Microtech Coils vs Stock Coils
08-21-12, 09:41 PM
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Microtech Coils vs Stock Coils
The FB I bought a few weeks ago had S4 13bt swapped in it and is controlled by a MicroTech LT-10s. It does not have the X4 igniter. On the MicroTech site, they say that you must use their coils with the LT-10s, but my car is still running the factory coils. So my question is what is their reasoning, and is my setup wrong?
08-21-12, 11:58 PM
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rotorican85
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the microtech coils are good, but the factory trailing coils from the fc's run just as good if not better. i ran mine with the fc coils for a good while. i saw daylight and went with a haltech using LS coils.....WAYY better!!
08-22-12, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by rotorican85
the microtech coils are good, but the factory trailing coils from the fc's run just as good if not better. i ran mine with the fc coils for a good while. i saw daylight and went with a haltech using LS coils.....WAYY better!!
08-22-12, 01:05 PM
#7
just get a FC coil pack, the LT10s is wired to run them with the factory FC ignitor with that setup.
with an ignition amp the stock FC leading coil is good for 600whp, 450whp without. anything else will be a negligible difference for a chunk more money, LS2 coils will definitely give more spark energy but also are more fragile.
with an ignition amp the stock FC leading coil is good for 600whp, 450whp without. anything else will be a negligible difference for a chunk more money, LS2 coils will definitely give more spark energy but also are more fragile.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 08-22-12 at 01:07 PM.
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08-22-12, 08:42 PM
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Also, which coils are you guys referring to when you say LS truck coils? As far as I know there are no trucks with an LS engine, from the factory at least. I'm not trying to prove any point, just wanting to know which coils everyone is using.
08-23-12, 03:54 AM
#11
Euler,
There's nothing wrong with what you have. Ignition requirements are going to be based on combustion chamber pressure, fuel used, revs, etc. So what is your setup? Boost pressure, turbo used, fuel, aux injection, power level, etc?
If your anything close to stock or mildly modified, if what you have now is working, save your money. If you need to upgrade, the AEM/Mercury Marine IGN-1A coil will fit the bill for probably 99% of the street rotary crowd. Avoid the LS truck coil (the one with the heat sink). They have the ability to auto discharge as a dwell limiting "feature". If/when they do this you lose ignition timing control.
The debate has raged for years, bu the current batch of inductive ignition coils produce spark energy comparable, or higher, than most street capable CDIs all while producing a much longer spark duration. So, same power output capability with better starting and low engine speed performance.
There's nothing wrong with what you have. Ignition requirements are going to be based on combustion chamber pressure, fuel used, revs, etc. So what is your setup? Boost pressure, turbo used, fuel, aux injection, power level, etc?
If your anything close to stock or mildly modified, if what you have now is working, save your money. If you need to upgrade, the AEM/Mercury Marine IGN-1A coil will fit the bill for probably 99% of the street rotary crowd. Avoid the LS truck coil (the one with the heat sink). They have the ability to auto discharge as a dwell limiting "feature". If/when they do this you lose ignition timing control.
The debate has raged for years, bu the current batch of inductive ignition coils produce spark energy comparable, or higher, than most street capable CDIs all while producing a much longer spark duration. So, same power output capability with better starting and low engine speed performance.
08-23-12, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by C. Ludwig
Euler,
There's nothing wrong with what you have. Ignition requirements are going to be based on combustion chamber pressure, fuel used, revs, etc. So what is your setup? Boost pressure, turbo used, fuel, aux injection, power level, etc?
If your anything close to stock or mildly modified, if what you have now is working, save your money. If you need to upgrade, the AEM/Mercury Marine IGN-1A coil will fit the bill for probably 99% of the street rotary crowd. Avoid the LS truck coil (the one with the heat sink). They have the ability to auto discharge as a dwell limiting "feature". If/when they do this you lose ignition timing control.
The debate has raged for years, bu the current batch of inductive ignition coils produce spark energy comparable, or higher, than most street capable CDIs all while producing a much longer spark duration. So, same power output capability with better starting and low engine speed performance.
There's nothing wrong with what you have. Ignition requirements are going to be based on combustion chamber pressure, fuel used, revs, etc. So what is your setup? Boost pressure, turbo used, fuel, aux injection, power level, etc?
If your anything close to stock or mildly modified, if what you have now is working, save your money. If you need to upgrade, the AEM/Mercury Marine IGN-1A coil will fit the bill for probably 99% of the street rotary crowd. Avoid the LS truck coil (the one with the heat sink). They have the ability to auto discharge as a dwell limiting "feature". If/when they do this you lose ignition timing control.
The debate has raged for years, bu the current batch of inductive ignition coils produce spark energy comparable, or higher, than most street capable CDIs all while producing a much longer spark duration. So, same power output capability with better starting and low engine speed performance.
So what is your setup?
Boost pressure? I was told 8psi, but I haven't even checked it. The wiring bothered me enough that I barely drove the car before starting to fix some things.
turbo used? BNR Stage 1
fuel? It has a walbro pump with stock injectors and I just run 91 octane.
aux injection? It has a Snow Performance Stage 1 methanol/water injection kit.
power level? Not sure, 250ish?
etc? The car still has the stock tune that MicroTech gave the PO when he bought the controller. It also has the Innovate Wideband controller. My goal is to redo the majority of the wiring, get the wideband controller/AFR gauge working, and make sure that I know everything is working right. After that I'd like to start working on tuning it and running a little higher than 8psi.
08-24-12, 08:59 PM
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What size injectors would I need to support something around 400rwhp? That will be a while from now but really that's pretty much my goal after all the major issues are sorted.
08-26-12, 10:23 PM
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Could anyone tell me what the ST and CI stand for on the wires in the coil and where the CPU1 originally went? The car was running ok so I'm assuming the wiring was hooked up correctly but I just want to make sure.
09-06-12, 09:41 PM
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I have talked to Nelson at rrrdynotune in Cali and he has told me that with 91-93oct pump gas you will Max at @340-380whp @14-16psi depending on your setup and that's with stock primary and 1600cc secondary injectors. He recommends to just run water on the rotarys as he doesn't seem to see good life out of the motors that run with watermeth injection. he has been doing this for many many years. He has many dyno vids on YouTube. Call him to find out more info, he was very helpful to me and a nice guy. Also if you wanna run more boost he says he sees @150extra whp with race gas @21-22psi :-) other than that on pump your are pretty much maxed out at 14-16psi and will see @340-380whp. That is if you want you motor to last!
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