Dash and Tail light problem
10-18-01, 09:41 PM
#1
Dash and Tail light problem
Dash and tail lights worked only intermittantly for a week or so before going out completely. Not sure how to fix this? I've checked fuses of course. The headlights still work when the switch is on, but the damn dash and tails wont work. Someone said to change out the switch, but I don't think that'll work if the headlights still work. Any Ideas?
thanks
86 rx7
thanks
86 rx7
10-18-01, 09:56 PM
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,213
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had a turn signal light that didn't blink one time bc the bulb was bad. Replaced it and everything was fine. I would check the bulbs too. I guess sometimes these lights are wired serially so when one blows out, the others go dim as well.
10-19-01, 04:21 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Kannappolis, NC
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The bulbs are wired in parallel. Would not be good to have a headlight go out and lose the other one because of it.
So when the switch is on, you have headlights, but no dash and taillights. What about the front side marker lights, front parking lights, glove box light, storage box light, and license plate light?
If all of these are out, then I think its your switch too - the headlights are on a seperate contact of the switch from the body lights and dash.
You can see this on wiring diagram page 50-50 and page 50-54.
So when the switch is on, you have headlights, but no dash and taillights. What about the front side marker lights, front parking lights, glove box light, storage box light, and license plate light?
If all of these are out, then I think its your switch too - the headlights are on a seperate contact of the switch from the body lights and dash.
You can see this on wiring diagram page 50-50 and page 50-54.
10-22-01, 06:25 PM
#4
I had this exact same problem on my 86 GXL about a year ago where the parking lights/interior lights wouldn't come on.
It was the light switch gone bad (burned contact points). I was able to fix it temporarily by wiggling the connection a little, but it's definitely a good idea to get it fixed asap. (replace with rebuilt wiper switch).
If you take the switch out and disconnect it, you might be able to see the burned part...
good luck!
It was the light switch gone bad (burned contact points). I was able to fix it temporarily by wiggling the connection a little, but it's definitely a good idea to get it fixed asap. (replace with rebuilt wiper switch).
If you take the switch out and disconnect it, you might be able to see the burned part...
good luck!
10-26-01, 02:53 PM
#7
Full Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Auburn, Washington
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had the same problem where my light switch burned out but since I'm a bum and can't afford a new switch for the insane amount the dealers want I just used a relay and wired it into my foglight switch. I know it's ghetto that I have to use two switches, one to turn on instrument cluster and driving light and the other for headlights but it works and didn't cost me much.
The switch is all built together so you have to buy the whole piece (headlight/driving light, rear defrost, headlight popup switch) together. The ***** come off from the switch with a little tugging if thats what you're asking.
The switch is all built together so you have to buy the whole piece (headlight/driving light, rear defrost, headlight popup switch) together. The ***** come off from the switch with a little tugging if thats what you're asking.