Alex_n/a

iTrader: (1)

hey guys i'm doing a rebuild on my 13b n/a engine

i have removed the engine from the car and have just the block

i don't know if the videos will help but do you guys think a rebuild will be a good idea or is my engine gone judging by the compression test results here are the videos.


first video compression test on leading rotor (closest to front bumper)

second video compression test on trailing rotor (farthest from front bumper)

third video starting up the car and moving in forward on its own power

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NM7018l0izA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3S6w2...eature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LW1_f...eature=channel

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

The engine is gone, but that's why we rebuild. There's no way of telling which parts are usable until tear down. It's possible it could be a stuck seal. At this points there's no harm in trying a little ATF.

Alex_n/a

iTrader: (1)

yeah i did the ATF thing it actually got the car running. sorry here is more details

car was purchased not running (was flooded) after i got it running it starts but don't sound good and i have to keep my foot on the gas or it dies (don't idle) if the engine was over heated would the engine still start i know the piston engines don't start once over heated but this being a rotary engine i'm not sure how it would react.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

If it overheated you could see large consumptions of water, water smoke out the tail pipe, and or separation between the irons and rotor housings. This is what happened to me when I let someone drive my car and they kept driving it after it overheated running it out of water. Based on your videos, you don't have this problem.

Yours is more then likely a bad seal. It will take a rebuild to correct. The challenge is finding out what you have to work with once the engine is opened up. The quickest, and cheapest, fix would be to find and used motor.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

Are you holding down the valve when you do the compression test? Its important because you want to see if you have three even bounces.

Alex_n/a

iTrader: (1)

what i did was have an assistant inside the car holding down the gas pedal all the way down while cranking the motor. but i did notice an uneven bounce. i'm thinking uneven bounces mean bad apex seals right... i wonder do the compression test help tell you what might be bad like really low compression test means bad apex seals and middle compression test like 50 to 90 psi mean just side seals or different seals...

Alex_n/a

iTrader: (1)

thank you for explaining what over heating does to this engines i was worried because some "tuner shops" told me it was over heated when i described my engine problems but they didn't look like they knew about rotories... and i was going to replace it i found an engine 1,100 with ecu and wire harness but it was from an s4 and since i have an s5 and i found someone who would rebuild it for 500$ plus parts decided to just rebuild and i'm getting a free street port as long as i provide templates

farberio

iTrader: (7)

The compression test can tell you what seals are bad, but you need to do the entire test with the relief valve open so the compression can escape from 1 rotor chamber to the next.