well there are many different ideas on how to properly break in a rotary engine built from used parts.
i am at 450 miles on my engine. and i am curious as to what to do when i get to 1k, maybe 2k. i been told 3 different things.
so how have you/would you break in your engine. such as when you start boosting. when you start going over 4k rpm. when you start readlining. oil changes. and so on and so forth.

 

I was told and is what I did on my 7, At 500 mi., change oil then again (not sure of this) at 1500-2000 mi., No rpms over 4k or heavy load until after 2000 mi. And mines an N/A.

My 0.02 cents.

 

Heres a great link:

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...p_breakin.html

 

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/breakin.html


-Ted

 

ya. i've read both.
i hit 500 miles today. going to change oil
my turbo is stock though. its very hard NOT to boost but still accellorate safely (getting onto freeway or pulling into traffic) i find it very unsafe to not boost at all. though for the first 250 miles i tried my best.
cant complain about a quick boosting turbo though. i love it.

 

you could tie your waste gate open...

 

A little bit of boost won't hurt anything. Does your engine have new bearings in it? That makes a difference when it comes to breakin.

 

Timing is down
Aftermarket Ignition is tuned down
MBC set to 3 PSI


I am bridgeported, so it's hard to not go to 5k rpm seeing as the driving sucks 1-3k. I think with the increase rev range and the less power used at low RPMs I should be fine.

340 miles so far...

 

800-1000 with new bearings

keep it under 5 #'s if you can

keeping it under 4k is ridiculous

 

i agree. i only have 5-7 lb of boost. but typicaly keeping it at or below 5 isnt a problem.
rarely in 1st i have to go to 5.

i have 600 miles on the engine now.
and yes i do have new bearings, what kind of difference does that make

 

I learned my lesson the hard way and it was heartbreaking. Follow the directions in the links I just printed them out.

I had 460 Miles on my new engine, new rotor housings new end plates lots of money spent on it. I spun the rear bearing pushing it too hard too soon, broke an apex seal and spun the rear stationary gear bearing. In the process ruining the rear rotor, rear rotor housing and eccentric shaft.

So now I had to spring for 2 new rotors (I was using 3mm and now I am back to 2mm) an eccentric shaft and rotor housing among all the bits and pieces needed to put an engine back together including a new set of apex and corner seals.

I will not push this next rebuild for a long time. Lots of little road trips coming up early in the morning before work.

 

You should not have spun a bearing from the situation you describe. Either the bearing was pressed in wrong, or you had some other build problem.

Here is the breakin method we prescribed back at Gotham, and the one I use for my customers at IR Performance:

First 500 miles, revs under 4k and minimal boost
change oil and filter, non-synth
Next 1000 miles, revs under 6k miles and boost under about 0.5 bar
change oil and filter, synth
Get tuned and have fun

I've posted this many many times before. This is assuming new rotor and stat gear bearings, if they are reused then you can be more liberal with the mileage breaks. I've seen an FD with used bearings and about 100 miles get romped on hard----redline pulls through the first four gears, 1 bar boost, etc.

 

I tried to dyno it with 450 miles on it. I revved to 8,500 RPM's in 4th gear, the dyno had a pipe on my muffler with a huge muffler before it left the building. It choked my car to death with back pressure causing it to stall and never start again on the dyno. It did not run lean, it did not detonate, the A/F was 12:1 - 10:1.

My best assumption was I cracked an apex seal and spun the bearing at the same time.

 

methinks something else was going on here besides back pressure.

 

The Motec map I am using was done by Steve Kahn on my car prior to the engine overheat that brought on this rebuild.

I think I was on the dyno about 1000 miles too soon, the engine was still too tight to be spinning up to 8500 RPM's add in the back pressure and I put some stupid stress on the engine it did not need that soon.

The next breaking will last 2000 miles just as described above. When Pettit rebuilt it last time he wanted 1200 miles on it before we dyno'd it.

 

Is there any procedure for breaking in an engine in a car that can't be driven around? For example, perhaps you just put a rebuild in a track only car.

 

Sure, I think it involves numerous redline shifts

 

based off 12b and written in the 1980s