ioTus

iTrader: (5)

87-88 j-spec tii engine block, blowthrough carb setup.

Hey guys, i have a very tricky problem for you!!!

My car will run for about a minute, then it will just die out. The engine seizes, and the starter CANNOT move it past this point. It is also impossible to crank it by hand, the way the engine normally turns (counter-clockwise, as looking from the front of the car).

If i crank it by hand, OPPOSITE the operation direction (as in, clockwise), i can un-stick it and turn the car on again.I dont have to turn it far, just about an inch, enough to un-stick it. Again, it runs for one minute and seizes.

WHAT GIVES!??!!?

what could possibly be wrong? It seems to me that whatever it is should seize after one maybe 2 rotations of the engine, not a FULL minutes worth (like, 2000-3000 spins of the engine....)

I'm trying to find someone with a compression tester in the area. APparently not a single person has one......

Thanks in advance,
~Geoff

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

Also, the front rotor DOES have low/no compression on 2 sides of the rotor, however, it does still run for a minute.

I want a comp. tester, so i can get real numbers, not the by-ear method.

Project84

When standing at the front bumper looking into the engine bay, the engine rotates clockwise. It sounds like carbon lock. Maybe the inside of the engine is dirty and carbon is wedging between the apex seal and the rotor housing. Thats just a guess. I don't know how long you had the engine. Did you just get it? Is the engine running really rich? A regular compression tester for a piston engine will work on rotary engines. You can get one from Sears or a regular auto parts store. If one rotor has low compression on 2 chambers, it seems like an apex seal is bad. If it broken, it could be possible that a piece of the broken seal is wedging the rotor. but its more likely that the pieces got blown out the exhaust. Interesting dilemma you have.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

I agree with ^.

Remove the exhaust manfiold, remove the spark plugs, and turn the engine over, using a mirror to look into the exhaust ports. That way you can visually inspect your apex seals.

Also, was this engine ported? If it was poorly ported, it could easily be getting a side seal stuck as well.

If it's either seal, your S.O.L. If it's carbon Lock, a few days of ATF might do the trick.

Try running the engine N/A for a while too, just incase it wants to spit anything out, it won't screw up your snail.

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

I'm pretty sure the engine block is stock. No porting.

Removing the front spark plug and turning it over wields one whoosh of air, and NO compression on the other two sides.

I'm thinking this problem is too involved to fix myself, i may just go buy a new engine, one thta i KNOW runs.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

do like Directfreak said, this is one time i will endorse the ATF-thing. you don't even have to use ATF if you don't have it, i've used WD40 to break up carbon flakes and loosen up apex seals before. the key is patience ... soaking it for a day or two and then turning it through by hand. very important note on turning by hand is NEVER force it! of course this is no guarantee that the engine is not dead, but give it a shot. you'll never know.

of course the decision is yours, but i'm not sure if i agree with getting another engine that you "know" works because you could setting yourself up again. i'd think rebuild before buying another simply because you'll know what you're starting with.

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

I'd ideally buy a rebuilt.

RUnning it na for a few days sounds good, but that would mean i need to get a header.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

may just be a little slow ... but i'm not quite sure i follow.