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Is this rotor still usable?

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Old 11-17-13, 10:56 AM
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TX Is this rotor still usable?

I recently traded my vert for a hatch and received a bucket of rotary parts, which includes 2 rotors and an eccentric shaft (both of which he said were from an S4 turbo). All parts look in pretty good shape, and even have the same weight markings on them, with the exception of this one blemish on one of the rotors. I was planning to sell these for a pretty cheap price here on the forum, but I fear this damage to the rotor may make it unfit for re-use in a rebuild. Hopefully some of you more knowledgeable members can let me know for sure if it will still be fine in an engine or not. If not its off to the parts washer for both rotors and the e-shaft and I'll make some cool furniture or something out of them.

Here is a picture of the damage I'm talking about. It isn't huge or too deep, but it is right next to the apex of the rotor which is what leads me to believe it is junk.


One more picture that isn't as good.
Old 11-17-13, 02:18 PM
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ahhh, by the first picture. no
Old 11-17-13, 07:13 PM
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understood. Taking suggestions on what could be made out of 2 rotors and an e-shaft. like a lamp for example.
Old 11-17-13, 10:20 PM
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A clock? Mantle piece? Put it somewhere in the garage and can talk about it with your buddies while bsing and drinking beer?

Lots of options lol
Old 11-17-13, 11:03 PM
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Surface imperfections like that can create hotspots which increase the likely hood of pre-ignition. Rotors are pretty solid, and chances are one COULD use that rotor on a Non-turbo build.
But really, would you take the chance to build an engine with a sub-standard critical component? probably not, the small savings and large risk are not worth the price of a good condition rotor

I'd degrease and polish it up, and keep it on my computer desk or coffee table, it'd make a nice conversation starter :P
Old 11-18-13, 08:47 AM
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If the the apex seal clearance is fine and the corner seal moves freely it is "OK" to use. Not desirable but if clearances check out it is fine to use in a budget rebuild. I'm not sure there is much credibility to the "hot spot" argument considering the whole rotor is covered in carbon within a couple thousand miles on most turbo rotary setups.
Old 11-18-13, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by djseven
If the the apex seal clearance is fine and the corner seal moves freely it is "OK" to use. Not desirable but if clearances check out it is fine to use in a budget rebuild. I'm not sure there is much credibility to the "hot spot" argument considering the whole rotor is covered in carbon within a couple thousand miles on most turbo rotary setups.
No way that rotor would hold a seal. It would end up falling out/getting blown out as soon as it started spinning.

As for what to make out of the rotor/E shaft, you could make a cool looking coat rack, I guess.
Old 11-18-13, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by djseven
If the the apex seal clearance is fine and the corner seal moves freely it is "OK" to use. Not desirable but if clearances check out it is fine to use in a budget rebuild. I'm not sure there is much credibility to the "hot spot" argument considering the whole rotor is covered in carbon within a couple thousand miles on most turbo rotary setups.
That's a fair point about carbon buildup, I run my FD at 15.0 AFR at the cruise range to clean out carbon buildup, in my case an imperfection on the surface of the rotor can heat up and act almost like a sparkplug, igniting the fuel mixture before the plugs fire. I guess this goes back to a low end budget build, but there aren't too many people who will build a rotary to have a cheap, fuel efficient family car... ;p
Old 11-18-13, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dnt 2.5
No way that rotor would hold a seal. It would end up falling out/getting blown out as soon as it started spinning.
Do everyone a favor and please stop using the Internet.
Old 11-18-13, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by blacksheep7
That's a fair point about carbon buildup, I run my FD at 15.0 AFR at the cruise range to clean out carbon buildup, in my case an imperfection on the surface of the rotor can heat up and act almost like a sparkplug, igniting the fuel mixture before the plugs fire. I guess this goes back to a low end budget build, but there aren't too many people who will build a rotary to have a cheap, fuel efficient family car... ;p
Running the car lean"er" at cruise won't clean off any carbon that has built up on the rotors. Water/meth injection will help over time but the best preventative is pre-mix only and deleting the omp.
Old 11-18-13, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by djseven
Do everyone a favor and please stop using the Internet.
Are you trying to tell me you would ever put that in a rebuild? Do you enjoy redoing work because you didn't do it properly?

If you do half-assed work, its not going to work well. This rotor might work, but why even bother?
Old 11-18-13, 07:40 PM
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Would I put it in a customers car? No. Would it likely run flawlessly in an engine? Yes, assuming clearances checked out.

There is no way in the world the seal would "fall or get blown out". If you think that is a possibility you do not have a base knowledge of how this engine works and surely don't have first hand experience building them. Is it desirable?No. Is it usable? Sure,if clearances check out.
Old 11-18-13, 08:31 PM
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That is definitely supposed to say "fail" not "fall".

If its going to work perfectly, why wouldn't you put it in a customer's car? The same reason you shouldn't use it, the chances of it failing are increased.

I was assuming the clearances were fucked, just as they were in mine, that had similar damage around the same area.

Regardless, just because it works doesn't mean its ok to use.
Old 11-19-13, 11:46 PM
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Dang I sparked a whole argument haha. I am just going to clean them up and keep the rotors on my desk. Not really sure what to do with the e-shaft. Might post some pics of that as well and see if anybody here needs it provided it is in good shape.

On that note, what would be the best way to clean and keep them around without them rusting? I know a simple spray with the hose probably isn't the best idea.
Old 11-20-13, 10:09 AM
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You can polish them up with a buffing wheel, just like any other piece of metal.
I think krylon makes a clear laquer spray that you can spray on metal to stop it from rusting. It's just like a clear spraypaint.
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