Questions regarding run in for a new engine
01-29-12, 02:01 PM
#1
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Questions regarding run in for a new engine
Apologies. I am 100% sure I've seen this answered (probably lots of times) - but although I've searched I've failed to find reference to "run in" or "break in" on the site.
So, my question is:
My engine's finally been built. Run in. Do the old "1000km light tune run around the streets?" or stick it on the dyno under varying loads for 3 hours?
My Tuner here say's he does the later (for a variety of cars / types, inc rotary).
What's been your experience in this? Is there any good reason I should do a classic run in that you can think of? I am aware of the issue of glazing a bore on a piston engine - but didn't know if there was any good reason to avoid doing the dyno method on a rotary.
The engine in question:
a) has new rotor housings
b) is using completely new seals and springs, and corner seals
c) is running ceramic apex seals
d) has had it's side plates machined
e) i.e: everything is essentially new (apart from side housings, and rotors).
Of course; if this is a simple repeat, do please punt me in the direction of an appropriate thread(s).
Thanks, and "hi" from New Zealand
Neil
So, my question is:
My engine's finally been built. Run in. Do the old "1000km light tune run around the streets?" or stick it on the dyno under varying loads for 3 hours?
My Tuner here say's he does the later (for a variety of cars / types, inc rotary).
What's been your experience in this? Is there any good reason I should do a classic run in that you can think of? I am aware of the issue of glazing a bore on a piston engine - but didn't know if there was any good reason to avoid doing the dyno method on a rotary.
The engine in question:
a) has new rotor housings
b) is using completely new seals and springs, and corner seals
c) is running ceramic apex seals
d) has had it's side plates machined
e) i.e: everything is essentially new (apart from side housings, and rotors).
Of course; if this is a simple repeat, do please punt me in the direction of an appropriate thread(s).
Thanks, and "hi" from New Zealand
Neil
01-29-12, 02:59 PM
#3
You're going to get a lot of opinions on this. Given the amount of parts replaced, I would drive it around easy on the street just to make sure that you don't have any leaks or other issues. Give it a few heat cycles so things can settle in. Then slowly increase the loads--part throttle for a while, full throttle at low boost, then higher boost. It's not so much about the break-in of the components themselves, but rather making sure that the engine is mechanically sound and the tuning is correct.
01-29-12, 04:27 PM
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you're going to get a lot of opinions on this. Given the amount of parts replaced, i would drive it around easy on the street just to make sure that you don't have any leaks or other issues. Give it a few heat cycles so things can settle in. Then slowly increase the loads--part throttle for a while, full throttle at low boost, then higher boost. It's not so much about the break-in of the components themselves, but rather making sure that the engine is mechanically sound and the tuning is correct.
01-29-12, 06:16 PM
#5
personally i believe you shouldn't run the engine super hard in boosted applications until compression has peaked, or tune it until then. otherwise you should redo the tune once it has completely broken in.
but with brand new housings and ceramic seals the compression is going to be maxed with a single heat cycle of the engine.
but with brand new housings and ceramic seals the compression is going to be maxed with a single heat cycle of the engine.
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