until the gas goes low ... because you want to bring up all the crap from the bottom into the old filter before you change it.
when the gas is low ... then put all the new parts on and put in the fuel system cleaner.
change the oil within 1,000 miles and keep putting in the injector cleaner. then you can start gradually increasing RPM loads with time.
good luck with car, you got a GREAT deal!
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: Colorado
flooding
If it actually was running when they parked it then all you have to do is clamp the fuel line and try to start it a bunch of times, then once it starts unclamp the fuel line. I got a switch installed in mine so that I wouldn't have to clamp the fuel line, but it does the same thing.
Hey everyone,
Thanks for all the helpful suggestions!
After I had it towed home last Friday, I did the ATF treatment while I charged up the battery.
The oil was very clean, so I left it in there until I got it to fire up. I topped up the cooling system, made sure the belts were tight, and checked all of the spark plugs and wires. The car must have been in good running shape when they parked it...
I drained out the fuel tank (thanks to the handy drain plug in the bottom of the tank, I have never seen that on any other cars!!). We quickly discovered that the fuel pump was not pumping. We pulled the pump, disassembled it, and cleaned all the crap out of it. Worked great after that.
Finally, after many hours of cleaning up and checking things, we tried to start it with fresh gas. It fired, but wouldn't stay running. Hooking up the booster cables to my dad's Silverado did the trick. I guess the battery, although fully charged, just didn't have enough juice to keep it running.
After getting it running, I let it warm up and took a quick drive to warm up the engine oil so that I could change it. Changed the oil and filter, checked the cooling system again, and everything was good!
The oil pressure is about where it should be, roughly 2 kg/cm2 at idle, and around 4.0 - 4.5 kg/cm2 at 3000 RPM when the engine is at norm. operating temperature.
I will be changing the coolant this weekend, and I have spark plugs, fuel filter, and brake parts on order for sometime next week.
For a $400 car, I'd say I'm doing really damn good!
I'll keep you all up to date. You can see pics and stuff on my website at http://users.efni.com/~tvaughan/rx7/
Tom
Thanks for all the helpful suggestions!
After I had it towed home last Friday, I did the ATF treatment while I charged up the battery.
The oil was very clean, so I left it in there until I got it to fire up. I topped up the cooling system, made sure the belts were tight, and checked all of the spark plugs and wires. The car must have been in good running shape when they parked it...
I drained out the fuel tank (thanks to the handy drain plug in the bottom of the tank, I have never seen that on any other cars!!). We quickly discovered that the fuel pump was not pumping. We pulled the pump, disassembled it, and cleaned all the crap out of it. Worked great after that.
Finally, after many hours of cleaning up and checking things, we tried to start it with fresh gas. It fired, but wouldn't stay running. Hooking up the booster cables to my dad's Silverado did the trick. I guess the battery, although fully charged, just didn't have enough juice to keep it running.
After getting it running, I let it warm up and took a quick drive to warm up the engine oil so that I could change it. Changed the oil and filter, checked the cooling system again, and everything was good!
The oil pressure is about where it should be, roughly 2 kg/cm2 at idle, and around 4.0 - 4.5 kg/cm2 at 3000 RPM when the engine is at norm. operating temperature.
I will be changing the coolant this weekend, and I have spark plugs, fuel filter, and brake parts on order for sometime next week.
For a $400 car, I'd say I'm doing really damn good!
I'll keep you all up to date. You can see pics and stuff on my website at http://users.efni.com/~tvaughan/rx7/
Tom
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Keep us posted to keep the thread going or keep updating your web site! I have an FC on jacks that hasn't been driven in two years that I am sure is going to need work. I am a novice & could learn from your adventure!
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: New Orleans
hey guys. Good score on the car but I beat you on the price. I got mine for 200 bucks. But anywho. Thats not the point. My question is basicly on the same line as above but I just wanted to ask myself. I have an 88 GXL and I bought it from a friend of mine. The car hasnt been driven in say 2 years. He changed spark plugs and wires, coils, Mass air meter, put fresh gas, new battery,new fuel pump and so forth. Cranked the car and nothing happened it seemed that gas was getting through but not reaching the plugs to fire. I heard about using automatic trans. fluid in the top spark plugs and unhooking the coils and cranking it and then hooking everything back up. and cranking it again and it should work. Is this true. I am very new to this and I tried searching for this and this post came up. Please have pitty on me and if it has been posted before can you please direct me. Thanks in advance everyone.
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