FC-DRIFT

I have no idea wtf happend, I go to my boys house, nothing wrong no grinding nothing, clutch good no binding... anyways I go to leave and the sh*t won't go in gear. Turn the car off and it selects all gears fine clutch pedal pushes in fine slave pushes out everything looks good. I turn car on NO GEARS ABLE TO SELECT Friend tells me it's my master so I limp my car home clutchless shifting my sh*t. today I change the master bleed the lines... Same SH*T I'm pissed.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

could be the slave then, or the clutch disk has failed preventing it from erleasing.

have a look in the inspection plate (if it's a turbo car) at what it looks like in there, use a flashlight and rotate the engine so you can see what's going on.

FC-DRIFT

I'm hoping it's not the disk cause I put in a new OE mazda clutch not to long ago. My 4 puck did this to me but that was cause the car sat for a year.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Has there been any noticeable bearing noise lately?

FC-DRIFT

there is a slight squeek when i have the pedal released.

darkrocket

yeh I have the same problem and I still figuring it out. I just put a new clutch and pilot and throw out bearings a couple of months ago. Did u checked the shifter bushings and c if its not broken. Because that would probably caused it if it is.

darkrocket

Although i'm going 2 cut my driveshaft and stuff the t2 tranny and motor in it and buy a new clutch and run na until I get the rest of the parts I needed 2 turbo it

FC-DRIFT

Crazy stuff. I start my car today and it has no more problem. I still jacked the car up, took my starter off to check the tourqe on the bolts also had my friend depress the clutch. The disk was free and I don't know crazy stuff.

FC-DRIFT

what rear-end you have?

darkrocket

4.10s it's the same as the turbo unless you have a non-turbo s4 rear so it needs to b change to a s4 turbo to s5. I have a 90 s5 gxl it's 4.10s on every modle on s5 except the 4.30s viscous on a gtu although it's better. The fd has 4.10s. As the time goes by your problem is that your rx7 has play between the secondary slave to fork or your slaves are dead. the squeaking noise is coming from the master slave that means you don't have enough pressure to push in the secondary slave. Fyi don't use exedy or South Bend clutch their crap. South Bend clutch make their own clutches but uses Exedy pressure plate. Go with centerforce it's been provened. I'm going to change out my clutch to centerforce. Not only they been provened they built precisly for the rx7 for that reason that you don't need to change to a longer push rod and accdently blew the clutch up. Like I did just because the push rod needed to b shorten just a little bit. When I met a little bit I mean down to ten thousandths.

darkrocket

if all else fails start with the slaves then work your way up to clutch don't change the push rod.

Project84

Edit

rotarypower00

when that happened to my fb it was the slave

iggy7

Hi had this problem last week with mine,clutch pedal went 2 floor and had 2 lift it back up and wudnt go in2 gear while running,my mechanic said sounds like slave or master cylinder so had them changed and stil no different,ended up being the friction plate linings disintigrated had a remanufactured clutch in it that i never knew about mayb this could be the problem.

darkrocket

That's normal.... When the clutch is goes out. Duh!!!! We're tslking about when we put a new one in it and still not work. Me I bought new master and slave cyclinders and clutch and still not working. Then biching and complaning to the owner of South bend clutch not working. Then mod it to work. Now go fish.

bumpstart

the master and slave is most often the problem, and often tricky to bleed correctly
when installing new

occasionally you will find rotors have the guts to rip the organic linings from the rivets in a conventional organic disk
- often trapping the bits under the pressure plate
this double thickness trapped under pressure plate prevents disengagement

similar can happen when the cushion springs can be torn from the inside hub section of the disk

with the earlier 8.5 inch clutch, quite often the clutch fork fractures around its pivot dimple
- the fork moves up top, but not a lot happens down below



but, in your instance, if the master and slave prove intact and well bled
then i would blame the occasional hangup on a binding spigot bearing
( often installed without the seal if not mazda supplied )
it may be binding onto the gearbox input shaft , continuing to turn the box despite clutch disengagement

- how do i know?
if you can kill a mazda clutch, i have found all the ways to do it

darkrocket

I know all about that stuff it's just that South bend ralley sport clutches is crap.