Please help
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From: Montana
Please help
I'm new to this and this is my first Rx. I bought an 87 turbo 2. The guy I bought it from had to replace the turbo cause it was blown. He said he got a new one from Japan. He had to put all the innards from the new turbo into the old turbo housing cause it wouldn't bolt up right. Now it won't idle unless I keep my foot on the gas and it backfires and doesn't seem to have the power it should. I have set the timing and the tps. I just found out today it has a rtek 1.7 upgrade with bigger injectors and fuel pump. I was told the Japan turbos are s5 and mine is an s4 and that's more then likely my problem. Anyone say the same? Thank you
Welcome. First of all, just because it's an s5 turbo doesn't mean it won't work on your s4. People go back and forth between the two all the time, just the way the different series turbos bolt to the exhaust manifold is different. This guy doesn't sound like he knew too much...he could swapped over an s5 manifold and it would have been a bolt-on. Since it sounds like this was a DIY turbo rebuild/hybrid/however you want to look at it, THAT is more likely your issue than the fact it's an s5. Unless there was a communication breakdown and the swapping of the manifold is what he's describing as so laborious.
Secondly, the RTEK is notoriously a DIYer ECU. No professional tuner in their right mind touches those things (have you ever tried to mess with it?!). I'm betting captain ding-dong tuned it himself, which is an issue since we already established he wasn't too bright.
It's common for the emissions and "rats nest" to be removed for simplicity on these cars. Unfortunately, half that equipment is there to hold idle and with such a basic ECU and lack of knowledge, it's usually very difficult to get the car to run properly. Not saying it hasn't been done, but the cards aren't in your favor thanks to the previous owners setup choices.
Finally, you, or someone mechanically inclined needs to give the car a go over. You just dove into someone else's mess, you need to check for boost leaks, see what equipment has been deleted, double check vacuum line routing, injector operation, etc. Buying one of these cars used and getting into someone else's project can be overwhelming and expensive if you don't know what you're doing.
Don't be scared off, just be prepared to spend either a lot of your time or money to straighten this thing out. People do it every day on here
Secondly, the RTEK is notoriously a DIYer ECU. No professional tuner in their right mind touches those things (have you ever tried to mess with it?!). I'm betting captain ding-dong tuned it himself, which is an issue since we already established he wasn't too bright.
It's common for the emissions and "rats nest" to be removed for simplicity on these cars. Unfortunately, half that equipment is there to hold idle and with such a basic ECU and lack of knowledge, it's usually very difficult to get the car to run properly. Not saying it hasn't been done, but the cards aren't in your favor thanks to the previous owners setup choices.
Finally, you, or someone mechanically inclined needs to give the car a go over. You just dove into someone else's mess, you need to check for boost leaks, see what equipment has been deleted, double check vacuum line routing, injector operation, etc. Buying one of these cars used and getting into someone else's project can be overwhelming and expensive if you don't know what you're doing.
Don't be scared off, just be prepared to spend either a lot of your time or money to straighten this thing out. People do it every day on here
Thread Starter
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From: Montana
Welcome. First of all, just because it's an s5 turbo doesn't mean it won't work on your s4. People go back and forth between the two all the time, just the way the different series turbos bolt to the exhaust manifold is different. This guy doesn't sound like he knew too much...he could swapped over an s5 manifold and it would have been a bolt-on. Since it sounds like this was a DIY turbo rebuild/hybrid/however you want to look at it, THAT is more likely your issue than the fact it's an s5. Unless there was a communication breakdown and the swapping of the manifold is what he's describing as so laborious.
Secondly, the RTEK is notoriously a DIYer ECU. No professional tuner in their right mind touches those things (have you ever tried to mess with it?!). I'm betting captain ding-dong tuned it himself, which is an issue since we already established he wasn't too bright.
It's common for the emissions and "rats nest" to be removed for simplicity on these cars. Unfortunately, half that equipment is there to hold idle and with such a basic ECU and lack of knowledge, it's usually very difficult to get the car to run properly. Not saying it hasn't been done, but the cards aren't in your favor thanks to the previous owners setup choices.
Finally, you, or someone mechanically inclined needs to give the car a go over. You just dove into someone else's mess, you need to check for boost leaks, see what equipment has been deleted, double check vacuum line routing, injector operation, etc. Buying one of these cars used and getting into someone else's project can be overwhelming and expensive if you don't know what you're doing.
Don't be scared off, just be prepared to spend either a lot of your time or money to straighten this thing out. People do it every day on here
Secondly, the RTEK is notoriously a DIYer ECU. No professional tuner in their right mind touches those things (have you ever tried to mess with it?!). I'm betting captain ding-dong tuned it himself, which is an issue since we already established he wasn't too bright.
It's common for the emissions and "rats nest" to be removed for simplicity on these cars. Unfortunately, half that equipment is there to hold idle and with such a basic ECU and lack of knowledge, it's usually very difficult to get the car to run properly. Not saying it hasn't been done, but the cards aren't in your favor thanks to the previous owners setup choices.
Finally, you, or someone mechanically inclined needs to give the car a go over. You just dove into someone else's mess, you need to check for boost leaks, see what equipment has been deleted, double check vacuum line routing, injector operation, etc. Buying one of these cars used and getting into someone else's project can be overwhelming and expensive if you don't know what you're doing.
Don't be scared off, just be prepared to spend either a lot of your time or money to straighten this thing out. People do it every day on here
My first question is how long have you held the throttle and attempted to keep it running? Trying holding it running until it's fully warm, THEN take your foot off throttle and see what happens. These cars need to warm up a little before holding idle, that's what some of the "emissions" equipment is supposed to help with when installed and working properly. Also, a boost leak could be causing a similar issue.
Your issue may coincide with when the turbo was swapped, but remember, other components were removed in that process and it's very likely king ding-a-ling left a big vac leak or misplaced a line for you to find.
In regards to your question about RTEK...with patience. It's a very archaic and painful process, you tune it with a palm pilot or a PP simulator on laptop/phone. This was cutting edge 10+ years ago and had its place, but not so much any more. If you have the time, you'll need to read up on the forum, there's an entire subsection devoted to RTEK. If you have the money instead, you'll be much better off in the long run investing in a modern ECU like an Adaptronic. The two are in entirely different leagues as far as both functionality and price are concerned though.
Go through the mechanical checks I mentioned in my original reply first, that will usually save you time, money, and headache. The factory service manual can be found online (links all over this site) for free and can help you in testing/troubleshooting a lot of your systems once you pass boost leak test.
Your issue may coincide with when the turbo was swapped, but remember, other components were removed in that process and it's very likely king ding-a-ling left a big vac leak or misplaced a line for you to find.
In regards to your question about RTEK...with patience. It's a very archaic and painful process, you tune it with a palm pilot or a PP simulator on laptop/phone. This was cutting edge 10+ years ago and had its place, but not so much any more. If you have the time, you'll need to read up on the forum, there's an entire subsection devoted to RTEK. If you have the money instead, you'll be much better off in the long run investing in a modern ECU like an Adaptronic. The two are in entirely different leagues as far as both functionality and price are concerned though.
Go through the mechanical checks I mentioned in my original reply first, that will usually save you time, money, and headache. The factory service manual can be found online (links all over this site) for free and can help you in testing/troubleshooting a lot of your systems once you pass boost leak test.
Thread Starter
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From: Montana
My first question is how long have you held the throttle and attempted to keep it running? Trying holding it running until it's fully warm, THEN take your foot off throttle and see what happens. These cars need to warm up a little before holding idle, that's what some of the "emissions" equipment is supposed to help with when installed and working properly. Also, a boost leak could be causing a similar issue.
Your issue may coincide with when the turbo was swapped, but remember, other components were removed in that process and it's very likely king ding-a-ling left a big vac leak or misplaced a line for you to find.
In regards to your question about RTEK...with patience. It's a very archaic and painful process, you tune it with a palm pilot or a PP simulator on laptop/phone. This was cutting edge 10+ years ago and had its place, but not so much any more. If you have the time, you'll need to read up on the forum, there's an entire subsection devoted to RTEK. If you have the money instead, you'll be much better off in the long run investing in a modern ECU like an Adaptronic. The two are in entirely different leagues as far as both functionality and price are concerned though.
Go through the mechanical checks I mentioned in my original reply first, that will usually save you time, money, and headache. The factory service manual can be found online (links all over this site) for free and can help you in testing/troubleshooting a lot of your systems once you pass boost leak test.
Your issue may coincide with when the turbo was swapped, but remember, other components were removed in that process and it's very likely king ding-a-ling left a big vac leak or misplaced a line for you to find.
In regards to your question about RTEK...with patience. It's a very archaic and painful process, you tune it with a palm pilot or a PP simulator on laptop/phone. This was cutting edge 10+ years ago and had its place, but not so much any more. If you have the time, you'll need to read up on the forum, there's an entire subsection devoted to RTEK. If you have the money instead, you'll be much better off in the long run investing in a modern ECU like an Adaptronic. The two are in entirely different leagues as far as both functionality and price are concerned though.
Go through the mechanical checks I mentioned in my original reply first, that will usually save you time, money, and headache. The factory service manual can be found online (links all over this site) for free and can help you in testing/troubleshooting a lot of your systems once you pass boost leak test.
Originally Posted by Love turbo
I let it warm up. The gauge doesn't go up to the halfway mark but the heater blows nice and hot and it will still die. It acts as if I just turned the key off. But if I pump the gas it will pick back up and backfire. I'm definitely going to be looking around the turbo for anything out of the ordinary. I will also check into getting a different ECU. If I change that will it still work with the bigger injectors and fuel pump?
The needle position the gauge is at is normal for your s4 when fully warm. When you see it approaching 1/2 it means you're already in trouble!
Yes, when you change ECU nearly anything else out there will be more sophisticated than what you have now (with the exception of some of the Japanese tuner "chipped" ECUs which offer no tuneability). Keep in mind whatever you get, including what you already have, should be tuned by someone who knows what they're doing. The rotary is not forgiving to tuning mistakes.
Thread Starter
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From: Montana
This is smelling like a vacuum leak to me.
The needle position the gauge is at is normal for your s4 when fully warm. When you see it approaching 1/2 it means you're already in trouble!
Yes, when you change ECU nearly anything else out there will be more sophisticated than what you have now (with the exception of some of the Japanese tuner "chipped" ECUs which offer no tuneability). Keep in mind whatever you get, including what you already have, should be tuned by someone who knows what they're doing. The rotary is not forgiving to tuning mistakes.
The needle position the gauge is at is normal for your s4 when fully warm. When you see it approaching 1/2 it means you're already in trouble!
Yes, when you change ECU nearly anything else out there will be more sophisticated than what you have now (with the exception of some of the Japanese tuner "chipped" ECUs which offer no tuneability). Keep in mind whatever you get, including what you already have, should be tuned by someone who knows what they're doing. The rotary is not forgiving to tuning mistakes.
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Originally Posted by Love turbo
I just found out that my RX has a manual boost controller. If that is hooked up backwards will that cause the way it's running? And also what are you referring to when you say rats nest? It still has all the emissions stuff. Can I take out the air pump with no problems? Thank you again for all the info
The emissions rack, and the emissions system in general is referred to as the rats nest. That's the key search term to get any emissions removal info. See the below site for more info:
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...emisremov.html
To answer you're question about the air pump: yes the car will run, but be prepared to install a dual sheave pulley on the alternator, otherwise the waterpump will no longer have enough contact area with the belt and slip.
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From: Montana
I would identify the brand of BC and verify it is hooked up correctly. If you're unsure if it's set up correctly, simply bypass it for troubleshooting purposes.
The emissions rack, and the emissions system in general is referred to as the rats nest. That's the key search term to get any emissions removal info. See the below site for more info:
Emissions Removal
To answer you're question about the air pump: yes the car will run, but be prepared to install a dual sheave pulley on the alternator, otherwise the waterpump will no longer have enough contact area with the belt and slip.
The emissions rack, and the emissions system in general is referred to as the rats nest. That's the key search term to get any emissions removal info. See the below site for more info:
Emissions Removal
To answer you're question about the air pump: yes the car will run, but be prepared to install a dual sheave pulley on the alternator, otherwise the waterpump will no longer have enough contact area with the belt and slip.
Originally Posted by Love turbo
So. I bypassed the bc and the car idles for about a minute on its own. Sounds like it's running smoother. I think the douche that put the turbo in ran vacuum lines to the wrong places. I'm looking up vacuum line diagrams to know for sure. With the different ecu can I run without the boost controller?
Continue what you're doing now. Get the car to run/idle, check your line routing, get the mechanicals all up to snuff. Then when you're ready, you can try to reinstall or replace the boost controller you're currently using. We personally use Hallman MBCs at our shop on cars that aren't running EBC.
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From: Montana
[QUOTE=DC5Daniel;12048412]
I got the car to idle on its own. I hooked the turbo straight to the waste gate. Pretty much back to stock. Found one of the lines that goes to the intake tube was not there. And another one had silicone plugging it. (Don't know why). So. I took the silicone out and put the one way valve in the other hole and capped off the line cause I don't know where it goes. The idle jumps from 1k to 1500. Then I drove the car to the gas station and it has no power. Boosts about 6lbs.
Kind of backfires on deceleration. Smells a little rich to. Could it be flooding itself out? Maybe not firing on all the plugs?
I got the car to idle on its own. I hooked the turbo straight to the waste gate. Pretty much back to stock. Found one of the lines that goes to the intake tube was not there. And another one had silicone plugging it. (Don't know why). So. I took the silicone out and put the one way valve in the other hole and capped off the line cause I don't know where it goes. The idle jumps from 1k to 1500. Then I drove the car to the gas station and it has no power. Boosts about 6lbs.
Kind of backfires on deceleration. Smells a little rich to. Could it be flooding itself out? Maybe not firing on all the plugs?
Last edited by Love turbo; Apr 6, 2016 at 11:42 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Montana
[QUOTE=Love turbo;12048697]
Should I advance the timing a little for the rtek chip
I got the car to idle on its own. I hooked the turbo straight to the waste gate. Pretty much back to stock. Found one of the lines that goes to the intake tube was not there. And another one had silicone plugging it. (Don't know why). So. I took the silicone out and put the one way valve in the other hole and capped off the line cause I don't know where it goes. The idle jumps from 1k to 1500. Then I drove the car to the gas station and it has no power. Boosts about 6lbs.
Kind of backfires on deceleration. Smells a little rich to. Could it be flooding itself out? Maybe not firing on all the plugs?
Kind of backfires on deceleration. Smells a little rich to. Could it be flooding itself out? Maybe not firing on all the plugs?
DONT MESS WITH CAS AKA TIMING just yet! if it was fine before then hopefully its in the same spot.
I have a s4 rx7 with a s5 turbo and a rtek 1.7. runs fine now after DIY fuel cut switch, checking replacing vacuum lines and setting TPS correctly. took several tries to get right, lots of searching on here and google man lol. will try to help out if I can.
I have a s4 rx7 with a s5 turbo and a rtek 1.7. runs fine now after DIY fuel cut switch, checking replacing vacuum lines and setting TPS correctly. took several tries to get right, lots of searching on here and google man lol. will try to help out if I can.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2016
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From: Montana
DONT MESS WITH CAS AKA TIMING just yet! if it was fine before then hopefully its in the same spot.
I have a s4 rx7 with a s5 turbo and a rtek 1.7. runs fine now after DIY fuel cut switch, checking replacing vacuum lines and setting TPS correctly. took several tries to get right, lots of searching on here and google man lol. will try to help out if I can.
I have a s4 rx7 with a s5 turbo and a rtek 1.7. runs fine now after DIY fuel cut switch, checking replacing vacuum lines and setting TPS correctly. took several tries to get right, lots of searching on here and google man lol. will try to help out if I can.
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