how do you predict time for a rebuild?
Hiya,
I have a 90 GXL with original motor @ 123,000 miles on it.
I was wondering how you can predict engine failure?
My current mods are: Bonez intake (in cold-air box), Bonez Superflo system, Rotary performance 50mm cat-back, bonez street clutch, MSD Wires, Resoldered ECU, Resoldered CPU,
KYB AGX's with Suspension Tech aprings. I started modding at about 112k miles when my main Cat Converter clogged.
Spirited driving in Vegas. Lately she doesn't want to stay running during cold-start run-up. She starts normally runs up for a few minutes then drops to idle @700 rpm and she dies. But after she has been driven for a lil while , no problems except for an occasional blip during spirited WOT, and of course the nice flame at shift in my rear view mirror.
She gets regular maintenance, and the radiator is about to go (runs pretty hot at the halfway mark, but never peaks over the halfway on the gauge)
Any Ideas? And does anyone have experience with Atkins streetports? Or should I go with a (Gasp) Bridgeport.???
M
Thanx in advance!!
I have a 90 GXL with original motor @ 123,000 miles on it.
I was wondering how you can predict engine failure?
My current mods are: Bonez intake (in cold-air box), Bonez Superflo system, Rotary performance 50mm cat-back, bonez street clutch, MSD Wires, Resoldered ECU, Resoldered CPU,
KYB AGX's with Suspension Tech aprings. I started modding at about 112k miles when my main Cat Converter clogged.
Spirited driving in Vegas. Lately she doesn't want to stay running during cold-start run-up. She starts normally runs up for a few minutes then drops to idle @700 rpm and she dies. But after she has been driven for a lil while , no problems except for an occasional blip during spirited WOT, and of course the nice flame at shift in my rear view mirror.
She gets regular maintenance, and the radiator is about to go (runs pretty hot at the halfway mark, but never peaks over the halfway on the gauge)
Any Ideas? And does anyone have experience with Atkins streetports? Or should I go with a (Gasp) Bridgeport.???
M
Thanx in advance!!
Anyone that could predict it with out the engine actually having a major problem is simply trying to make some $. If the engine is starting to loose compression but still runs well enough as a daily driver then its up to you. I drove my car with low compression on the rear rotor for 2 1/2 years. I would normally run about 12 autocross events and regurally took it to 6000+ rpm. It finally locked up but that was 25,000 miles later.
If you simply want more horsepower then a rebuild is a given. I would highly recommend an aftermarket intake. The factory fuel injection is good but may not show much HP gains on a street-ported engine.
If you car is running a little warm now you should fix it immediately. If you get the engine in the car rebuilt you will want it in the best shape possible, that means taking care of it now before it really overheats. Its much easier and cheaper to rebuild an running engine than a blown up engine. When you eventually get the rebuilt engine you will need to get the cooling correct anyway or the warranty, if any, will be no good if you cook the new engine.
Thats my thoughts about it anyway. Later.
If you simply want more horsepower then a rebuild is a given. I would highly recommend an aftermarket intake. The factory fuel injection is good but may not show much HP gains on a street-ported engine.
If you car is running a little warm now you should fix it immediately. If you get the engine in the car rebuilt you will want it in the best shape possible, that means taking care of it now before it really overheats. Its much easier and cheaper to rebuild an running engine than a blown up engine. When you eventually get the rebuilt engine you will need to get the cooling correct anyway or the warranty, if any, will be no good if you cook the new engine.
Thats my thoughts about it anyway. Later.
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