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hardwiring fuel pump, pining fuel pump connector

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Old Mar 12, 2015 | 12:07 AM
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hardwiring fuel pump, pining fuel pump connector

So I've decided to hardwire my fuel pump. I did not open up my in tank fuel pump yet, but I wanted my 10 gauge wire to go all the way to the fuel pump. I have a walbro 255 pump. Could I get the pins to redo the connector with 10 gauge wire? Or are there other types of crimp connectors or soldering connectors I can use to go straight to the pump? Were they basic blade connectors? If they are, where can I get ones that have insulation that can withstand fuel?
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Old Mar 12, 2015 | 12:47 AM
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Ok, I did some research and answered my own question. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpn-94-615.
Anyone else is welcome to add if they still want.
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Old Mar 12, 2015 | 09:39 PM
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The trick is the pass through for the positive wire. It needs to be permanently sealed. I looked all over and didn't find anything I liked that was reasonably priced. So I made my own using a -6 an bulkhead connector, I took a piece of hard plastic fuel line and a 1/4" brass screw, a couple plastic washers. I assembled it with JB Weld around the threads of the screw, pressed the screw through the hard plastic fuel line, then pressed that through the fitting. Then tightened brass nuts down on each end with plastic washers insulating it all. Once it cured I was able to fit it through the tank bracket and have a fully insulated hermetically sealed pass through for power to the pump.
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Old Mar 12, 2015 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Vicoor
The trick is the pass through for the positive wire. It needs to be permanently sealed. I looked all over and didn't find anything I liked that was reasonably priced. So I made my own using a -6 an bulkhead connector, I took a piece of hard plastic fuel line and a 1/4" brass screw, a couple plastic washers. I assembled it with JB Weld around the threads of the screw, pressed the screw through the hard plastic fuel line, then pressed that through the fitting. Then tightened brass nuts down on each end with plastic washers insulating it all. Once it cured I was able to fit it through the tank bracket and have a fully insulated hermetically sealed pass through for power to the pump.
my friend actually gave me a pretty nice and simple one. I forgot what is called, a bulk head? Sorry, forgot the technical name. It's got an o ring to seal after drilling a hole, and in the center there some sort of plastic or rubber with 2 holes to feed 10 gauge wire through that should fit snug and seal. It looks like it didn't cost him much and it would work. I can ask him where he got it.
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Old Mar 12, 2015 | 11:43 PM
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this is what my friend gave me. He went with a fuel cell instead of upgrading his stock tank.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ab...FU8Q7AodaXIApA
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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 05:28 AM
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That should work.

I saw those and wasn't confident it would be "seep proof" but I get carried away with details like that.
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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 11:11 AM
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so I finally got my fuel pump out and found out its a walbro gss341 255lph. I'm trying to find the freaking plug that comes with 10ga fuel save wires already on it. Anyone know where I can get it? I found this, Walbro High Performance 000107694 AA E85 Jumper Harness | eBay but I cant find anywhere where it says the gauge of the wire. I also am trying to make sure it uses the same plug as mine. I've got a feeling all the ones they sell are the standard gauge wire that comes in the installation kit.

should I just use a small portion of this supplied wire it comes with? I need to measure the thickness, but im pretty sure its smaller than 10 gauge
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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 11:48 PM
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I decided to just go with standard blade connectors. Is there a special type I need for the fuel, or are standard blade connectors ok?
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Old Mar 14, 2015 | 09:58 AM
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Why are you hardwiring your fuel pump?

10 gauge wire is massive overkill for any fuel pump which will fit within the FC pump bracket.
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Old Mar 14, 2015 | 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Why are you hardwiring your fuel pump?

10 gauge wire is massive overkill for any fuel pump which will fit within the FC pump bracket.
I don't mind overkill, but yes it is. I will be tuning my car as soon as my ms2 conversion is complete and few other small things. I did my fuel pressure regulator already, and I figured if I'm going to pay for dyno time. I better hardwire the pump before I hit the dyno, rather than after, and possibley change the afr slightly.

I bought MIL 16878/4 wire. Mcmaster carr said it was the chemical resistant wire. There was also a 76d type hw. the 1687/4 description fit my application.

I was not able to find the type of connectors to pin my original walbro plug, So I am thinking of just using insulated blade connectors. I don't know if anyone is knowledgeable about the insulation on types of insulation used on crimp on blade connectors
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Old Mar 15, 2015 | 10:12 AM
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Racetronix sells connectors compatible with Walbros.

They also sell awesome bulkhead connectors which you can use to properly pass wire through the pump flange.

12 gauge is far easier to work with in this case and still overkill. Going thicker has no real benefit other than making it difficult to pass through the flange, difficult to find connectors, and adding weight/cost.
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Racetronix sells connectors compatible with Walbros.

They also sell awesome bulkhead connectors which you can use to properly pass wire through the pump flange.

12 gauge is far easier to work with in this case and still overkill. Going thicker has no real benefit other than making it difficult to pass through the flange, difficult to find connectors, and adding weight/cost.
I will check out racetronics. I should have bought the 12 gauge! Oh well, I jumped the gun. I'll see how much trouble it is to return the stuff I ordered
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Old Mar 18, 2015 | 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Why are you hardwiring your fuel pump?

10 gauge wire is massive overkill for any fuel pump which will fit within the FC pump bracket.
Hey Aaron. I decided to go with 14 gauge wire. The only fuse holder that I saw going 14 gauge only went up to 20 amps. I know its not necessary, but I was thinking about keeping everything the same gauge as much as possible to keep it clean. Also the only fuse holders I was able to find come pre wired. The fuse holder that goes 25-30 amp comes in 12 gauge. Not the biggest deal, but I want to try to do it nice and clean
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