My FC consumed my wideband sensor MTX-L
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My FC consumed my wideband sensor MTX-L
I have a Innovate MTX-L wideband that I used for maybe 500km on a daily driven mid-heavily modified car and it slowly got to a point where the sensor was stuck on HTR (heater), recalibrating helped for a few days, but now it won't calibrate property and I just burned through half a tank of gas (30L) for approximately 100km which has never happen before. I read on other forums that this sensor has overheating issues and can crap out of it's ran rich for a long time.
""aren't ran too hot or too rich for a long period of time."
So my question is if there is a sensor that is known to be durable.
""aren't ran too hot or too rich for a long period of time."
So my question is if there is a sensor that is known to be durable.
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Manufacturer of the wideband usually states that it should be about 30 inches from the Turbo.That is about an ideal length anyways.
I got a Wideband in the same spot as you though also.I find that the damn thing just doesn't read right.
I am too lazy and busy..heh,to get a bung put on lower down the down pipe!
I got a Wideband in the same spot as you though also.I find that the damn thing just doesn't read right.
I am too lazy and busy..heh,to get a bung put on lower down the down pipe!
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#9
talking head
sweet FD UIM adapter
.. have my PLX wideband about 12 inches further back at 3 oclock and a 15 degree angle with flow .. AOK
you could just keep replacing the sender,, or you could move to a brand of controller with a soft start,, and no excuses,, on the packet,, or on the net
.. have my PLX wideband about 12 inches further back at 3 oclock and a 15 degree angle with flow .. AOK
you could just keep replacing the sender,, or you could move to a brand of controller with a soft start,, and no excuses,, on the packet,, or on the net
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I need some more feedback :
I bought a heat sink with a new sensor, this makes the sensor live outside the pipe.
would this be sufficient or should I move the bung lower on the pipe along with the heat sink ?
It also may be possible that I had a faulty sensor from the start, I've asked many people and they never heard of a o2 sensor failing in 300-500k because of heat issues.
here is the heat sink:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-A-F-Wideband-O2-Sensor-Heatsink-Heat-Sink-Heat-Sink-Spacer-Bong-/111151320333?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e1228d0d&vxp=mtr
I bought a heat sink with a new sensor, this makes the sensor live outside the pipe.
would this be sufficient or should I move the bung lower on the pipe along with the heat sink ?
It also may be possible that I had a faulty sensor from the start, I've asked many people and they never heard of a o2 sensor failing in 300-500k because of heat issues.
here is the heat sink:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-A-F-Wideband-O2-Sensor-Heatsink-Heat-Sink-Heat-Sink-Spacer-Bong-/111151320333?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e1228d0d&vxp=mtr
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New update:
So I installed the new bung(without the headsink) at least 3 feet away from the turbo as suggested WITH a new sensor, and I got signs of it failing within 10 minutes of driving..........
So I went for a drive to work which takes approx 30 miuntes, right at the end the AF was stuck at 25.0 and quickly I got an E8 code. When I was done work I recalibrate the sensor and drove back home like nothing happen - the car ran great. A few days later I go for a ride and about 30 miuntes in it gets stuck at 25.0 again for about 3 minutes while driving and after it starts reading normally.
2 days later I take the car out again to work - everything seemed good. After work I start the car and the gauge was stuck on HTR (sensor heater) which is the exact same problem that I had with the old sensor when it started failing. I recalibrate it, but after the CAL message popped up on my gauge I got a 25.0 reading and then a 8.5 reading and it kept jumping from 25 to 8.5 I tried recalibrating it again, but no luck I drove home with the gauge jumping from 25 to 8.5.
I have everything correctly setup this time, I don't understand why this one failed in literally 1.5 hours worth of driving (3 days at 30 minutes each), to add the first sensor that I had installed right next to the turbo lasted WAYY longer than this one.
I am running premix as I'm sure most of you are
Edit:
This is pretty much the exact same problem this person is having:
http://my.is/forums/f114/problem-inn...deband-384849/
So I installed the new bung(without the headsink) at least 3 feet away from the turbo as suggested WITH a new sensor, and I got signs of it failing within 10 minutes of driving..........
So I went for a drive to work which takes approx 30 miuntes, right at the end the AF was stuck at 25.0 and quickly I got an E8 code. When I was done work I recalibrate the sensor and drove back home like nothing happen - the car ran great. A few days later I go for a ride and about 30 miuntes in it gets stuck at 25.0 again for about 3 minutes while driving and after it starts reading normally.
2 days later I take the car out again to work - everything seemed good. After work I start the car and the gauge was stuck on HTR (sensor heater) which is the exact same problem that I had with the old sensor when it started failing. I recalibrate it, but after the CAL message popped up on my gauge I got a 25.0 reading and then a 8.5 reading and it kept jumping from 25 to 8.5 I tried recalibrating it again, but no luck I drove home with the gauge jumping from 25 to 8.5.
I have everything correctly setup this time, I don't understand why this one failed in literally 1.5 hours worth of driving (3 days at 30 minutes each), to add the first sensor that I had installed right next to the turbo lasted WAYY longer than this one.
I am running premix as I'm sure most of you are
Edit:
This is pretty much the exact same problem this person is having:
http://my.is/forums/f114/problem-inn...deband-384849/