revvvin7

Pretty simple and straight forward question here. Would a disconnected PVC line cause a high ilde? I recently finished a fresh rebuild and have put everything back together and started the car. I am having a problem with my idle though. When I get it started it idles at 2000 RPM and if I turn the bleeder screw all the way tight and then mess with the TPS screw I can get it to start bouncing from 800-1500 but it doesn't sound very good. When I loosen these back up to pre rebuild positioning it goes back to 2000RPM.

The reason I ask about the PVC(which I THINK is the pipe that feeds back into the oil filler neck) is the last time I looked I didn't have that line feeding back into the oil filler neck. It was basically not connected to anything at the time. Since then I have put it back into place on the oil filler neck but I haven't gotten a chance to start the car since. I was searching for a few ideas as to what was wrong with my idle and found one other person in a older thread bring up the PVC. Could this have been my problem? If not what else do you suggest I check? Is there a way to check if my have a major vaccum leak somewhere? Any help would be very much appericiated.

revvvin7

Sorry I posted twice but didn't seem like anyone in the 3rd Gen section had any idea what I was talking about or jsut didn't know.

redcon

[B]The only reason I think you can't set the idle down even when you run the idle adjust screw all the way down is due to bypass air. You probably have a vacum leak somewhere. The best way I have found to find a vacum leak is simply spraying carb spray around intake and other vacum lines. Make sure you haven't inadvertantly hooked up a vac line where it shoudn't be. A vacum diagram would be needed in this case. If the problem wasn't there before the rebuild then you crated it. I haven't reall y heard about the pvc before but I guess it is possible that this could be screwing things up. Good Luck