flywheel nut
#1
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flywheel nut
Is there anything else other than the special tool from mazda to remove the rear nut holding on the flywheel.
86 N/a
........thanks
...........chad
86 N/a
........thanks
...........chad
#2
Open up! Search Warrant!
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you can use a 2 1/8 inch socket and a long *** breaker bar like the one in my picture on my web page (see below), or you can use a torque multiplier. The are expensive. www.mazdatrix.com has a tool for it. Scroll down to the bottom of the menu page and click on special tools. Its a long bar with a socket end welded on.
#3
Weird Cat Man
Your best bets are a heavy duty impact wrench or a BIG breaker bar. Sometimes you need a cheater bar or pipe slipped over that too.
My first engine I did I couldn't get it off until my wrench was about 7 feet long. I just hung on the end of the 7 foot bar and it popped off... I fell on the floor hehehe.
Brian
My first engine I did I couldn't get it off until my wrench was about 7 feet long. I just hung on the end of the 7 foot bar and it popped off... I fell on the floor hehehe.
Brian
#4
Old [Sch|F]ool
On the last core engine I pulled apart, somebody (Hi djchunter!) used a HUGE impact gun and heavily overtorqued the nut.
Normally I have this 1.5" by 6' long angle iron that I bolt to two of the pressure plate holes to stand on, slip the floor jack handle on the breaker bar, and off the nut comes.
Not this one. Bent my angle iron.
So I built another angle iron holder. Bent that one too, but not before bending my breaker bar.
So, after scratching our heads, we had an idea. Bolt BOTH pieces of angle iron to the flywheel, use the breaker bar as the "stopper", and use the angle irons (angles iron?) to turn the engine over. With two people killing their backs, one of whom was standing on the engine to keep it from simply picking up off the ground, the nut popped loose.
But they're normally much easier than that.
A 1/2" impact usually gets em loose, if you have one.
Normally I have this 1.5" by 6' long angle iron that I bolt to two of the pressure plate holes to stand on, slip the floor jack handle on the breaker bar, and off the nut comes.
Not this one. Bent my angle iron.
So I built another angle iron holder. Bent that one too, but not before bending my breaker bar.
So, after scratching our heads, we had an idea. Bolt BOTH pieces of angle iron to the flywheel, use the breaker bar as the "stopper", and use the angle irons (angles iron?) to turn the engine over. With two people killing their backs, one of whom was standing on the engine to keep it from simply picking up off the ground, the nut popped loose.
But they're normally much easier than that.
A 1/2" impact usually gets em loose, if you have one.
#5
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Thanks guys I tried everything else I cant get it off so I think I'm going to have to buy the 54 mm socket and a huge breaker bar
........chad
oh and peejay its just pronounced angle iron wether its plural or not lol
........chad
oh and peejay its just pronounced angle iron wether its plural or not lol
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#10
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The flywheel is easy to pop off. Just put a crow-bar behind it, position the fulcrum on an engine stud (the ones that hold the engine together), and bang it with a hammer. If it refuses to pop off, re-install the big nut so it's flush with the threads. Re-position the crow-bar (pry bar). Bang the crowbar so it's snug, and then whack the big nut like hell with a large hammer. Also, a nice thick piece (1" of bettter) of iron with 3 holes drilled in it, and the center one tapped (weld-on a nut?) works great as a flywheel popper.
You can use the rear engine hoist mount as a flywheel stopper. Take it, flip it around, use a long spare 14mm bolt and two large washers. mount it to the reverse side where it originally was. Try it; it's every bit as good as an actually flywheel lock.
If you don't have access to large impact guns, large sockets, or other tools, just use a chisel and a hammer. It'll take some time, and you WILL need a new nut, but it works. Air-hammers work well too. Personally, I heat it up with an acetylene torch (glowing hot; be careful not to scorch the e-shaft or the pilot bearing) and break it off with just a 3' long breaker bar.
Want another tip? How about a really simple way to pull the pilot bearing? Okay, load some soaking-wet paper towels into the hole. Take a dowel that fits nicely and hit it fast and hard. If that doesn't work, take a piece of all-thread, two nuts, and a washer that would normally fit inside the pilot bearing hole (not the pilot bearing!). Grind two sides of it down so it will slide-inside the pilot bearing. Now, put your nut on the all-thread, and the washer behind that. Slide the washer in at an angle, and hold it there. Put a deep-well socket (I used a 13/16" sparkplug socket) over the all thread, and put the last nut on the top of the socket. Hold the end of the all-thread with a pair of pliers, and crank the nut down with a wrench. Voila, it comes out as easily as it goes in.
You can use the rear engine hoist mount as a flywheel stopper. Take it, flip it around, use a long spare 14mm bolt and two large washers. mount it to the reverse side where it originally was. Try it; it's every bit as good as an actually flywheel lock.
If you don't have access to large impact guns, large sockets, or other tools, just use a chisel and a hammer. It'll take some time, and you WILL need a new nut, but it works. Air-hammers work well too. Personally, I heat it up with an acetylene torch (glowing hot; be careful not to scorch the e-shaft or the pilot bearing) and break it off with just a 3' long breaker bar.
Want another tip? How about a really simple way to pull the pilot bearing? Okay, load some soaking-wet paper towels into the hole. Take a dowel that fits nicely and hit it fast and hard. If that doesn't work, take a piece of all-thread, two nuts, and a washer that would normally fit inside the pilot bearing hole (not the pilot bearing!). Grind two sides of it down so it will slide-inside the pilot bearing. Now, put your nut on the all-thread, and the washer behind that. Slide the washer in at an angle, and hold it there. Put a deep-well socket (I used a 13/16" sparkplug socket) over the all thread, and put the last nut on the top of the socket. Hold the end of the all-thread with a pair of pliers, and crank the nut down with a wrench. Voila, it comes out as easily as it goes in.
#12
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yeah when you are hitting the flywheel nut to try to get the flywheel off and you damaged the nut where can you buy another one and what exactly would i have to replace if i damaged the stud the nuts goes on
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