I would like to know what parts that I can use from the Renesis-shelf and straight into a 13B rew or TII engine?
Part numbers would be nice...
But all your tips are welcome.

 

Stationary gears front and rear. The seal is different in the rear but its easy to solve the problem. Rotors also will work. That is as far as I've researched, I'm using Renesis stationary gears.

 

Far as I know its usally not a good combo putting na parts in to a forced induction engine.

 

Rocking Rotary: erm, i think almost all motor parts on the fc's are the same between n/a and turbo besides oil pump and rotors (compression).
not positive, but im pretty sure.
The e-shafts, gears, etc etc etc seem to be good for whatever but just have been improved gradually. I'm sure the renesis does have some parts that are not as well suited to boost, but these internals are all very strong until you start detonating or over-revving extremely
I am far from an expert and just a forum *****.

Some people have used the renny rotors by cutting the apex seal deeper and saw on mtrix that the stat gears work.

-Ben Martin

 

some of what you say has validity but you guys can also swap housings and the na housings are not able to handel boost at all. And for the ren motor parts I am sure some parts are improved but when you boost those engines they seem to be blowing side seals instead of the apex now that seams like a step back to me.

Fun thing was when I was getting some parts for my fd the sales man said I should tade in my fd for a rx8 becouse they were making the same power, which we all know now is a lie, and there egines will take to boost better than the REW. Its just funny what the salesman think of.

 

There must be a few more off you rotary fans that have answers??

 

Hello Arvika! I have built 2 PP 13B engines with RX-8 rotors and 2mm Hurley race apex seals. The rally motor was 285 hp and the race motor was 300+hp. I use machined and prepped FC gears,excenticshaft,sidehousings and rotorhousings, it all worked out fine! Next engine will be a PP rallycross engine for a customer in Norway and expected output is near 320 hp using a Gene Berg 54mm carb and Efitec distriburless ignition and a few other tricks. Fuel will be Shell 99 octane. I will keep you updated!

/Lasse

 

Hi Lasse,

What corner seals have you used, and did you have any problems with side seal clearances?

What carbs are you running on the rally and race motors?

Ray

 

I know !!!

 

Mazda came out with longer side seals. Basicaly you cut to fit.

 

Hi! I use stock 2 mm 89-95 cornerseals. Also i have so far used the longest RX-8
side seals for minimum combustion blowby. Nice to hear that Chrispeed mention that there is a cutable (right word?) side seals. So far over the years i have only used Modified Weber 48 IDA carbs bored to 51 mm and tuned chokes air horns and so on.

This winter i am about to build a new 13B PP engine with Gene Berg carb 54 mm
w/ 48 mm chokes so the engine really can breath!
Are you into rally or rallycross yourself?

/Lasse

 

You're going to love that Gene Berg. The next best thing to EFI and 55mm TB's.

 

That's what i like to hear! Hope i will reach the 320 hp barrierr under 10 000 rpm then i know the engine has some torque! Have you any new ideas for the Travieso Racing RX-3? Could it break into the nine's this summer? As you know i'm very curious and if you don't mind asking you, what's the set up for Traviesos PP engine?? I really hope that my dyno operator have time for me next weekend with a of me built 13B PP engine which we should check the maximum power of and fine tune some more. Maybe we have time to bolt on the Gene Berg 54 mm carby?!

/Lasse

 

Hi Lasse,

Long term view is race (http://www.classictouringcars.com). My original idea was to bridgeport an old skool 13b, retaining the old heavy 3mm rotors, keeping it cheap and cheerful...BUT I've managed to get hold of an RX-8 4 port engine with a waterseal gone. So now I'm not sure which way to go, which parts to keep old skool and which parts to upgrade...any suggestions? Cost and reliability are more important than ultimate performance with my limited budget

Thanks

Ray

 

Hi Ray! I think it's more costly to get hp of an RX-8 motor becausse you must as i see it use a good stand alone fuel/ignition box. With "only" 194 hp from factory spec i think it's hard to get over 220+ hp with stock intake manifold and unported. Pros are that the engine will last a long time compared to the old 13B. But a 13B bridgeport engine will give you more hp easily and that's with the tried and true Weber IDA carby. I dyno'd 259 hp 4 years ago of an old 1975 block that was ported with a mild J-bridge MSD-7s and a good 3"exhaust system. I can build you a bridgeport if you want dynotested and everything if you like. Hope you will race this year!

/Lasse

 

This issue has been resolved.. with y GoopyApexSeals ,...
now you can use our OEM spec seals on RX8 rotors without having to worry about them bending on the exaust port.
Try them on your next rebuild...on your next rebuild. .
wwww.GoopyApexSeals.com
845-947-0007
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Buy them at

Delears:
*Puerto Rico:*
Mayol Speed Shop
Edificio M950
Carretera 149KM 9.2 Expresso a Manati
Manati Puerto Rico 00638
787-884-9044

*Florida USA Orlando:*
KiloRacing/RaceTech USA
Kilo or Carlos
9793 South Orange Blossom Trailway (OBT)
Orlando, Fl 32837
407-438-5467 or 321-229-6140

*Florida USA Tampa:*
New Import Speed Shop & Parts
Ramon Tossas
8000B N Armenia Ave
Tampa, FL 33604
813-936-3222

 

Hi Lasse,
I'm not planning to use RX-8 housings or plates; the championship regulations I'm building for requires me to use the old style RX-4 type housings (and carbs), although the internal components are free. So is it feasible to use the RX-8 stationary gears, eccentric shaft and rotors with the old housings and plates or is there something I'm missing?
The issues I've seen raised are:
1). Corner seals wrecking older housings, so need to use FC or Atkins corner seals
2). Side seal clearances, Mazda are now producing longer seals for cut off (thanks Crispeed), although not sure if we can get them yet in Europe?
3). RX-8 Apex seal not coping with peripheral exhaust, opinion seems to be split US guys say they can warp, some guys from down under say it's not a problem...
4). If RX-8 apex is used, then bridge needs to be big enough to stop the assist from falling in, or alternatively mill rotors for 3mm carbon.
5). If RX-8 apex is used, what corner seal should be used?
6). Will it actually give better power and reliability?

Looking at posts from here, ausrotary and nopistons there seems to be a lot of contradictory information. Help!. If it's not feasible, does anybody want to buy an RX-8 engine! )

PS Lasse, thanks for the offer of the engine build, but I want to do this engine myself..it's good for my education

 

Hi
Hope this help you.
1.Resurface your plates and then you gas nitrited them.
2.Crispeed has answer you.
3.Machining the groove to 3mm and use carbon seals.
4.Yes thats right !! So machine the groove to 3mm and use the late carbon seal.
5.Use the rx8 seals that fit to the apex seals.
6.The reliability on your engine is what you made it to.You can get from 275-300 hk depending what ignition and fuel system you run.

 

Sorry! But I would like this topic to be cleen from other discussions...

I have another question...
I have heard that there are a diffrence beetwen the parts in a Renesis engine build for automatic transmission and the engine for the 6-speed. Is that so???
And what parts would be interchangeble with older 13B engines if that's so??

 

I've opened J-spec auto RX-8 motors and one thing that's obvious is that they don't use the grooved stationary gear or the multi window bearing and off course they are only 4-port motors.
I've also heard and read that the stationary gears for the rx-8 were designed to work with the rx-8 rotors something to do with the design of the teeth but we've been using series 6 or FD stationary gears with RX-8 rotors at 11K rpm without any problems.