rebuild flooding, needs MMO to start.
#1
rebuild flooding, needs MMO to start.
Been battling my rebuild in my FD. Stock port. It floods really easy. The only way to start it is to pour in some MMO, it fires right up and I can idle it for 20 mins or so, then i shut it off. If i try and start it again it sometimes will start, or will kinda putt along as long as the starter is engaged. If it doesnt start I can pour in some more MMO and it can idle again. I dont have a compression tester but these symptoms seem like I have low compression. If i remove my sparkplugs the chugs seem to sound fine while cranking. Coolant system seems to be sealed tight, not loosing any coolant, nor is the system getting presureized. I am however burning off a shitload of MMO. I think my intake and exhaust are coated in that **** at this point and burning it off is pissing the **** out of my neighbors. Anyone know what I can do to get this thing working right?
#2
first of all what is "MMO". The chugs you hear do they all sound the same or is there a pattern to the chugs. They should all be the same, any pattern indicates there is a compression change between the rotor sides. Next, after you get the car to warm up while it's idling attach a 1/4 hose to one of the vaccume lines that goes into the intake manifold and drop the other end into a gallon of distilled!! water. let it suck in the water till the gallon is done. at idle the vaccume should be enough to suck in the water a a slow rate, you will see white smoke (water vaper) come out the exhaust this is normal and good. Hopefully you will also see some darker smoke which should be the carbon built up on the rotor face and seals. This should help clean out the rotor housing. After this you should pull the spart plugs and listen again to the chugs. Let me know how this goes and well take it from there.
#3
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by Curtisleeyoung
first of all what is "MMO". ...
... Hopefully you will also see some darker smoke which should be the carbon built up on the rotor face and seals. This should help clean out the rotor housing. After this you should pull the spart plugs and listen again to the chugs. Let me know how this goes and well take it from there.
... Hopefully you will also see some darker smoke which should be the carbon built up on the rotor face and seals. This should help clean out the rotor housing. After this you should pull the spart plugs and listen again to the chugs. Let me know how this goes and well take it from there.
it's a rebuilt engine, and i think that i would dare say that if he had that much carbon built up already they never cleaned the rotors in the first place and that would lead me to suspect their work.
Aeka GSR ~
with that said, who rebuilt the motor? what were the circumstances for the rebuild in the first place? and did you receive an inventory on new parts used?
obviously you have started the car a few times, but have you driven it yet? does it feel like it's making stock power?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
09-16-18 07:16 PM
PinkRacer
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
43
10-01-15 09:13 AM