I'm new to the rotary world and need some help. I purchased a 1987 fc n/a as a project car and have fixed all apparent problems that would keep it from starting (starter, spark plugs, etc.) but to no avail. It cranks and sputters sometimes but doesn't start. I've tried all the deflooding techniques and nothing works! I've checked everything that I know of. It all seems to be functioning. Any advice is appreciated! Side note: there is a slow coolant leak, emissions system removed.

 

Are you sure the fuel pump is working properly?

 

Hmmm I haven't check that, but fuel is reaching the spark plugs, as they were slightly moist and smelled of gas when I removed them. Also the injectors were getting fuel. Does this mean the pump could still be working? I'll look into this asap.

 

Yes. Though the plugs should not be wet. They could be fouled and either need to be dried out or possibly replaced. You could pull the circuit opening relay, disabling the fuel pump, and spray 1 to 2 seconds of starter fluid into the intake and try getting the car to start. If it starts for a brief moment w/the use of the spray then plug the relay back in and try to start it in a normal fashion.

If the engine compression is too low then it could preclude the car from starting up. To increase compression a teaspoon of oil injected into the rotor housings followed by rotating the rotors by hand followed by starting the car is a process which might work as well.

 

So I tried unplugging the circuit opening relay, spraying starter fluid, and starting, but still nothing. I'll look into the compression now I suppose. :/
Would a pull start be of any benefit or is it something else?

 

You might want to recheck spark for the car should have at least started for a few moments w/the starter fluid. I would suspect fouled plugs.

 

I replaced the spark plugs yesterday with brand new NGKs, could they already be fouled up?

 

If they were wet then yes. Just pull a plug and rest it against the strut tower mount and see if there is spark. Since the leading plugs are required to start the car you should test those first and see what results you get. Also, you could check the voltage w/key to on at the Brown/White wire at an engine sensor such as the TPS or pressure/boost sensor. It should measure close to 5 volts. If it is too low the car will not start.

 

This small coolant leak, where does the coolant end up?
Dave

 

Ok I'll check the plugs and voltage then. The leak drips off around the oil pan from what I've seen, typically the corners of it if I'm not mistaken.

 

If by chance the leak was also internal then that could preclude the engine from starting.

 

UPDATE: I checked the spark plugs, all were good. Measured voltage to TPS, 5 volts. I then did a compression test from the leading spark plug holes. Bottom right measured about 76 psi. The bottom left, barely above 0. I'm fearing the worst. Does this mean it's time for an engine swap?

 

Or rebuild (which you should have a better grasp of what's going in as opposed to a swap).

 

if it is NA, try pulling off the exhaust and working the apex seals in the bad rotor with the tip of a wooden dowel

it is common enough for motors having sat too long to carbonise and lock the apex seals


usually a tow start will get the good rotor going,, and the bad one comes on song after a few seconds of revs

 

The guy I bought it from pull started it, and it fired up, so maybe I'll try that.

 

If he had to pull start it to get it going

A) i would've been scared
B) i hope you got a steal on the car

Put some oil in the plug holes first to hopefully help loosen a carboned apex seal before pull starting it, and if it does fire, let it run up to normal temp than check compression again

 

If you get it running make sure to run it threw redline acouple times to clean it up

 

I'd be leary about that with a possible dead rotor unless you can actually "hear" the other rotor come to life could destroy the housing, if it isn't already

 

that's what I ment, if your running on both rotors after the engine is a running temp and no longer warming up go for a good drive, I've had this happen acouple times the second rotor comes on and then you clear the carbon out.

 

UPDATE: I pull started the car and it only runs when I am actively revving and giving the engine gas. The good part is the engine felt responsive and Im going to do another compression test later. The bad part is that as soon as I let off the gas below 2000 Rpms it will die, and will not idle at all.

 

A vacuum leak can cause one to fight w/the engine to keep it running.

 

The previous owners disconnected a vaccuum line to throttle body leaving the first set of butterfly valves wide open all the time. Not sure how to fix it. I'll post a pic of it tomorrow.

 

Still a sign of a dead rotor, was it smoking? And even with 1 dead rotor, if you've never drove a rotary before, 1 rotor can make it sound like the engine is running awesome lol. If you can, do the compression test again with it hot, of you get better readings (doubtful) than it'd be time to look for a vacuum leak

 

It was getting dark so I couldn't see the smoke, but I could definently smell something sort of like oil burning, or maybe just clearing out the carbon since it was sitting for a while? I'll give the compression test another go too.

 

Decided to use this opportunity for a TII swap! Thanks for all the help.